Tezu Travel Guide
You cannot enter Arunachal Pradesh without a permit. Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) ; foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit (PAP) . For Tezu this is the...
The permit you must have before you go: ILP and PAP
You cannot enter Arunachal Pradesh without a permit. Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit (ILP); foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit (PAP). For Tezu this is the first thing to sort, and for foreigners it also decides how far east you can go.
- Indians: the Inner Line Permit, done onlineEvery Indian citizen who is not a resident of Arunachal Pradesh needs an ILP. Apply on the Government of Arunachal Pradesh portal at eilp.arunachal.gov.in, upload a recent photo and one ID, and pay online. Carry printed copies, because there are police checkposts on the way into the state and sometimes a second check inland.
- The fee is now about Rs 300 or Rs 500, not Rs 100The tourist eILP fee was revised: it is now about Rs 300 for a stay of up to 3 days and about Rs 500 for beyond 3 days up to 14 days on the official portal. Many older travel pages still quote about Rs 100, so apply on the government site and confirm the current fee there rather than trust a copied figure.
- Foreigners: the Protected Area Permit, through an operatorForeign nationals cannot apply alone. The PAP is arranged by a government-registered tour operator who applies on your behalf on an identified itinerary, with a per-head royalty payable to the state. Apply about 4 to 6 weeks ahead and confirm the current royalty, lead time and exactly where your permit is valid with your operator, because the finer print changes from time to time.
- Apply early, print copiesIndian ILP approvals usually come through quickly, so apply about 3 to 7 days before you travel, and allow longer around the busy January mela. Print two or three copies of your permit and ID and keep photos on your phone as backup, since the far checkposts are not the place to be sorting paperwork.
This is the one rule no listicle tells you. The China-border belt of Anjaw district, which includes Walong, Kibithu and Dong Valley, is generally closed to foreign nationals even with a Protected Area Permit, because it is a sensitive frontier zone. Foreigners can usually visit Tezu, Parashuram Kund and the Wakro and Kamlang side, but the easternmost sunrise-and-war-memorial circuit is normally an Indian-only trip. If you are a foreign traveller, confirm with your registered operator precisely which places your permit covers before you book, so you plan a trip you can actually complete rather than being turned back at a checkpost.
When to visit Tezu and the Lohit valley
The comfortable months are about October to April. Come in the dry winter for pleasant weather and the January Parashuram Kund mela, and avoid the monsoon, when landslides regularly block the Lohit-valley roads.
- November to February: dry, cool and pleasantThis is the best window. The days are pleasant and the skies are clearest, the roads are at their most reliable, and mid-January brings the great Parashuram Kund mela on Makar Sankranti. Tezu sits low, at about 234 metres, so it is warmer than the high hill towns, but nights are cool, so carry a light layer.
- March and April: warm and greenStill a good time before the rains, with warm days and the valley greening up. It is a fine window for the far circuit toward Walong and Dong Valley while the roads are dry, though the eastern sunrise comes very early, so plan short nights around it.
- June to September: monsoon, and best avoidedThe monsoon is heavy in this eastern belt and the Lohit-valley roads are regularly hit by landslides and washouts, so journeys slow down or stop and the far circuit can be cut off. If you must travel then, keep your plans loose and buffer every driving day.
- Pack for a warm lowland and cool nightsBecause Tezu is a low, humid town, days can be warm even in the cooler months, while the higher ground toward Walong and Dong Valley is genuinely cold. Carry light clothes for Tezu and a proper warm layer for the heights, plus rain protection outside the driest weeks.
The two reasons to time a Tezu trip pull in different directions. Mid-January is the Parashuram Kund mela, when thousands of pilgrims arrive for the Makar Sankranti holy dip and the otherwise sleepy town fills with a mela market, stalls and cultural performances for two to three weeks. It is a remarkable sight, but rooms are tight and the roads are busy. The rest of the dry season, roughly November to April outside the mela, is quiet, cool and easier for the far circuit. Decide which you are chasing before you fix dates, because the mela week is a very different trip in crowd and cost.
How to reach Tezu, and the honest truth about the flight
Tezu has no railway and only a small, changeable airport. Almost everyone comes through Assam, by rail to Tinsukia or by air to Dibrugarh, and then drives. Plan the getting-there day as a real day.
- Nearest railhead: Tinsukia in AssamTinsukia is the nearest railhead at about 120 to 150 km, roughly 4 to 5 hours by road, and is well connected by train to Guwahati and the rest of India. Most Indian travellers take a train to Tinsukia or New Tinsukia and then a shared or hired cab across into Arunachal to Tezu.
