Old Delhi
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Old Delhi

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Old Delhi Travel Guide

The best months are October to March , and the single best decision you make is the time of day : the bazaars are gentlest early morning and late evening, brutal at midday in...

CHANDNI CHOWKRED FORTJAMA MASJIDUPDATED JUN 2026
01Season and time of day

When to visit Old Delhi, and the smog and heat to plan around

The best months are October to March, and the single best decision you make is the time of day: the bazaars are gentlest early morning and late evening, brutal at midday in summer.

  • October to March: the comfortable windowWarm days and cool nights make the long walking and the open courtyards of the Red Fort and Jama Masjid pleasant. This is peak season for a reason, so the lanes are busy. Late November to January can bring heavy smog that greys the skyline and irritates eyes and chests, so check the air quality the night before and carry a mask if it is bad.
  • April to June: fierce summer heatHigh summer on the Delhi plain is punishing, with May peaks that can reach about 45 degrees Celsius and hot dry loo winds. The crowded lanes and the open monuments offer little shade. If you must come then, do the walk at first light, rest through the middle of the day, and drink far more water than you think you need.
  • July to September: humid monsoonThe rains break the worst heat but bring humidity, puddled lanes and sudden downpours that can flood the older streets. Mornings between showers can be atmospheric and uncrowded, so keep your plans flexible and carry a light rain layer.
  • The time of day matters more than the monthWhatever the season, Old Delhi is calmest and most photogenic early, roughly 8 to 11 am as the shops open, and again in the cool of the late evening when the food variety is widest. Tuesday to Friday before noon is the smoothest. Many older shops shut on Mondays, and metro rush hours of about 8 to 10 am and 6 to 8 pm pack the trains.
The smog season, told straight

From about late October into January, Delhi can suffer severe air pollution, with some days in the hazardous range. It does not make Old Delhi off-limits, but if you or anyone with you has asthma or a heart condition, watch the daily air-quality index, keep the heaviest walking for clearer days, and carry an N95-type mask. The food, the monuments and the bazaars are all still there; you simply plan around the air the way locals do.

02Air, rail and metro

How to reach Old Delhi

Old Delhi sits at the heart of the capital. The metro is the simplest, cheapest way in, and Old Delhi and New Delhi railway stations are both on its doorstep.

  • By metro, the simplest way inChandni Chowk station on the Yellow Line drops you near the Red Fort and the main bazaar, and Lal Qila and Jama Masjid stations sit on the Violet Line Heritage stretch. Kashmere Gate, the big interchange of the Yellow, Red and Violet lines, is the hub just to the north. Fares run from about 11 to 64 rupees by distance, and trains run roughly 6 am to 11 pm.
  • By trainOld Delhi (Delhi Junction) railway station is right beside Chandni Chowk, and New Delhi station is a short metro hop away. Between them they handle most long-distance trains into the capital, so many travellers arrive within walking or one-stop reach of the old city.
  • From the airportIndira Gandhi International Airport is about 20 km from Old Delhi. The Airport Express metro links the airport to New Delhi station, where you change for Chandni Chowk, or take a pre-paid or app cab for a door-to-door run that varies with traffic. Avoid arriving into the old city in the evening rush if you can.
  • From elsewhere in DelhiFrom Connaught Place, south Delhi or the airport corridor, the metro is faster and cheaper than a road cab in traffic. Ride to Chandni Chowk or Kashmere Gate, then walk or take a cycle-rickshaw into the lanes, as cars cannot enter the pedestrianised core during the day.
From the US, UK and Europe

Fly into Delhi, India's main international gateway. From the airport take the Airport Express metro to New Delhi station and change for Chandni Chowk, or a pre-paid cab. Old Delhi is usually the first deep dive on a Golden Triangle trip.

From the Gulf and Southeast Asia

Fly into Delhi directly, then ride the metro into the old city. Old Delhi pairs naturally with New Delhi's sights and the onward run to Agra and Jaipur.

Within India

Take a train to Old Delhi or New Delhi station, both within metro reach of Chandni Chowk, or ride the metro in from anywhere in the city. The Yellow and Violet lines put you at the gates of the bazaar.

03What to see

The Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and what you actually pay

Old Delhi is the Red Fort, the great Jama Masjid, and the bazaars between them. A few current ticket and entry facts are worth knowing, because several changed in 2026.

