Port Blair Travel Guide
The comfortable window is about October to April , when the seas are calm, the diving visibility is good and the ferries run reliably. The monsoon from May to September is...
When to visit Port Blair and the Andamans
The comfortable window is about October to April, when the seas are calm, the diving visibility is good and the ferries run reliably. The monsoon from May to September is cheaper but rougher.
- October to April: the calm-sea seasonThis is the prime window: settled weather, clear water for snorkelling and scuba, and dependable ferry sailings. December and January are the busiest and priciest, so book flights, rooms and the Havelock ferry well ahead if you come then.
- May to September: the monsoonThe southwest monsoon brings heavier rain, rougher seas and the occasional ferry cancellation, and underwater visibility drops. It is greener, quieter and cheaper, and you can still have a good trip, but build slack into your plan for a weather day.
- Sea state matters more than rainOn the islands what shapes your day is the sea, not the shower. A passing tropical downpour clears fast, but a rough crossing can delay or cancel a ferry, so keep your inter-island legs early in the trip in case you need to reshuffle.
- Pack for sun and insectsWhatever the month, carry strong sunscreen, sunglasses and a good insect repellent; the WayToIndia travel desk rates citronella-based repellent against the island mosquitoes. A small torch is genuinely useful after dark on the quieter islands.
Plan the trip around the calm October to April window if comfort and diving visibility matter, and around your budget if they do not. Either way, the make-or-break detail is not the season but the ferries: they sail only in daylight and mostly stop by the early afternoon, so the day you arrive in Port Blair is a Port Blair day, not a day to chase an onward boat. Get that one habit right and the weather rarely spoils an Andaman trip.
How to reach Port Blair, and the ferries onward
Almost everyone flies into Veer Savarkar International Airport from the mainland, then sails on to Havelock or Neil. The ferry is the trip's most important booking.
- Fly into Port Blair (IXZ)Veer Savarkar International Airport, about 4 km south of town, is the only commercial airport in the islands, with direct flights from Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi, Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Visakhapatnam. Chennai and Kolkata are the shortest hops, roughly about 2 to 2.5 hours, and frequencies rise in the October to March peak.
- The Havelock ferry, your key bookingFrom Port Blair, the government ferry from Phoenix Bay Jetty costs roughly about 600 to 950 rupees for non-islanders and must be applied for a day or two ahead. The air-conditioned private cruises (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) run about 900 to 3,500 rupees by class, are faster and comfier, and sell out in season, so book online in advance.
- Ferries sail in daylight onlyInter-island ferries run only by day and most depart by the early afternoon, with the last Port Blair to Havelock or Neil sailings typically around 2 pm to 2:30 pm. Never plan an onward ferry for your arrival day; spend the first night in Port Blair and sail rested the next morning.
- The ship from the mainlandA government passenger ship runs between Chennai, Kolkata or Visakhapatnam and Port Blair, taking roughly three to four days each way. It is cheap and an adventure, but slow and weather-dependent with limited sailings, so most travellers fly and keep the ship as a curiosity.
Fly into Chennai or Kolkata (via Delhi or a Gulf hub), then take the short hop to Port Blair. Most foreign nationals no longer need a Restricted Area Permit for the tourist islands and just show a passport at Immigration on arrival; see the overseas section for the current rules and the exceptions.
Fly into Chennai, Kolkata or Bengaluru, then connect to Port Blair. There are no international flights into the islands despite the airport's name, so you always route through the mainland.
Fly direct to Port Blair from Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi and other metros. The shortest, cheapest hops are usually from Chennai and Kolkata; book early for the December and January peak.
Cellular Jail, Ross Island and the sights of Port Blair
Port Blair's heart is the Cellular Jail and its evening show, with Ross Island, North Bay and the nearby beaches filling a full day. A couple of closed days are worth knowing first.