- Nearest reliable airport: DibrugarhDibrugarh (Mohanbari) airport in Assam is the nearest dependable airport at about 150 to 170 km, with regular flights to Guwahati, Kolkata and Delhi. From Dibrugarh you drive to Tezu, crossing the Brahmaputra and Lohit country, so start early and allow a full half day.
- The small Tezu airport, treated honestlyTezu has its own small airport, India's easternmost, with a day-only operation and no night landing. Alliance Air has run limited short flights linking Tezu with Guwahati, Jorhat, Imphal and Itanagar, but the schedule is thin and changes often, and the airport handled only about 9,239 passengers in the year to March 2025. Treat any Tezu flight as a bonus to reconfirm, not a plan to rely on.
- Guwahati is the main gatewayGuwahati in Assam is the practical gateway with wide flight and train links, about 600 to 620 km away. Most itineraries route through Guwahati to Dibrugarh or Tinsukia and then drive the last stretch into Arunachal. We can arrange a car with an experienced hill driver for the road legs.
Fly into Delhi or Kolkata, connect to Dibrugarh or Guwahati, then drive to Tezu. Remember foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered operator, and the Walong and Dong Valley belt is generally closed to foreigners, so plan this trip with your operator around Tezu, Parashuram Kund and the Kamlang side.
Route via Delhi or Kolkata to Guwahati, the Northeast hub, then continue to Dibrugarh and drive into Arunachal. Pair Tezu and the Lohit valley with Assam to make the long journey worthwhile.
Take a train to Tinsukia or fly to Dibrugarh, then a shared or hired cab across to Tezu, about 4 to 5 hours. Sort your ILP online before you set off, and start the far circuit toward Walong from Tezu.
Parashuram Kund, the Lohit valley, and the far frontier
Tezu is a base more than a monument town. The great draw is Parashuram Kund on the Lohit, with the wild Kamlang reserve, the eastern sunrise at Dong Valley and the 1962 battlefield at Walong beyond.
- Parashuram KundThe holiest site of the region, a sacred pool on the Lohit river about 21 km from Tezu by the Demwe route, where pilgrims bathe to wash away sin. It is busiest on Makar Sankranti in mid-January, when the Parashuram Kund mela draws thousands, but it is a moving, atmospheric place in the quiet season too. Read the legend in the keepsake below.
- Tezu town, the Lohit and the craft centreThe town itself is small and friendly, with a district museum and craft centre worth an hour to understand the Mishmi and other communities, and easy access to the Lohit river, once called the blood river for its reddish silt. It is a good place to rest, stock up and arrange your onward vehicle and guide.
- Kamlang reserve, Wakro and Glow LakeKamlang Tiger Reserve, India's fiftieth tiger reserve, spreads over about 783 square km with its headquarters at Wakro, about 70 km from Tezu and known for its oranges. Deep inside lies Glow Lake, at roughly 1,500 metres, a serene high lake reached only by a demanding multi-day trek with a guide and forest permission, not a drive.
- Walong and Dong Valley, the far eastUp the Lohit valley, about 199 km and a long mountain day from Tezu, Walong holds the 1962 war memorial and, nearby, Dong Valley, the easternmost inhabited valley and the land of India's first sunrise. This belt is remote, military-sensitive and, for foreign nationals, generally off-limits, so it is mainly an Indian traveller's circuit.
It is worth being clear, because pages list it wrongly. Glow Lake sits deep inside the Kamlang Tiger Reserve at around 1,500 metres and is reached only by a hard, multi-day trek through dense forest, with camping, a local guide and forest permission. It is a genuine expedition, not an afternoon outing, and the best window is roughly October to April when the weather is settled. If your time or fitness is limited, enjoy the Wakro and Kamlang foothills instead, and save Glow Lake for a trip planned properly around it.
Signature experiences around Tezu
Beyond the sights, these are the experiences people remember, and how to arrange them honestly and respectfully in a genuinely remote frontier where you are a guest.
- The Parashuram Kund holy dip and melaIf your dates fall in mid-January, the Makar Sankranti dip at Parashuram Kund is the great regional event, a Kumbh of the Northeast, with pilgrims, a mela market, stalls and cultural performances for two to three weeks. Go early in the day for the calmest bathing, respect the pilgrims, and mind your footing on the wet riverside rocks.