  • The Red Fort (Lal Qila)Shah Jahan's vast sandstone fort is the headline monument, run by the Archaeological Survey of India. Entry is commonly about 35 to 50 rupees for Indian nationals and about 500 to 600 rupees for foreign nationals, with the online ticket a little cheaper and children under 15 free. Buy ahead on the official ASI portal to skip the queue. The Kranti Mandir museums inside, including the Netaji and INA museum, need a combined ticket, so ask for it.
  • Jama MasjidIndia's grandest mosque, built by Shah Jahan, with a courtyard that holds thousands. There is no entry fee to walk in, but a photography fee of about 300 rupees applies if you carry a camera, and climbing the southern minaret costs about 100 rupees for one of the best views over the old city. Cover shoulders and knees, and robes are provided or rented at the gate.
  • Chandni Chowk and its bazaarsThe old grand avenue is now a chain of specialist markets: Khari Baoli, widely called Asia's largest spice market, at the western end by Fatehpuri Masjid; Dariba Kalan for silver and attar; and Kinari Bazaar for wedding trimmings. The main street is pedestrianised by day, so walk it or take a cycle-rickshaw.
  • The holy sites in one walkWithin a short stretch you pass Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Sikh shrine on the martyrdom site of Guru Tegh Bahadur with free entry and a daily langar; the Digambar Jain Lal Mandir opposite the Red Fort, with its charity bird hospital; and Fatehpuri Masjid at the far end. Dress modestly and remove shoes where asked.
The Red Fort no longer closes on Mondays

For years the Red Fort was closed every Monday and open roughly 9:30 am to 4:30 pm. An ASI order reported in February 2026 lifted that: the fort now runs all seven days a week, roughly sunrise to about 9 pm. This is carried across several news outlets rather than posted on a single official page we could open, and many guides still print the old closed-Monday rule, so treat the new timing as current but reconfirm on the ASI portal or by phone close to your visit. Jama Masjid, being a working mosque, has no weekly closed day but does pause for prayer times.

04What to actually do

Signature experiences in Old Delhi

The walk itself is the experience: a food trail through Chandni Chowk, a rickshaw through the lanes, the spice market, and the view from the minaret. Here is how to do each one well.

  • The Chandni Chowk food trailThe classic crawl runs on cheap, fresh, made-to-order snacks. From our own tour notes: more than 25 kinds of paratha at Paranthe Wali Gali, where Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan is said to date from about 1872; Natraj dahi bhalla opposite the gali; khasta kachori and matar kulcha at Nai Sadak; Amritsari lassi at Fatehpuri Chowk; and ghee jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala on the Dariba corner. A plate of paratha runs commonly around 100 to 200 rupees.
  • Kebabs and curries by Jama MasjidBehind the mosque in Gali Kababian, Karim's, said to date from about 1913, is the famous Mughlai name for mutton korma, kebabs and nihari, with a meal for two commonly around 800 to 1,200 rupees. Al Jawahar next door is the long-standing rival many regulars rate as good or better, with shorter queues. Try both if you can; they are a minute apart.
  • A cycle-rickshaw through the lanesThe right way through the narrow galis that cars cannot enter. A short hop is commonly around 100 to 200 rupees and a slower one to one-and-a-half hour haveli circuit roughly 500 to 1,000 rupees, all unmetered, so agree the price and route before you set off. A good rickshaw-wala threads the bazaars and old mansions you would never find alone.
  • Khari Baoli, the spice marketA wall of chilli, turmeric, dried fruit and tea, widely called Asia's largest wholesale spice market, beside Fatehpuri Masjid at the far end of Chandni Chowk. Come in the cooler morning when it is least crowded; the air itself is the experience, sharp enough to make you sneeze.
  • The view from Jama Masjid's minaretClimb the southern minaret for about 100 rupees and the old city spreads below you, rooftops, domes and the Red Fort beyond. The stairwell is narrow and steep, and unaccompanied women are commonly not permitted to climb, so this one suits those comfortable in tight, busy spaces.
  • The Charity Birds HospitalA quiet surprise almost no itinerary lists: the bird hospital at the Digambar Jain Lal Mandir opposite the Red Fort has treated injured birds free of charge since about 1956, around 50 a day. It costs nothing beyond a donation if you wish, and it is a gentle counterpoint to the bazaar din.
The one experience not to rush

If you do only one thing slowly, make it the food trail on foot, eaten in small bites across several stalls rather than a single sit-down meal. That is how the old city is meant to be tasted, and it is also the safest way to eat, since you are choosing busy stalls with high turnover. Give yourself a couple of unhurried hours, start a little hungry, and let the lanes lead you from one institution to the next.