- The Cellular Jail National MemorialThe sombre colonial prison where freedom fighters were exiled is the one unmissable sight, now a national memorial and museum. It is open about 9 am to 5 pm and closed on Mondays and national holidays, with a lunch break around 12:30 pm to 1:30 pm and last entry by about 3:15 pm. Entry is about 30 rupees for Indian visitors and about 100 rupees for foreign nationals, with a video-camera fee of around 200 rupees.
- The Light and Sound ShowIn the jail courtyard each evening, a moving narration tells the prisoners' story. It runs every evening except Mondays and national holidays; the Hindi show is at about 5:50 pm and 7:50 pm, and the English show is commonly at about 6:50 pm on Wednesdays and Fridays (reconfirm the day, as schedules are revised). Book ahead on the Andaman Tourism site in peak season.
- Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep)A short ferry from Aberdeen Jetty reaches the old British administrative capital, now romantic ruins reclaimed by the jungle and deer. It is closed on Wednesdays; entry is about 30 rupees and the ferry roughly about 75 rupees and up. Go late afternoon for the best light and the on-site show.
- North Bay and the town beachesNorth Bay, reached by boat, is the spot near Port Blair for glass-bottom boats, snorkelling and beginner water sports over coral. Corbyn's Cove is the town's own palm-fringed beach, and Chidiya Tapu, about 25 km south, is the classic sunset point with birdlife and forest.
The single thing that breaks a tight Port Blair day is arriving at a shut gate. The Cellular Jail is closed on Mondays and national holidays, and Ross Island is closed on Wednesdays. Plan the jail and its evening show for any day except Monday, save Ross Island for a day other than Wednesday, and keep the early afternoon free since that is when the jail breaks for lunch and the last island ferries leave.
Signature experiences in and around Port Blair
Beyond the jail, the Andamans are about the water: scuba, snorkelling, sunsets and the slow ferry hop out to the famous beaches. Here is how to do them well.
- Try scuba diving, even as a beginnerA guided try dive (Discover Scuba) needs no certification and typically costs about 3,500 to 5,500 rupees, with certified and boat dives higher. Havelock is the diving hub, but you can get a first taste off North Bay near Port Blair. Use a recognised dive centre and check the gear and the briefing.
- Snorkel over the coralSnorkelling trips start from about 2,000 rupees and are the easy way to see the reef without diving. Havelock's Elephant Beach and the North Bay reefs are the usual spots. Do not touch or stand on coral, alive or dead; it is fragile and protected, and damaging it is an offence.
- The Light and Sound Show at the jailThe evening show in the Cellular Jail courtyard is the most affecting hour in Port Blair, the prison's history told in the dark with light and sound. Choose a Hindi evening or one of the English-show days and arrive a little early for a good seat.
- Sunset at Chidiya TapuAbout 25 km south of town, Chidiya Tapu is the local sunset spot, a quiet headland of forest, birdlife and a long view west. It pairs well with a slow afternoon and is a gentler alternative to the busier town beach.
- Ross Island and North Bay by boatA half-day boat circuit takes in the haunting ruins of Ross Island and the coral and water sports of North Bay. Mind the Wednesday closure on Ross, agree the boat price in advance, and carry water and sun protection.
- The slow ferry to Havelock and NeilThe crossing itself is part of the experience: blue water, flying fish and the islands rising ahead. Book the ferry ahead, take the early sailing, and give Havelock and Neil at least a night each rather than a rushed day trip.
If you do only one thing slowly, make it a morning in the water, a try dive or a snorkel over living coral, and one evening at the Light and Sound Show. The reef and the show are what people remember long after the resort and the transfers fade. Give the water an unhurried morning when the sea is calmest, keep the show for an evening you are not catching a ferry, and the Andamans open up in a way a packed itinerary never allows.
Where to stay in Port Blair, and how to split the islands
Most travellers spend a night or two in Port Blair around the jail and the airport, then move their stay to Havelock and Neil for the beaches. Here is how to divide it.
