Chitkul Travel Guide
The open window is about April to June and September to October ; the Sangla to Chitkul road closes under snow in deep winter.
The best time to visit Chitkul
The open window is about April to June and September to October; the Sangla to Chitkul road closes under snow in deep winter.
- April to June for green meadowsThe loveliest early window at Chitkul is roughly April to June, when the snow has cleared from the high road, the Baspa meadows turn green, and the days are bright and pleasant though the nights stay cold. The valley is at its freshest, the river runs full with snowmelt, and the whole drive up the Kinnaur road is open and spectacular. For most travellers, and especially first timers, this is a fine time to make the long journey to the last village.
- September to October for golden autumnAfter the monsoon, into about September and October, the air is clean and clear, the meadows and orchards turn golden, and the high peaks stand sharp against blue skies, a beautiful and popular time in Chitkul. The nights are cold and the first snows may touch the heights toward late October, so carry warm layers. For crisp light, autumn colour and clear mountain views, these weeks are among the very best of the whole year.
- Deep winter, when the road shutsFrom about mid December, heavy snow usually closes the road from Sangla up to Chitkul, and it does not reliably reopen until about March, so Chitkul is cut off and hard to reach in deep winter. A few hardy travellers reach it in the shoulder cold for the snow, but conditions are severe, facilities minimal and the road treacherous. For most visitors, deep winter is not the time to attempt the last village, however tempting the snow photographs look.
- Mind the monsoon on the roadThe peak monsoon, about July to mid September, brings rain to the lower Kinnaur road and a real risk of landslides, rockfall and blocks on the dramatic Hindustan-Tibet highway, even though Chitkul itself sits in a drier rain shadow. If you travel then, keep your plans flexible, travel by day, watch for road closures, and allow buffer days. The valley is green and quieter, but the demanding road needs extra care and patience in the rains.
Chitkul is at its finest in the open months of about April to June and again in the clear autumn of September and October. From about mid December the Sangla to Chitkul road usually closes under heavy snow and does not reliably reopen until March, so deep winter is not the time for most travellers. Watch for monsoon landslides on the Kinnaur road from July to mid September. Whenever you come, carry warm layers, as the nights are cold even in summer at this height.
How to reach Chitkul, up the Kinnaur road
Reach Chitkul by road up the Hindustan-Tibet highway and the Baspa valley, about 28 km beyond Sangla, with buses and taxis from Shimla and Reckong Peo.
Chitkul is reached only by road, up the old Hindustan-Tibet highway through Kinnaur and then up the Baspa or Sangla valley, about 28 km beyond the village of Sangla. From Shimla it is a long mountain drive of roughly 8 to 10 hours, usually broken with a night at Sangla, Kalpa or Reckong Peo. Regular Himachal state buses and shared taxis run up the Kinnaur road, and a hired car gives the most freedom for the demanding, spectacular journey.
Most travellers start from Shimla, about 247 km away, itself reached from Chandigarh and Delhi by road or the toy train to Shimla. From Shimla the road runs through Narkanda, Rampur and the Kinnaur gorges to Reckong Peo and Sangla, and up to Chitkul. It is about 345 km from Chandigarh and around 570 km from Delhi, a journey almost always split over two days, so plan an overnight halt on the way up rather than rushing.
The nearest airport is the small Shimla airport at Jubbarhatti, about 247 km from Chitkul, with limited flights, so Chandigarh is the more practical air gateway. There is no railway into Kinnaur; the nearest useful railheads are the narrow gauge line to Shimla and the broad gauge at Kalka and Chandigarh. From any of these, the whole journey up to Chitkul is by road, so the last long stretch is always a mountain drive.
Chitkul itself is tiny and walkable, its lanes, meadows and temples easily explored on foot. To reach it and the wider Kinnaur sights such as Sangla, Kalpa and Reckong Peo, a hired car or shared taxi is by far the most convenient, as buses up the Baspa valley are few and slow. For a family or group touring Kinnaur, a car with a careful local driver who knows the mountain road is the sensible and comfortable choice.
Chitkul is a long way up a demanding mountain road, about 247 km and 8 to 10 hours from Shimla and further from the plains, so break the journey with a night at Sangla, Kalpa or Reckong Peo rather than pushing through in one exhausting day. Travel the Kinnaur road by daylight with a careful driver, keep buffer time for slow traffic and any road works, and arrive with energy to spare for the last village at the top of the valley.
The last village, the river and the old temple
The draws are the village at the road's end, the Baspa river and meadows, the old Mathi temple, and the last dhaba of Hindustan.