05Guided or on your own

The Old Delhi food walk: worth it, and how to do it

The food walk is the reason many people come. You can book a guide or do it yourself; here is the honest steer on which suits you, and how to eat without getting sick.

  • When a guided walk earns its feeA good operator navigates the maze, vets which stalls are fresh that day, sequences the tastings so you do not fill up too soon, and translates and haggles for you. If your time is short, you are nervous about hygiene, or you want the stories behind the food, a guided evening walk of six or seven markets and a dozen-plus tastings is worth it. Travellers consistently rate the better-known food-walk operators as money well spent.
  • Doing it independentlyIf you are a confident traveller with a maps app, you can absolutely do it yourself. Walk the main Chandni Chowk drag, hit the named institutions in our food trail above, and use a cycle-rickshaw only for the lanes you would not otherwise reach. The middle path many travellers take is to self-guide the food and hire a rickshaw for the cramped galis.
  • How to eat without getting sickDo not do the food walk on your first day; wait until day three or four so your stomach has settled. Eat at busy stalls with high turnover, where locals queue, and favour freshly fried or hot items, samosas, kachori, hot jalebi, over anything pre-cooked and reheated. Skip raw water, ice and unpeeled cut fruit. Carry oral rehydration salts from any pharmacy as cheap insurance.
  • Vegetarian eaters are spoilt hereMuch of the Chandni Chowk trail is vegetarian by default: the parathas, dahi bhalla, chaat, kachori, kulcha, lassi and jalebi are all meat-free. The non-vegetarian Mughlai institutions cluster around Jama Masjid in Gali Kababian, so a vegetarian can do the whole bazaar crawl and simply skip that one lane.
The order that keeps your stomach happy

A small habit makes the walk far safer: go for the items that are cooked hot and fast in front of you, and treat anything sitting out at room temperature with caution. Busy is better than fancy, because turnover means the food has not been waiting. Pace yourself across many stalls in small portions, drink only bottled or filtered water, and you can enjoy the full spread of Old Delhi's street food with very little risk.

06Areas and how long

Where to stay near Old Delhi, and how long to give it

Most visitors do Old Delhi as a half-day or full-day from a base elsewhere in the city. Here is where to stay and how much time to set aside.

  • Stay central, visit Old Delhi by dayFew overseas visitors sleep inside the old city itself, which is intense and noisy after dark. The common bases are around Connaught Place and Paharganj for the budget and mid-range traveller, and the quieter, leafier neighbourhoods further south for more comfort. All connect to Chandni Chowk by a short metro ride.
  • Paharganj for backpackersThe backpacker district by New Delhi station is cheap, chaotic and walkably close to the old city by metro. It suits travellers who want a budget room and easy rail access, though it is gritty and you keep your wits about you with the touts.
  • Heritage havelis in the old cityA handful of restored haveli stays let you sleep within the lanes for the atmosphere and the early-morning quiet before the bazaars wake. Lovely for those who want to be inside Old Delhi, but expect noise, narrow access and a livelier night than a modern hotel.
  • How long to give itHalf a day, roughly a morning or an evening, covers the Red Fort or Jama Masjid plus a bazaar and a food crawl at a brisk pace. A full day lets you do the fort, the mosque, the spice market, the holy sites and the food properly without rushing, which is the sweet spot for a first visit.
Base yourself for the metro, not the address

Because the Yellow and Violet lines reach the old city directly, the smartest move is to pick a stay near any convenient metro station rather than chasing a room in Old Delhi itself. A 20 minute train ride from a comfortable, quiet neighbourhood beats a noisy room in the lanes for most travellers, and you still arrive at the bazaar gates in minutes whenever you choose to go.

07What it costs

Old Delhi costs and a realistic budget

Old Delhi is one of the cheapest great half-days in India. Here is what the main things cost, so you can plan and avoid being overcharged.