- Port Blair: the practical baseStay in or near Port Blair for the first and last nights, close to the airport and the jetties. It is a working town rather than a beach resort, so treat it as the gateway: do the jail, the show and a sight or two, then sail on. Aberdeen Bazaar is the central area for hotels and eating.
- Havelock (Swaraj Dweep): the main beach stayHavelock has the famous beaches (Radhanagar among them), the best diving and the widest choice of resorts, from backpacker huts to high-end stays. Give it at least two nights. Book early in peak season, as the good places fill fast.
- Neil (Shaheed Dweep): the quieter islandSmaller and slower than Havelock, with pretty beaches, natural bridges and a gentle pace. One to two nights suits it, often paired with Havelock on the same trip since the inter-island ferry links the two.
- How long for the whole tripMost first-timers find about six to seven days (six nights) the comfortable length to cover the Port Blair, Havelock and Neil triangle without rushing the ferries. Four to five days is the workable minimum; less than that and the sailings eat your time.
Because the ferries sail only in daylight and stop by the early afternoon, you almost always need a Port Blair night on arrival and another before your flight out. Plan your stay so you land, overnight in Port Blair, sail to Havelock the next morning, and return to Port Blair the day before you fly. Trying to fly out the same day you sail back from Havelock is how people miss flights when the sea turns.
Andaman costs and a realistic daily budget
Andaman is dearer than mainland beach trips because everything ships in and the ferries and activities add up. Here is what the main things cost so you can plan.
- The big-ticket itemsYour two largest costs are the mainland flight and the resorts. After that, the Havelock ferry is about 600 to 950 rupees government or about 900 to 3,500 rupees private each way, and a beginner scuba dive is about 3,500 to 5,500 rupees, so water sports and ferries are the spend that adds up.
- The cheap fixed-price sightsThe Cellular Jail is about 30 rupees to enter, the Light and Sound Show commonly about 300 rupees per adult online, and Ross Island about 30 rupees plus a ferry of roughly about 75 rupees and up. These set, sourced prices are a useful anchor against overcharging.
- A rough daily on-ground budgetExcluding your flight and room, plan on about 1,500 to 2,500 rupees a day for a careful traveller using government ferries and simple food, and about 4,000 rupees and up for a comfortable day with a private ferry leg, a dive or a boat trip and resort meals.
- Carry cash, ATMs are limitedPort Blair has ATMs and card-friendly hotels, but on Havelock and Neil cash machines are few and can run dry, and signal trouble breaks card and UPI payments. Draw enough cash in Port Blair for the islands and keep some in reserve.
The single habit that controls an Andaman budget is to decide the ferry class in advance: the government ferry at about 600 to 950 rupees saves real money over the private cruises at about 900 to 3,500 rupees, but it must be applied for a day or two ahead and sells out, so the saving only works if you plan early. Book the cheaper boat ahead where you can, keep the private cruise for legs you cannot risk missing, and you spend on the diving and the beaches instead of on last-minute fares.
Practical logistics: ferries, SIM, money and getting around
The small things that make an Andaman trip smooth, from the ferry-booking routine to the patchy mobile signal, ATMs and local transport.
- The ferry-booking routineBook private cruises online in advance, and apply for government ferry tickets a day or two before sailing rather than on the day. Carry a printout and a photo ID, reach the jetty early, and keep your onward legs flexible in case the sea turns. This routine is the backbone of a smooth trip.
- Signal and SIM, set expectationsMobile and internet coverage is patchy and slow, best in Port Blair and weaker on Havelock and Neil. Many visitors find postpaid SIMs work better than prepaid. Download offline maps, tell someone your plan before you sail, and treat the islands as a place to disconnect.
- Money and ATMsPort Blair is fine for ATMs and cards; the smaller islands are not, and card or UPI payments fail when the signal drops. Draw cash in Port Blair before you cross, and keep small notes for autos, jetties and beach shacks.