- The last village on the old roadThe heart of the visit is Chitkul itself, the last inhabited village on the old Hindustan-Tibet road, a small cluster of Kinnauri stone and timber houses with slate roofs, wooden balconies and stacked firewood, ringed by high peaks and forest. To walk its lanes, meet its people and stand where the road runs out toward the closed border is the whole experience, a sense of the very edge of the settled land, remote and quietly moving.
- The Baspa river and meadowsBelow the village, the clear Baspa river runs through wide green meadows and potato fields, one of the loveliest riverside settings in the Himalayas. Walk down to the water, sit in the meadows under the peaks, and simply take in the space and silence, the river, the grass, the snow lines above. In season the river holds trout, and the meadows are a favourite spot for a slow afternoon, a picnic, or a long, contented look at the mountains.
- The old Mathi templeChitkul has old wooden temples to the local goddess Mathi, the oldest said to be around 500 years old, built in the traditional Kinnauri style of carved timber and stone, with a sacred ark of walnut wood carried in festivals. The temples are the spiritual heart of the village and a fine example of the region's distinctive mountain architecture. Visit them quietly and with respect, as living places of a faith that has held this remote valley for centuries.
- The last dhaba of HindustanWhere the road finally ends stand small roadside dhabas that proudly call themselves the last dhaba of Hindustan, the last eating place of India before the border. Stopping for a hot plate of food and a cup of tea at the end of the road, with a photograph by the famous signboard, is a cheerful ritual of every Chitkul visit. It is a simple pleasure, but a memorable one, at what really is the last stop on the road.
The old temples to the goddess Mathi are the living faith of Chitkul, not just a sight. Behave quietly and with respect, remove your shoes and follow local custom where asked, do not enter inner sanctums uninvited or touch the sacred ark and its objects, and ask before photographing the temples or the villagers. A visit made with that reverence honours a deep mountain faith and the people of this remote valley, and is far richer than a hurried photo stop.
The experiences that make Chitkul
Stand at the road's end, walk the Baspa meadows, soak in Kinnauri village life, and use Chitkul as the crown of a Kinnaur trip.
- Stand where the road runs outThe signature Chitkul experience is simply to stand at the end of the road, at the last village of India, and take in the meaning of the place, the closed border beyond, the army post, the sense of the very edge of the country. Eat at the last dhaba, photograph the signboard, and let the remoteness sink in. It is not a grand monument but a feeling, of distance, edge and quiet, that stays with travellers long after.
- Walk the Baspa meadowsGive yourself unhurried time to walk down to the Baspa river and its wide meadows below the village, among the potato fields and grazing grounds under the high peaks. There is no hard trek needed; the pleasure is in the space, the clean air and the sound of the river. Sit a while in the meadows, watch the light move on the snows, and let the pace of this remote valley slow you right down, which is the real gift of Chitkul.
- Soak in Kinnauri village lifeChitkul rewards those who slow down and take in its living Kinnauri culture, the stone and timber houses, the old Mathi temples, the stacked firewood and drying crops, the warm, hardy hill people. Wander the lanes gently, greet the villagers, and notice the distinctive mountain architecture and dress. This is a real, working border village, not a show, so a quiet, respectful curiosity is repaid with a genuine glimpse of one of the remotest inhabited corners of India.
- Crown a Kinnaur journeyChitkul is best enjoyed as the crown of a wider Kinnaur journey, reached after Sangla, Kalpa and Reckong Peo, with their apple orchards, temples and views of the sacred Kinner Kailash. Spend a night or two in the Baspa valley, take in the last village, and then continue your Kinnaur circuit or press on toward Spiti. Seen this way, as the high point of a rich mountain road trip, Chitkul means far more than a single quick stop.
Chitkul sits at about 3,450 metres, high enough that some travellers feel the thin air, so take the first day gently, drink water, and do not over exert on arrival, especially after a long climb by road. At the road's end an army post marks the limit of civilian travel; do not attempt to go beyond it toward the border, follow all instructions, and avoid photographing military positions. Respecting both the altitude and the border rules keeps a visit to the last village safe and trouble free.
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay in a simple homestay or guest house at Chitkul or nearby Sangla, and give Kinnaur and Chitkul about four to six days.
- Simple stays at ChitkulChitkul has simple homestays, guest houses and a few small camps and lodges, with basic but warm comforts suited to a remote mountain village, not a resort town. Staying a night in Chitkul itself, to see the village empty of day trippers in the evening and morning light, is a special experience. Book ahead in the busy spring and autumn seasons, carry warm gear for the cold nights, and come prepared for simple facilities and occasional power and signal cuts.