  • The fixed-price thingsRed Fort entry is commonly about 35 to 50 rupees for Indians and about 500 to 600 rupees for foreign nationals, a little cheaper online. Jama Masjid is free to enter, with a camera fee of about 300 rupees and a minaret climb of about 100 rupees. The metro is about 11 to 64 rupees by distance. These are the rare prices in the old city that are not negotiable.
  • The food, which is cheapStreet snacks run from a few tens of rupees to about 100 to 200 rupees a plate, so a full food crawl across many stalls might cost a few hundred rupees a head. A Mughlai meal for two at Karim's or Al Jawahar is commonly around 800 to 1,200 rupees. You can eat very well here on a small budget.
  • The negotiable thingsCycle-rickshaws are unmetered: a short hop is commonly around 100 to 200 rupees and a longer lane circuit roughly 500 to 1,000 rupees, so agree the fare and route first. Bazaar goods are quoted high to visitors, and a guided food walk is a separate, larger cost. Settle prices before you commit and the friction disappears.
  • Cash and cardsBigger shops, cafes and the metro take cards or UPI, but street stalls, rickshaws and small vendors run on cash, so carry enough small notes for the day. ATMs are easy to find around Chandni Chowk, but keep your cash and phone secure in the crowds, which the safety section covers.
The numbers worth memorising

Outside the fixed monument and metro fares, almost everything in Old Delhi is negotiable, so the single habit that saves money and stress is to agree the price before anything begins, whether that is a rickshaw ride or a bazaar purchase. Quotes to visitors start high and come down without drama. Keep small notes handy for the food, where there is no haggling and prices are honestly low.

08On the ground

Practical logistics: metro, the vehicle ban, water and etiquette

The small things that make an Old Delhi day smooth, from the pedestrianised main street to water, toilets and holy-site etiquette across three faiths.

  • The pedestrianised main streetThe Chandni Chowk main road, from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid, bans motor vehicles daily from about 9 am to 9 pm, so only walkers, cycle-rickshaws and e-rickshaws use it then. Plan to arrive by metro and move through the core on foot or by rickshaw; do not expect a car to drop you in the middle of the bazaar by day.
  • Water, toilets and shadeCarry bottled or filtered water, especially in the heat, and use the toilets at the metro stations and major monuments, as public facilities in the lanes are scarce. Shade is limited in the open courtyards, so a hat, sunscreen and water make a summer visit bearable.
  • Holy-site etiquette across three faithsOne walk can take in a mosque, a Sikh gurudwara, a Jain temple and a Hindu temple. Dress modestly throughout, cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes where asked, cover your head at the gurudwara and the mosque, and ask before photographing people at prayer. The langar at Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib welcomes everyone respectfully.
  • SIM, signal and languageMobile coverage in the old city is generally fine for maps and calls, though it can drop in the densest indoor markets. Hindi and Urdu are the everyday languages, but English is widely understood in the tourist and food trade, and pointing at what you want works everywhere in the bazaar.
09Stay safe and well

Safety, pickpockets, fake guides and staying well

Old Delhi is welcoming and, by day, broadly safe, but the crowds bring pickpockets and the touts bring fake guides. A little awareness keeps the visit happy.

  • Is it safe, honestlyBy day, travellers and locals on the forums broadly call Old Delhi safe, with the crowd itself a kind of protection, and violent crime against tourists rare. The real risk is petty theft, not assault. The common advice is to finish your walk by about 8 pm, stick to the busier lanes after dark, and keep to the well-trodden bazaar streets rather than wandering empty back alleys at night.
  • Pickpockets, the main riskThis is the single most repeated warning. Carry a cross-body or anti-theft bag worn in front in the narrow lanes, keep your phone and wallet in front pockets, leave your passport in the hotel and carry a copy, and do not flash jewellery or an expensive camera. Thieves work the densest crowds and the metro entrances, so be most alert exactly where it is most packed.
  • Fake guides and detour scamsWatch for unsolicited guides, rickshaw-walas who steer you to commission shops on a guided detour, and tourist pricing at stalls. Agree any rickshaw fare and route up front, compare prices across two or three shops for the same item, and stick to the well-known anchors, Paranthe Wali Gali, Dariba Kalan, Natraj, where there is no reason to be diverted.
  • Heat, water and healthDrink bottled or filtered water, take the street-food precautions in the food-walk section, and in the warmer months carry sun protection and far more water than feels necessary. The smog season can irritate eyes and chests, so carry a mask on bad-air days. Carry oral rehydration salts as cheap insurance against an upset stomach.
Solo female travellers

Solo women on the traveller forums generally report Old Delhi as manageable by day with standard precautions, the friction being staring and sales pressure rather than serious threat in the crowded bazaars. Dress modestly, keep to the busy lanes, be firm with touts, and aim to be out of the quieter alleys before dark. A guided walk or a daytime visit in the company of others adds comfort if you would rather not go it alone.

10Who it suits

Old Delhi for every kind of traveller, and on access

Old Delhi rewards very different visitors in different ways. Here is what it offers you and the one tip that matters for each, including how a senior visits comfortably.