- The sunrise at Dong ValleyFor Indian travellers who make the far journey, the pre-dawn trek to the Dong Valley viewpoint for India's first sunrise, which in summer can break as early as about 4 am, is unforgettable. Go with a local guide, carry warm layers and a torch, and treat the timing and the cold seriously, as it is a genuine early start in a remote place.
- Walong and the 1962 war memorialWalong is a place of quiet weight, the site of the 1962 Battle of Walong where Indian troops held the line. Visit the war memorial and, nearby, the Hut of Remembrance at Kibithu with respect, follow all instructions near military positions, and remember photography is restricted in this sensitive border zone.
- A Mishmi village and a Lohit river outingSpend time with a Mishmi community around Tezu or Wakro, ideally through a local host, to understand the weaving, the beliefs and the way of life. On the water, gentle river outings and angling on the Lohit can be arranged locally, best with an experienced boatman who knows the currents.
- Trek toward Glow Lake or the Kamlang foothillsFor the fit and well-prepared, the multi-day trek to Glow Lake inside Kamlang Tiger Reserve is a true wilderness experience. For a gentler taste, the Wakro and Kamlang foothills give forest, birdlife and orange country without the expedition. Arrange either with a local guide and the right forest permission.
- Time it with a Mishmi festivalIf you can, come around Tamladu, the main Mishmi festival held about February, a thanksgiving to the gods of earth, water and air with rituals, dance and song. It is a living community event, not a staged show, so attend quietly as a welcome guest and follow your hosts' lead.
If you do only one thing properly here, let it be the far journey done slowly and with respect. This is not a place to tick attractions from a car window. Whether it is the pre-dawn quiet at Dong Valley, a morning by the Lohit at Parashuram Kund, or an unhurried afternoon in a Mishmi village, the reward of Tezu and its frontier is time and stillness in one of the remotest corners of India. Give the long roads and the early starts the days they need, and the trip becomes a memory rather than a rush.
Where to stay in Tezu, and on the far circuit
Tezu is your comfortable base, with simple guesthouses and lodges. Walong and Dong Valley offer only very basic homestays, so plan modestly and book ahead, especially for the January mela.
- Tezu town: your baseTezu has the best choice of rooms in the district, from basic guesthouses and lodges to a few better hotels, plus shops, fuel and the ATMs you will want to use before heading further. Base yourself here, sort your vehicle and guide, and use Tezu as the hub for Parashuram Kund and the far circuit.
- Room budgets, kept realisticExpect simple guesthouses and lodges at roughly Rs 1,000 to 2,500 a night and a few better rooms at about Rs 3,000 to 5,000. These are estimates for a small-town market, so confirm on booking, and remember that comfort and choice are limited compared with a city.
- Walong and Dong Valley: very basicOut on the far circuit, accommodation is limited to very basic homestays and simple rooms, sometimes arranged through your driver or guide. Keep expectations modest, carry a sleeping bag liner and essentials, and book or confirm ahead where you can, because there is little spare capacity.
- How long to give itGive Tezu and Parashuram Kund about two to three days, or four with the Kamlang and Wakro side. Add the Walong and Dong Valley circuit only if you have six to seven days in total, because the far leg is a long round trip that cannot be rushed.
During the Parashuram Kund mela in January, Tezu fills with pilgrims and rooms are tight and dearer than usual, with the town's modest capacity stretched for two to three weeks. If your dates fall on the mela, book your room as early as you can, or consider basing a little further out and driving in for the day. Outside the mela, rooms in Tezu are usually easy to arrange a few days ahead, but the far circuit toward Walong always needs planning because there simply are not many beds.
Tezu costs and a realistic daily budget
On-the-ground costs in Tezu are modest, but the permit, the long distances and the hired vehicle for the far circuit are the real spend. Here is what to plan for, and why to carry cash.
- The fixed costsThe Indian ILP is about Rs 300 for up to 3 days or about Rs 500 for beyond that on the government portal. A simple room is roughly Rs 1,000 to 2,500 a night, a better one about Rs 3,000 to 5,000. These are the more predictable numbers on the trip.
- The big cost is the vehicleOn the far circuit the vehicle is the main expense: a hired car and driver commonly run about Rs 3,500 to 6,000 a day depending on the route and road, while a shared cab seat from Tinsukia to Tezu is roughly Rs 500 to 900. Agree the rate, the route and the number of days in advance, as there are no meters here.