- Sangla and Kalpa as basesMany travellers base a night at the larger village of Sangla, about 28 km down the valley, with a wider choice of homestays, camps and hotels, and make Chitkul a day trip up and back. Kalpa, further along the Kinnaur road, is another lovely base with famous views of Kinner Kailash. Splitting your nights between Sangla or Kalpa and a night in Chitkul itself gives both comfort and the magic of waking in the last village.
- Give Kinnaur four to six daysChitkul alone is a day or two, but it is best enjoyed within a Kinnaur trip of about four to six days, allowing for the long, slow drives and an unhurried pace at altitude. Give time to Sangla and the Baspa valley, Kalpa and Reckong Peo, and Chitkul at the top, with overnight halts on the way up and down. Do not try to rush the last village in a single punishing dash from the plains; the mountains reward patience.
- Fit it into a Himachal tripPlan Chitkul within a wider Himachal loop rather than alone: the Kinnaur valley with Sangla, Chitkul, Kalpa and Reckong Peo, often continued over the high passes toward Spiti and back through Lahaul or Shimla. Spreading these across a week or more turns a long haul to one village into one of the great mountain road trips in the country, through apple valleys, gorges, old temples and the high, dry edge of the Himalaya.
The travellers who love Chitkul most give it a night rather than a quick day trip, staying in a simple homestay to see the village in the quiet of evening and dawn, when the day visitors have gone. Base the rest of your Kinnaur trip at Sangla or Kalpa, allow four to six days for the whole circuit and its long drives, book ahead in the busy seasons, and carry warm layers for the cold nights, and the last village becomes a memory rather than a stop.
A gentle guide to the cost of a Chitkul trip
The journey and a hired car for Kinnaur are the main costs; stays are simple, and it helps greatly to carry cash.
- Getting there is the main costThe main cost of a Chitkul trip is usually the journey, the long drive up from Shimla or the plains, whether by bus, shared taxi or a hired car with driver for the Kinnaur circuit. The bus is very affordable but slow, while a private car costs more and gives freedom and comfort on the demanding road, and suits families. It is the travel up and down the mountains, more than the stay, that sets the budget for most trips.
- Simple stays and foodSleeping and eating in and around Chitkul are simple and fairly affordable, from homestays and small guest houses to modest camps, with honest local food at dhabas and homestay kitchens. This is a remote place, so choices are limited and comforts basic rather than luxurious, but that is part of its character. A modest budget goes a reasonable way here, with the long journey, not the village stay, being the bigger part of the cost.
- A car for the Kinnaur roadBecause the sights are strung along a long, demanding road, a hired car or shared taxi for the Kinnaur circuit is money well spent, especially for a family or group, and much easier than piecing together infrequent buses up the Baspa valley. Budget for a few days of a car with a driver who knows the mountain road, and the whole of Kinnaur, from Sangla to Chitkul to Kalpa, opens up safely and comfortably at your own pace.
- Carry plenty of cashCash machines are scarce and unreliable in Kinnaur and can be out of service or out of cash, and mobile payment often fails where the signal is weak, so carry enough cash from Shimla, Reckong Peo or a larger town for the whole trip. Draw it before you head up the Baspa valley. As so often in the remote hills, a little extra cash in hand saves real trouble far from a working bank, for stays, food, fuel and rides.
Practical tips: the road, the permits and the border
A few facts help: check the season and the road, know the permit position, respect the border rules, and carry cash and warm gear.
- Check the season and the roadPlan around the season: the open months of about April to June and September to October are best, the Sangla to Chitkul road usually closes under snow from about mid December to March, and the monsoon brings landslide risk on the lower Kinnaur road. Check the current road and weather conditions before you set out, keep your plans flexible, travel by day, and allow buffer days, as the demanding mountain highway can be slowed or blocked at short notice.
- Know the permit positionIndian travellers need no inner line permit to visit Chitkul and the Sangla valley. Foreign nationals face restrictions in the border areas of Kinnaur and should check the current rules, and any trek beyond, such as the Lamkhaga Pass route, needs a permit from the office at Reckong Peo. Carry identity documents, confirm the latest position before you travel, especially as a foreign visitor, and arrange any needed permit at Reckong Peo on the way up.
- Respect the border and the armyChitkul is a genuine border village, and the road ends at an army checkpost beyond which civilians may not travel. Do not attempt to go past the post toward the border, follow all instructions from the security forces, and avoid photographing military posts, camps or personnel. Treat the sensitivity of the frontier with respect and common sense. Observing these simple rules keeps your visit to the last village safe, legal and free of any trouble.
