Here is the clear answer that many sites get wrong.
Indian travellers need no permit to travel through Kinnaur and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. Only foreign visitors need a permit, and only for the inner belt that runs close to the Tibet border, roughly the stretch between Jangi and Sumdo. A foreign visitor gets this Inner Line Permit at the district office in Reckong Peo or Kaza, or through a registered agent, and usually needs two or more people. The main circuit is open to everyone.
Who needs a permit
- Indian citizens: no permit for Kinnaur or Spiti. You drive the whole circuit freely.
- Foreign visitors: a permit, but only for the inner belt near the border. For the rest of the route you need nothing special.
Indians need none (please read this)
Many websites try to sell Indians a Kinnaur or Spiti permit. You do not need one. As an Indian traveller you can drive the full Shimla to Kinnaur to Spiti to Manali circuit, including Kaza, Kibber, Tabo and Nako, without any permit. If a site asks an Indian to pay for a Kinnaur or Spiti permit, walk away.
The inner belt, in plain words
The reason a permit exists at all is the border. A short inner belt of the road runs close to the Tibet border, roughly from Jangi through Akpa and Pooh to Sumdo. Because this belt is a protected area, a foreign visitor needs an Inner Line Permit to pass through it. Indians pass through freely. Once you cross into Spiti proper, the permit belt is behind you.
How foreigners get the permit, step by step
If you are a foreign visitor, get the permit before you enter the inner belt. You have two easy ways:
- At the district office. Go to the Sub Divisional Magistrate office in Reckong Peo, in Kinnaur, or in Kaza, in Spiti, with your passport, your visa and photos, and get the permit the same day in most cases.
- Through a registered agent. A Himachal travel agent can arrange it for you, which is easier if you are on a tour.
Many areas ask for two or more foreign visitors together. Carry your passport and the permit, because they are checked at the border check posts.
The route
The classic loop runs from Shimla up through Kinnaur, along the Sutlej, to Spiti, and out over the high passes to Manali, or the same in reverse. You pass old villages, the Tabo and Dhankar monasteries, Nako lake, and the high hamlet of Kibber. It is a long, high, slow road, and the permit belt is only one short part of it.
Season, so you plan the right months
The Kinnaur side is open for much of the year, but the high road from Spiti to Manali over Kunzum La is usually open only from about June to October, when the snow clears. Winter cuts Spiti off except for the long Kinnaur road, and even that can close in heavy snow. Plan the full loop for the summer and early autumn.
Common mistakes to avoid
- The biggest mistake is an Indian traveller paying for a permit they do not need. The next is a foreign visitor forgetting the inner belt permit and being stopped at a check post. Do not plan the Spiti to Manali crossing outside the open months, when the pass is shut. Do not travel the inner belt as a lone foreigner where a group is required.
Questions people ask
Do Indians need a permit for Kinnaur or Spiti?
No. Indian travellers need no permit for the whole circuit.
Do foreigners need a permit?
Yes, but only for the inner belt near the Tibet border, roughly Jangi to Sumdo.
Where do foreigners get it?
At the Sub Divisional Magistrate office in Reckong Peo or Kaza, or through a registered agent.
Do foreigners have to travel in a group?
Many areas ask for two or more foreign visitors together. Confirm for your dates.
When is the full loop open?
The Spiti to Manali crossing is usually open from about June to October. The Kinnaur road is open longer.