- A rough daily budgetExcluding your permit and long-distance transport, plan on about Rs 1,500 to 2,500 a day as a budget traveller and about Rs 4,000 to 7,000 for a comfortable day with a private vehicle, a guide and meals. The far circuit toward Walong costs more because of the distance and fuel.
- Carry cashATMs are few in Tezu and can run dry, and there are effectively none out on the far circuit, while many places are cash-only. Draw enough cash in Dibrugarh, Tinsukia or Assam before you head up, and carry it for the whole trip plus a buffer for fuel and the unexpected.
Because there are no meters and few fixed prices out here, the single habit that saves money and friction is to agree every rate in advance and in full: the vehicle for the whole circuit, the driver's days, the guide, the homestay with or without meals. Quotes in this region are generally fair, far from the hard sell of a tourist hotspot, but settling the number and the plan first turns any doubt into a non-event. Pair that with enough cash drawn in Assam, because you cannot rely on an ATM once you leave Tezu, and the trip runs smoothly.
Safety, health, and travelling responsibly around Tezu
Tezu and the Lohit valley are welcoming and low in crime. The real care items are the long mountain road, thin medical cover, the warm lowland climate, patchy connectivity, and the border rules you must respect.
- The road is the main riskThe Lohit-valley roads, especially the long run to Walong, are slow, rough and, in the monsoon, prone to landslides and washouts that can block or delay a journey for hours or a day. Travel by day, use an experienced local driver, buffer your schedule, and never push a long mountain drive after dark. This is a far bigger real risk than crime, which is low.
- Remote medical cover, so prepareThis is a genuinely remote region and good hospitals are back in Assam at Dibrugarh or Tinsukia, hours away. Carry a proper personal medical kit and any regular medication, take mosquito precautions in the warm lowland (this is a malaria-aware belt), expect leeches on monsoon treks, and tell someone your plan before you head into low-signal country.
- Connectivity and cash safetyMobile signal and data are patchy, with some coverage in Tezu town (BSNL and Jio work best) and little to none in Walong and Dong Valley. Download offline maps and your permit in advance, carry enough cash for the whole trip, and do not count on being reachable at all times out east.
- Respect the border and the militaryThe Walong, Kibithu and Dong belt is a sensitive frontier with an army presence. Follow every instruction at checkposts and near military positions, do not photograph soldiers, installations, bridges or the border, and carry your permit and ID at all times. Getting this wrong is a serious matter, so err on the side of caution.
For a foreign traveller, the single safety-and-planning fact that matters most is that the China-border belt of Anjaw (Walong, Kibithu and Dong Valley) is generally off-limits to foreign nationals even with a Protected Area Permit. Do not attempt to travel there hoping to talk your way through a checkpost. Plan your trip with a registered operator around Tezu, Parashuram Kund and the Kamlang and Wakro side, which foreigners can usually visit, and confirm exactly where your permit is valid before you set out. That way the remote east stays a warm, rewarding trip rather than a wasted long drive to a barrier.
Tezu for every kind of traveller, and on access
Tezu suits patient, curious travellers who like remote frontiers more than easy sightseeing. Here is what it offers you, and the one tip that matters for each, including how an older traveller manages the long road.
- CouplesQuiet, wild and unhurried, with the Lohit river, remote sunrises and warm Mishmi hospitality. It is remote-frontier romance rather than comfort travel, so come for the adventure and the calm, and give yourselves enough days that the long roads are part of the story rather than a race.
- Families with childrenRewarding for adventurous families who like nature and culture, though the long, rough roads and basic facilities suit older children better than toddlers. Base in Tezu, keep travel days short, and treat the far circuit toward Walong carefully or save it for another trip.
- Senior travellers and on accessibilityThe main hurdle is the long, rough mountain road and the thin medical cover, not the town itself. If you are an older traveller, break the journey in Assam, travel by day with an experienced driver, base comfortably in Tezu, keep to Parashuram Kund and the nearer sights, and think hard before taking on the demanding Walong and Glow Lake legs.
- Backpackers and budget travellersA true off-the-map trip for those who like remote travel, with shared cabs from Tinsukia, basic guesthouses and genuine frontier country. Carry cash and patience for the roads and the paperwork, and you will find one of the least-visited corners of India opening up.
- Solo female travellersEastern Arunachal is regarded as one of the safer, gentler parts of India for solo women, with low crime and hospitable communities. Standard precautions apply, the remoteness and thin signal are the bigger practical concern, so keep some cash, an offline map and a shared plan, and prefer travelling the far roads by day.