- Getting aroundIn Port Blair, autos and hired cars cover the sights; agree fares first. On Havelock, scooters and bikes are popular for getting to the beaches, so carry your driving licence if you mean to rent, and remember many resorts lend a torch for the dark lanes after sunset.
The WayToIndia travel desk's standard island advice: keep photocopies and phone photos of your tickets, ID and any permit, and note down emergency numbers and your resort's address before you lose signal. On islands where the network drops without warning, a paper copy of your ferry booking and a written address get you further than a phone you cannot connect.
Safety, the island rules, and staying well
Andaman is a safe, gentle destination, but the sea, the sun and a few strict local rules deserve respect. A little awareness keeps the trip happy and lawful.
- Respect the sea and the swim flagsSwim only in safe zones and heed the lifeguard flags; some beaches have currents, and water sports should be done with licensed operators and proper briefings. If a ferry or boat is cancelled for weather, take that seriously rather than pushing on.
- The alcohol and beach rulesAlcohol is sold in Andaman, but drinking it in public places, on ferries and on the beaches is not allowed and can bring heavy fines. Keep any drink to your hotel or resort, and never carry it open on a boat or a beach.
- The plastic ban and the coralPlastic carry-bags are banned across the islands, with fines that can run to around 1,00,000 rupees, so carry a cloth bag and a reusable bottle. Do not touch, stand on or collect coral or shells; the reefs are protected and fragile.
- Sun, mosquitoes and healthThe tropical sun is fierce, so use strong sunscreen and stay hydrated, and use a citronella-based repellent against the island mosquitoes. Medical facilities are concentrated in Port Blair, so carry your regular medicines and a basic kit when you sail to the smaller islands.
Parts of the Andamans are protected tribal reserves, home to communities that the law and basic decency keep off-limits to tourists. Do not attempt to visit, photograph or make contact with these communities or their islands; it is illegal, unsafe and deeply wrong. Stick to the islands open for tourism, follow your operator's guidance, and travel as a respectful guest in a fragile place.
Andaman for every kind of traveller, and on access
Andaman suits very different visitors in different ways. Here is what it offers you and the one tip that matters for each, including how a senior crosses to the islands comfortably.
- Couples and honeymoonersThe islands are a classic honeymoon: quiet beaches, sunsets and good resorts on Havelock and Neil. Give the beaches the time, take a private ferry for the comfort, and keep Port Blair to the bookends of the trip.
- Families with childrenEasy and rewarding, with the jail's show, glass-bottom boats at North Bay and gentle beaches. Mind the ferry timings with young children, carry snacks and water for the crossings, and pick calm-water spots for first swims.
- Senior travellers and on accessibilityVery doable with planning. Take the comfortable private cruises rather than the government ferry, choose the calm October to April season for steadier seas, mind the jetty steps and the boarding, and keep the days unhurried. Port Blair sights involve some walking and steps, so pace them.
- Scuba divers and snorkellersAmong India's best diving, centred on Havelock with clear water from October to April. Beginners can start with a try dive; certified divers should pre-book boat dives. Always use a recognised centre and protect the reef.
- Solo travellersGenerally safe and friendly, with an easy backpacker scene on Havelock. The usual precautions apply, plan around the ferries since you have no one to split a missed-boat scramble with, and tell your resort your plan before you sail given the patchy signal.
- Government LTC travellersPort Blair is a popular LTC trip. The rules require an approved carrier on the permitted sector, so book the correct airline for your entitlement and keep boarding passes and tickets for your claim. Plan the Port Blair nights and the ferry legs as above.
A suggested Andaman itinerary from Port Blair
How to shape six to seven days so the ferries work for you and you get the jail, the diving and the best beaches without a rush.
- Day one: arrive in Port BlairLand, settle in, and use the afternoon for the Cellular Jail (any day but Monday), staying for the evening Light and Sound Show. Do not try to sail onward today; the last ferries have left and the sea-state can shift.