  • CouplesAn intense, romantic dive into old India: the food trail, a rickshaw through the lanes at dusk, the minaret view. An evening visit with the bazaar lit and cooler is the most atmospheric, so leave the heaviest sightseeing for the morning.
  • Families with childrenColourful and full of food children love, but crowded and easy to lose a small hand in. Keep little ones close or in a rickshaw, visit in the cooler hours, and the bird hospital at the Jain temple is a gentle, memorable stop for kids.
  • Senior travellers and on accessibilityVery doable with planning. Use cycle-rickshaws for distance rather than walking the whole circuit, visit in the cool of morning or evening, and choose a quieter weekday over a packed weekend. The lanes are flat but uneven, crowded and without much shade, so go slowly, rest often and carry water. The Red Fort and Jama Masjid courtyards involve walking and, for the minaret, a steep climb best skipped if stairs are hard.
  • Backpackers and budget travellersOld Delhi is one of the cheapest great experiences in the country, with food for a few hundred rupees and metro fares of small change. Base in Paharganj nearby, do the food trail independently, and you will eat like royalty on a shoestring.
  • Food loversThis is the destination. Come hungry, eat in small bites across many stalls, mix the vegetarian chaat trail of Chandni Chowk with the Mughlai kebabs by Jama Masjid, and consider a guided walk if you want the stories and the safest stall-picking.
  • PhotographersReach Jama Masjid early morning, as our tour notes advise, for soft light, pigeons and few crowds. The bazaars, the spice market and the rooftop view from the minaret all reward an early start. Ask before photographing people at prayer, and remember the camera fee at the mosque.
11Suggested plans

A suggested Old Delhi itinerary

How to shape a half-day or full day so you catch the monuments at the right hours, the bazaars before the crush, and the food at its freshest.

  • Morning: the monuments firstStart early at the Red Fort when it is cool and quiet, then walk or rickshaw to Jama Masjid for the courtyard and, if you wish, the minaret climb before prayer times and the midday closure. Photographers should reach the mosque at first light for the best of it.
  • Late morning: the bazaarsMove into Chandni Chowk while the shops are opening and the crowds are lighter. Take in Khari Baoli's spice market, Dariba Kalan and the holy sites, using a cycle-rickshaw for the longer hops and your feet for the lanes.
  • Midday and afternoon: the food crawlGraze the Chandni Chowk food trail in small bites, parathas, dahi bhalla, kachori, lassi and jalebi, then the kebabs by Jama Masjid if you eat meat. Keep the hot middle of a summer day for a sit-down meal in the shade rather than walking.
  • The half-day versionIf you only have a morning or an evening, pick one monument, the Red Fort or Jama Masjid, add one bazaar and a short food crawl, and save the rest for next time. An evening half-day catches the cooler air and the widest food spread.
Plan around prayer times and the heat

Two things break a tight Old Delhi plan: arriving at Jama Masjid during a prayer time, when tourists are not admitted, or around Friday noon to about 2 pm for the big Jummah congregation; and trying to walk the open courtyards and shadeless lanes in the worst of the midday summer heat. Do the mosque and the fort in the morning, keep the hot middle of the day for a meal indoors, and let the cooler evening carry the bazaar and the food.

12What travellers ask

The real questions travellers ask about Old Delhi

Straight answers to the questions that come up again and again on traveller forums, so you arrive already knowing the score.

  • Is Old Delhi safe to walk around?By day, broadly yes, with the crowds a kind of protection and violent crime against tourists rare on the forums. The real risk is pickpocketing in the densest lanes, so carry your bag in front and finish before dark. Read the safety section for the full field guide.
  • Is the food walk worth it, or can I do it myself?It is worth it for the food, and you can do it either way. A guide vets the stalls, navigates the maze and tells the stories; a confident traveller with a maps app and our food trail can self-guide and hire a rickshaw only for the cramped lanes.
  • Will I get sick eating the street food?Not if you are sensible. Wait until day three or four of your trip, eat at busy stalls with high turnover, favour hot freshly cooked items, skip raw water, ice and cut fruit, and carry rehydration salts. Done this way the risk is small and the reward is huge.
  • Karim's or Al Jawahar?Both are Mughlai institutions a minute apart by Jama Masjid. Karim's is the famous name with the longer queue; many regulars rate Al Jawahar's curries as good or better with less wait. Try both if you have the appetite.
  • Can vegetarians eat well here?Wonderfully. Most of the Chandni Chowk trail, the parathas, dahi bhalla, chaat, kachori, lassi and jalebi, is vegetarian by default. Only the Mughlai kebab houses by Jama Masjid are meat-forward, and they are easy to skip.
  • How do I get there by metro?Chandni Chowk station on the Yellow Line is closest to the Red Fort and the bazaar, and Lal Qila and Jama Masjid sit on the Violet Line. Fares are about 11 to 64 rupees, trains run roughly 6 am to 11 pm, and you walk into the lanes from the exit.
13NRI and foreign travellers