- PhotographersThe Lohit, the Mishmi villages, the mela and the eastern sunrise are a gift, but the border rules are strict. Never photograph military positions, soldiers, bridges or the frontier, always ask before photographing people, and treat the war memorial and pilgrims with respect. The best images here come after a conversation, not a snatched frame.
A suggested Tezu and Lohit valley itinerary
How to shape three to seven days so the long roads are worth it, from a short Tezu and Parashuram Kund trip to the full far circuit toward Walong and Dong Valley.
- Getting-there dayReach Tinsukia by train or Dibrugarh by air, then drive the 4 to 5 hours across into Arunachal to Tezu, arriving by afternoon. Settle in, sort your onward vehicle and guide, and take a first gentle look at the town and the Lohit before an early night.
- Days one and two: Parashuram Kund and Kamlang sideVisit Parashuram Kund on the Lohit, quietly in the off-season or amid the mela in January, then spend a day toward Wakro and the Kamlang foothills for forest, birdlife and orange country. This short version, about three to four days in total with the drive, suits most travellers and all foreign visitors.
- The far circuit: Walong and Dong ValleyFor Indian travellers with six to seven days, drive the long Lohit-valley road up to Walong (about 199 km and a full mountain day), visit the 1962 war memorial and Kibithu, and rise before dawn for India's first sunrise at Dong Valley. Buffer the driving days heavily for landslides and slow stretches.
- Getting-back dayDrive back down to Tezu and on to your railhead or airport in Assam, starting early to keep the mountain roads in daylight. Build in a spare buffer day, especially near the monsoon, so a landslide or a slow road does not risk your onward train or flight.
The mistake that spoils an eastern-Arunachal trip is underestimating the distances and the road. Tezu and Parashuram Kund are a comfortable three to four days including the drive in and out, and that is the right plan for most travellers and the only plan for foreign nationals, who cannot go on to Walong and Dong Valley. The far circuit adds two to three hard driving days and needs six to seven days in total, all in the drier months. Decide honestly how much road you want, and match your days, your vehicle and your permit to it before you set off.
The real questions travellers ask about Tezu
Straight answers to the questions that come up again and again on traveller forums and trip accounts, so you arrive already knowing the score on permits, the road, and how long to stay.
- Is the Inner Line Permit fee really about Rs 300?For Indians, the tourist eILP was revised and is now about Rs 300 for up to 3 days and about Rs 500 for beyond that on the official portal. Older pages quoting about Rs 100 are out of date, so apply on eilp.arunachal.gov.in and confirm the current fee there.
- Can foreigners visit Walong and Dong Valley?Generally no. The China-border belt of Anjaw, including Walong, Kibithu and Dong Valley, is normally off-limits to foreign nationals even with a Protected Area Permit. Foreigners can usually do Tezu, Parashuram Kund and the Kamlang side, so plan the far sunrise circuit only if you are an Indian traveller, and confirm with your operator.
- How do I reach Tezu, and is the Tezu flight reliable?Most travellers take a train to Tinsukia (about 120 to 150 km) or fly to Dibrugarh (about 150 to 170 km) and then drive 4 to 5 hours. Tezu has a small airport with limited Alliance Air flights, but the schedule is thin and changes often, so treat any Tezu flight as a bonus to reconfirm rather than a plan to depend on.
- How many days do I need?Give Tezu and Parashuram Kund about three to four days including the drive, or add the Kamlang and Wakro side comfortably. For the far circuit to Walong and Dong Valley, plan six to seven days in total, because the mountain road is long and slow.
- Is Glow Lake a drive or a trek?It is a demanding multi-day trek inside the Kamlang Tiger Reserve, at around 1,500 metres, not a drive-up lake. Plan it as an expedition with a local guide, camping and forest permission, in the drier months, or enjoy the Wakro foothills instead if your time is short.
- Is it worth the long journey?For travellers who love remote frontiers, tribal culture and wild country, yes, emphatically. It is far, the roads are hard and the comforts are basic, but Parashuram Kund, the Lohit, the Mishmi villages and, for Indians, the eastern sunrise are a rare reward. If you want easy sightseeing, it may frustrate you.
Planning Tezu from abroad: permit and the closed frontier
For foreign nationals, two rules shape the whole trip: you apply for a Protected Area Permit through a registered operator, not alone, and the China-border belt of Walong and Dong Valley is generally closed to you. Plan around what you can actually see.