- Day two: sail to HavelockTake an early ferry to Havelock, check in, and spend the afternoon on Radhanagar Beach or resting. Book your dive or snorkel for the next morning when the water is calmest.
- Days three and four: Havelock and NeilDive or snorkel at Elephant Beach, then either give Havelock a second slow day or hop to Neil for its quieter beaches and natural bridges. Keep the inter-island ferry booked ahead.
- Days five to seven: back to Port Blair and homeSail back to Port Blair with a night in hand before your flight, using the spare time for Ross Island (not Wednesday), North Bay or Chidiya Tapu's sunset. Fly out on the last day, never the same day you cross back.
The single thing that wrecks an Andaman plan is treating the ferries like buses. They sail only in daylight, mostly leave by the early afternoon, sell out in season, and can be cancelled by weather. Build the itinerary around the crossings first: a Port Blair night on arrival, the Havelock ferry booked a day or two ahead, a buffer night back in Port Blair before your flight. Slot the jail, the diving and the beaches into that frame and the trip runs smoothly.
The real questions travellers ask about Andaman
Straight answers to the questions that come up again and again on traveller forums, so you arrive already knowing the score.
- How many days do I need?About six to seven days (six nights) is the comfortable length for the Port Blair, Havelock and Neil triangle. Four to five days is the workable minimum, and anything shorter is largely spent on ferries. Give the beaches the time and keep Port Blair to the start and end.
- Government ferry or private cruise?The government ferry is cheaper, about 600 to 950 rupees, but must be applied for a day or two ahead and is less comfortable. The private cruises (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) cost about 900 to 3,500 rupees, are faster and air-conditioned, and sell out fast in season. Pre-book either way.
- Do foreign nationals need a permit?Andaman is officially a Restricted Area, but since a Ministry of Home Affairs relaxation in 2018 most foreign tourists no longer need a Restricted Area Permit for the main tourist islands; you simply show your passport at Immigration on arrival at Port Blair and may stay up to about 45 days. Citizens of or origin in Afghanistan, China and Pakistan still need a RAP with prior Ministry of Home Affairs approval, so check your nationality's position before you fly.
- Is one day enough for Port Blair?One full day and night covers the Cellular Jail, the evening show and a sight like Ross Island or Corbyn's Cove. You will likely have a second Port Blair night anyway, before your flight out, so save North Bay or Chidiya Tapu for then.
- Can I carry or drink alcohol?Alcohol is sold in Andaman, but drinking it in public, on ferries or on beaches is not allowed and brings heavy fines. If you carry it to Havelock, keep it sealed in checked baggage, not hand luggage, and drink only at your hotel or resort.
- Is the signal really that bad?Yes, plan for it. Coverage is patchy and slow, best in Port Blair and weaker on the islands, and it knocks out card and UPI payments too. Download offline maps, carry cash, and tell people your plan before you sail. Treat it as part of the island's charm.
Planning Andaman from abroad: the permit and the basics
Andaman is one of India's great beach and diving destinations, and the only real homework for a foreign visitor is the Restricted Area Permit and the patchy connectivity. Both are easy once you know the rules.
- The Restricted Area Permit, current positionAndaman is officially a Restricted Area, but a Ministry of Home Affairs relaxation in 2018 lifted the Restricted Area Permit requirement for about 30 notified islands, including the main tourist islands (Port Blair, Havelock, Neil, Baratang, Long Island and others). Most foreign tourists now simply show a passport at the Immigration counter on arrival at Port Blair airport or seaport, with the permitted tourist stay capped at about 45 days. Carry your passport and visa and keep photocopies, and note that hotels must file your details (Form C) with the Foreigners Registration Officer.