Planning Old Delhi from abroad

Old Delhi is the most intense, rewarding half-day in north India and usually the first deep dive of a Golden Triangle trip. A little preparation makes the crowds, the etiquette and the food easy to handle.

  • Brace for the density, then enjoy itOld Delhi is louder, tighter and more crowded than almost anywhere a first-time visitor has been, and that is the point. Wear a bag in front, keep your phone secure, go in the cooler hours, and let the intensity become the experience rather than a stress. It is one of the great sensory days in India.
  • Know the holy-site etiquetteOne walk crosses a mosque, a Sikh gurudwara, a Jain temple and a Hindu temple. Cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes where asked, cover your head at the gurudwara and mosque, and ask before photographing worshippers. The free langar at the gurudwara welcomes visitors who behave respectfully.
  • Eat the street food, carefullyDo not skip the food for fear of getting sick; just eat it the safe way. Wait a few days into your trip, choose busy hot stalls, avoid raw water and ice, and carry rehydration salts. The vegetarian chaat trail is a gentle introduction if you are cautious.
  • Slot it into the Golden TriangleFly into Delhi, give Old and New Delhi a day or two, then run on to Agra and Jaipur. Old Delhi is the historic, chaotic heart that sets the tone for the whole trip, and we can arrange a guided walk or a car and driver for the wider loop.
14Money, SIM and timing

Money, connectivity and timing for foreign visitors

The practical basics an overseas traveller needs for an intense old city: cash, cards, a SIM, and how much time to give it on a wider India trip.

  • Carry cash, expect to bargainCards and UPI work in bigger shops, cafes and the metro, but the street food, the rickshaws and the small vendors run on cash, and bazaar prices are negotiable. Draw cash at the ATMs around Chandni Chowk, keep small notes for the food, and agree rickshaw fares before you ride.
  • Get a SIM at the airportPick up an Indian tourist SIM or an eSIM when you land in Delhi rather than hunting for one in the bazaar. Coverage in the old city is fine for maps and calls, though it can drop in the densest indoor markets, so screenshot your route before you dive in.
  • How long to give it on a bigger tripOld Delhi is a half-day to a full day. On a first India trip, give Delhi as a whole a day or two, then move on to Agra and Jaipur. A full day in the old city alone is the right weight for a serious first dive without slowing the wider itinerary.
  • Time it to your comfortOctober to March is the comfortable window; avoid the April to June heat and watch the late-autumn smog. Go early in the day for the monuments and the bazaars, and keep the food for late morning onwards, once the stalls are fresh and busy.
On a first trip to India

Old Delhi is the deep end, and many first-time visitors find it the most vivid day of their whole trip once they stop fighting the chaos. Go in the cool of the morning, keep your valuables in front of you, eat the street food sensibly, and treat the crowds and noise as the experience rather than an obstacle. Do that and the old city gives you a side of India that the polished sights never will, and it is often the part people remember most.

The heart of Shahjahanabad

Why Old Delhi is the old city, and Chandni Chowk its silver avenue

Old Delhi is Shahjahanabad, the walled city the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan founded in the seventeenth century when he moved his capital from Agra, building the Red Fort as his seat and the great Jama Masjid as its mosque. The grand avenue running west from the fort was Chandni Chowk, the moonlit square, and the old story holds that it took its name from a central pool that caught and scattered the light of the moon, lined by a canal that once ran down its middle. Around it grew the specialist bazaars that still trade today, silver at Dariba, spices at Khari Baoli, wedding finery at Kinari, and the lanes filled with the kitchens whose parathas, kebabs and jalebis outlived the empire that built them. The canal and the pool are long gone and the avenue is now pedestrianised, but walk it at dawn before the crowds and you can still feel why this was once the richest, liveliest street in Mughal India. No single contemporary verse fixes the moonlit-pool origin beyond doubt, so we give it as the tradition it is, retold across the city's histories.

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Tour packages that visit Old Delhi

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