- The PAP is arranged by an operator, not youUnlike the online ILP for Indians, foreign nationals cannot apply for an Arunachal permit individually. A government-registered tour operator arranges your Protected Area Permit on an identified itinerary, with a per-head royalty to the state, so your first step is to choose a reputable operator and lock your dates about 4 to 6 weeks ahead.
- Walong and Dong Valley are generally off-limitsThe single most important planning fact for a foreigner: the sensitive China-border belt of Anjaw, including Walong, Kibithu and Dong Valley, is normally closed to foreign nationals even with a permit. Do not build your trip around India's first sunrise, because you will most likely not be allowed there. Confirm exactly where your permit is valid with your operator.
- What you can see: Tezu, Parashuram Kund, KamlangForeigners can usually visit Tezu, the sacred Parashuram Kund on the Lohit, and the Wakro and Kamlang side with its forests and orange country. Built around these, an eastern-Arunachal trip is genuinely rewarding, so plan for what is open to you rather than what is not.
- Carry passport, visa and permitYou will need a valid Indian visa plus the PAP, and you should carry printed copies for the checkposts on the way in and any inland checks. Keep digital backups on your phone, and remember signal is patchy once you leave the plains, so do not rely on showing documents from the cloud.
The most common way a foreign traveller's Tezu plan goes wrong is leaving the Protected Area Permit late, or assuming Dong Valley and Walong are open. Because the permit is operator-arranged and tied to a fixed itinerary, have your operator and dates locked about 4 to 6 weeks ahead, and confirm in writing exactly which places the permit covers. Plan around Tezu, Parashuram Kund and the Kamlang side, pair the trip with Assam to make the long journey worthwhile, and you get a warm, safe and genuinely remote experience without a wasted drive to a barrier you cannot cross.
Money, connectivity and timing for foreign visitors
The practical basics an overseas traveller needs for a remote frontier: cash over cards, a SIM sorted in the plains, and how many days to give Tezu on a wider Assam and Arunachal trip.
- Carry cash, do not rely on cardsTezu and the Lohit valley are largely a cash economy with few and unreliable ATMs, and effectively none on the far routes. Draw Indian rupees in Guwahati, Dibrugarh or Tinsukia before you head up, and carry enough for your whole stay plus a buffer. Homestays, guides and small eateries want cash.
- Get an Indian SIM in the plainsForeign visitors should pick up an Indian tourist SIM in Guwahati or Dibrugarh rather than hoping to find one out east. Even then, expect patchy signal in Tezu and almost none further out, so download offline maps and your permit in advance and tell your operator your plan.
- How long to give it on a bigger tripOn a Northeast trip, give Tezu and Parashuram Kund about three to four days within a wider loop through Assam. That is enough for the sacred pool, the town and the Kamlang side, which is the part of the east open to foreign travellers, without racing the long roads that link the region.
- Time it for weather and the melaOctober to April is the comfortable window, with dry, pleasant winter weather. If you want to witness the Parashuram Kund mela, plan around Makar Sankranti in mid-January, but book early because the small town fills up, and confirm road conditions with your operator whatever the month.
Tezu is one of the remotest places a foreign traveller can reach in India, so treat it as a slow, self-sufficient trip rather than a quick add-on. Come with your permit sorted weeks ahead and confirmed for the places you can actually visit, enough cash for the whole trip, offline maps for the patchy signal, and a few days to spare. Do that, accept that the far frontier is closed to you, and the Lohit, Parashuram Kund and the Mishmi welcome reward the effort, slotting beautifully into an Assam and eastern-Arunachal circuit.
Why pilgrims bathe in the Lohit, and how an axe fell away
The Lohit valley's holiest place carries one of the oldest stories in the land. In the tradition, the warrior-sage Parashuram, the axe-bearing avatar of Vishnu, was ordered by his father the sage Jamadagni to behead his own mother, Renuka. Parashuram obeyed, and for that terrible act the axe, the parashu, stuck fast to his hand and would not come free, marking the sin of matricide. Wandering in search of release, he came at last to this pool on the Lohit river in the far eastern mountains, and when he bathed in its waters the axe fell away from his hand and he was cleansed of his sin. In some tellings he then cut through the hill with the freed axe to let the sacred waters flow. Ever since, pilgrims have come to this kund, most of all on Makar Sankranti in January, to take a holy dip and wash away their own sins, which is why the modest town of Tezu becomes, for a few January weeks, host to what people call the Kumbh of the Northeast.
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