- The special-approval nationalitiesThe 2018 relaxation does not cover everyone: citizens of or those of origin in Afghanistan, China and Pakistan still require a Restricted Area Permit with prior Ministry of Home Affairs approval before visiting, and Myanmar nationals still need a RAP for Mayabunder and Diglipur. Tribal reserves, sanctuaries and reserved forests also stay off-limits without separate permission. If this affects you, sort the approval well before you fly, and confirm the current position on official sources.
- Route through the mainlandThere are no international flights into Port Blair despite the airport's name, so fly into Chennai or Kolkata (often via Delhi or a Gulf hub) and take the short hop across. Build a buffer at the mainland airport in case island flights are delayed by weather.
- Set your connectivity expectationsMobile and internet coverage is patchy across the islands and weaker away from Port Blair, and a foreign SIM may struggle. Download offline maps, carry your bookings on paper, and treat Andaman as a genuine disconnect from the grid.
Andaman is a self-contained beach-and-diving chapter, not a side trip you squeeze between cities, because every leg routes through Chennai or Kolkata and the ferries set their own pace. Give it about six to seven days of its own, slot it at the start or end of a longer India journey, and treat the patchy signal and the permit as the small price for some of the cleanest water and most affecting history in the country.
Money, timing and the island rules for foreign visitors
The practical basics an overseas traveller needs for the islands: cash, the best season, and the strict local rules on alcohol, plastic and the protected reserves.
- Carry cash from Port BlairPort Blair has ATMs and card-friendly hotels, but the smaller islands have few cash machines and the weak signal breaks card and UPI payments. Draw enough cash in Port Blair before you sail, and keep small notes for autos, jetties and beach shacks.
- Come in the calm seasonAbout October to April is the comfortable window: calm seas, clear water for diving and reliable ferries. The monsoon from May to September is cheaper and quieter but rougher, with occasional ferry cancellations, so build in a buffer day if you come then.
- Know the strict local rulesDo not drink alcohol in public, on ferries or on beaches; do not use plastic carry-bags, which are banned with fines that can reach around 1,00,000 rupees; and never touch coral or attempt to visit the protected tribal reserves. These are taken seriously and enforced.
- How long to give itGive Andaman about six to seven days as its own chapter, enough for Port Blair's history and two beach islands without a rush. Less than four or five days is largely lost to the ferries, which run only by day and stop in the early afternoon.
Andaman rewards the traveller who plans the logistics and then lets go: book the flights and ferries early, draw your cash in Port Blair, accept that the signal will drop, and the islands give you back some of the clearest water, gentlest pace and most moving history in India. Many overseas visitors say the forced disconnect, no constant phone, no rush between sights, is exactly what makes the Andamans the part of the trip they remember most.
Why the Andamans are called Kala Pani, the black water
Long before the beaches drew honeymooners, the Andamans were a name to fear on the mainland: Kala Pani, the black water, the punishment of exile across the sea. After the uprising of 1857 the British shipped political prisoners and freedom fighters here, and in 1906 they completed the Cellular Jail at Port Blair, a seven-winged prison radiating from a central tower so that no inmate could see or signal another. Its solitary cells held some of India's most determined revolutionaries through decades of brutal labour and isolation; the names on its walls run through the freedom struggle. The wings were damaged over the years and only part of the structure stands today, declared a national memorial. Each evening, in the courtyard where so many suffered, a light and sound show tells their story in the dark. To walk the cells by day and hear that show by night is to understand why this remote, beautiful archipelago carries a weight no beach can soften.
Tour packages that visit Port Blair
Every journey below is private, hand-crafted and fully customizable. Tell us your dates and we tailor the itinerary, the pace and the priests or guides around you.
7D / 6NAndaman Tour Package for Couples
- The Zonal Anthropological Museum
- The Samudrika Marine Museum
4D / 3NAndaman Nicobar Tour
- Visit Port Blair
- Visit Corbyn’s Cove Beach
5D / 4NPort Blair LTC Tour
- Visit Radhanagar Beach.
- Visit Havelock Island.