- Carry cash, warm gear and medicinesCome prepared for a remote, high place: carry enough cash, warm layers even in summer for the cold nights, any personal medicines and a small first aid kit, and download maps and details in advance, as mobile signal is patchy and power can cut out. Take the altitude of about 3,450 metres gently on arrival. A little preparation on cash, warmth, health and connectivity makes a trip to the last village smooth and worry free.
Chitkul is the end of the road: beyond the village an army checkpost marks the limit of civilian travel toward the closed Indo-Tibet border, and you may not go past it. Do not attempt to, follow the security forces' instructions, and do not photograph military positions. Indians need no permit for Chitkul itself, but foreign nationals should check the border-area rules, and treks beyond need a permit from Reckong Peo. Respect the frontier, and your visit stays safe and simple.
Safety at Chitkul and on the Kinnaur road
Chitkul is a safe, friendly village; the cares are the demanding road, the altitude, the cold and remoteness, and the border rules.
- Respect the demanding roadThe greatest care at Chitkul is the journey: the old Hindustan-Tibet highway through Kinnaur is one of the most dramatic and demanding roads in the country, carved into gorges above the rivers, and prone to landslides and rockfall in rain. Travel by day with a careful, experienced driver, do not rush, keep a buffer in your plans, and turn back or wait out any bad weather. Handled with patience and a good driver, the road is safe as well as spectacular.
- Take the altitude gentlyChitkul sits at about 3,450 metres, high enough that some travellers feel the thin air, headaches or breathlessness, especially if they climb quickly from the plains. Break the journey with overnight halts on the way up, take the first day at Chitkul gently, drink plenty of water, avoid heavy exertion and alcohol on arrival, and descend if anyone feels seriously unwell. A slow, staged ascent is the simple key to enjoying the altitude of the last village safely.
- Prepare for cold and remotenessEven in summer the nights at Chitkul are cold, and in the shoulder seasons bitterly so, while facilities, power and mobile signal are limited in this remote village. Carry warm layers, a good jacket, personal medicines and a first aid kit, keep devices charged when you can, and tell someone your plans. Coming prepared for cold and remoteness, rather than expecting town comforts, is what keeps a trip to this far mountain village comfortable and safe.
- The ordinary careBeyond the road, the altitude and the cold, Chitkul is a safe, quiet and friendly village, and the Kinnauri people are warm and hospitable. Keep an eye on your belongings on long bus and shared taxi journeys, respect the border rules at the road's end, and take the river and any walks with sensible care. Solo travellers, including women, generally find Kinnaur safe with normal precautions. With mountain sense, Chitkul is a rewarding and peaceful place.
Chitkul for every kind of traveller
The last village suits slow travellers, road trippers, photographers and the adventurous, with a little care over the road, altitude and season.
- Slow travellers and couplesChitkul is made for those who travel to reach the far, quiet places, couples and slow souls who want meadows, a river, an old temple and the feeling of the very edge of the country. There is little to do but be there, walk the meadows, sit by the Baspa, watch the light on the peaks, and that is the whole point. For a quiet, romantic escape to a truly remote corner, the last village is hard to better.
- Road trippers and bikersFor road trippers and motorcyclists, the drive to Chitkul is a prize in itself, the legendary Hindustan-Tibet road through Kinnaur, the apple valleys, the gorges, and the last stretch up the Baspa to the end of the road. Ride or drive by day, take the demanding sections slowly, carry spares and warm gear, and give yourself time. For those who love the journey as much as the destination, Kinnaur and Chitkul are among the great routes in India.
- Photographers and nature loversFor photographers and nature lovers, Chitkul is a feast, the Kinnauri houses and old temple, the Baspa river and meadows, the high peaks and the light of the last village, best in the clear spring and autumn. Come with warm gear and patience for the mountain weather, and the valley repays you endlessly. Even without a hard trek, the setting, culture and sense of edge make Chitkul one of the most rewarding places in the Himalayas to simply look and photograph.
- Families and the adventurousChitkul suits adventurous families and travellers who do not mind a long, demanding journey and simple facilities, rather than those wanting easy comfort. With children, break the drive well, take the altitude gently, keep to the meadows and the village, and choose the pleasant seasons, and it is a memorable trip. First timers should come prepared for remoteness and the road, but the reward, standing at the last village of India, is one few forget.
A suggested Kinnaur plan around Chitkul
A graded plan: Shimla, Sangla, Chitkul and Kalpa over about five to seven days, easily extended toward Spiti.
- Days 1 to 2: up the Kinnaur roadBegin from Shimla and drive up the old Hindustan-Tibet road through Narkanda and Rampur into Kinnaur, breaking the journey with a night on the way, perhaps at Sarahan with its famous Bhimakali temple, or pressing on toward Sangla. This staged start eases you into the altitude and the demanding road, and lets you enjoy the dramatic scenery of the Sutlej gorges rather than exhausting yourself in one long dash from the plains.
- Day 3: Sangla and the Baspa valleyReach the Sangla or Baspa valley and settle in at Sangla, a lovely larger village with homestays, camps and hotels, apple orchards and old temples. Give the day to resting after the climb, exploring Sangla and perhaps the old Kamru fort and temple, and acclimatising to the altitude before going higher. This gentle day in the beautiful Baspa valley sets up the visit to Chitkul at the top and keeps the pace sensible at height.
- Day 4: Chitkul, the last villageDrive the roughly 28 km up the Baspa valley to Chitkul, the last village of India, and give it unhurried time, the lanes and Kinnauri houses, the old Mathi temple, the meadows by the river, and the last dhaba at the road's end. Stay the night in a simple Chitkul homestay if you can, to see the village in the quiet of evening and dawn, or return to Sangla. It is the high point of the whole journey.
- Days 5 to 7: Kalpa, then onwardContinue along the Kinnaur road to Kalpa and Reckong Peo, for the famous views of the sacred Kinner Kailash range across the valley, the apple orchards and old temples. From here, relax a final day, return toward Shimla, or, if you are equipped and the passes are open, continue the great high road toward Spiti. Over about five to seven days this Kinnaur plan gives the best of Chitkul without rushing the mountains.
The real questions travellers ask about Chitkul
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a Chitkul trip.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Chitkul by road up the Kinnaur highway and the Baspa valley, about 28 km beyond Sangla and roughly 247 km and 8 to 10 hours from Shimla, usually split over two days from the plains. The best time is about April to June and September to October; the Sangla to Chitkul road usually closes under snow from about mid December to March. Break the long drive with overnight halts, and travel the demanding road by daylight.
- Do I need a permit, and can I go beyond?Indian travellers need no inner line permit for Chitkul or the Sangla valley. Foreign nationals face restrictions in the border areas of Kinnaur and should check the current rules, and treks beyond, such as the Lamkhaga Pass route, need a permit from Reckong Peo. The road ends at Chitkul at an army post; civilians may not travel beyond it toward the border, so Chitkul really is the end of the road for visitors.
- Why is it called the last village of India?Chitkul is the last inhabited village on the old Hindustan-Tibet road before the closed Indo-Tibet border, the final settlement up the Baspa valley beyond which the road ends at an army post and civilian travel stops. That is why it is famous as one of the last villages of India, a small, remote place at the very edge of the settled land, with the last dhaba of Hindustan at the road's end.
- Is Chitkul good for families, and how long to stay?Chitkul suits adventurous families who do not mind a long, demanding drive and simple facilities, best with a well broken journey, a gentle pace at altitude and the pleasant seasons. Give Kinnaur and Chitkul about five to seven days as part of a circuit with Sangla, Kalpa and Reckong Peo, with overnight halts on the way. It is a place to reach slowly and savour, not to rush in a single punishing dash from the plains.
Planning Chitkul from abroad
For overseas visitors, Chitkul is a remote Himalayan border village reached through Delhi, Chandigarh, Shimla and the Kinnaur road, best planned with care.
- Route in through Delhi and ShimlaFrom abroad, fly into Delhi and continue to Shimla by road or the toy train, or via Chandigarh, then take the long Kinnaur road up to the Baspa valley and Chitkul. Allow a full, comfortable Kinnaur circuit of several days for the long mountain drives and the altitude, rather than rushing. Delhi, Chandigarh and Shimla are the natural gateways, and the journey itself, up the dramatic Hindustan-Tibet road, is a large part of the adventure of reaching the last village.
- Check the foreign-visitor rulesOverseas visitors should note that while Indians need no permit for Chitkul, foreign nationals face restrictions in the border areas of Kinnaur and should check the current rules before travelling, carrying passports and any needed documents. Confirm the latest position with a reliable operator or the authorities, arrange any permit at Reckong Peo, and respect the border sensitivities at the road's end. A little checking in advance keeps a foreign visitor's trip to the frontier smooth.
- Come in the open seasonTime an overseas trip for the open months of about April to June or September to October, avoiding the deep winter when the Sangla to Chitkul road is closed by snow, and the peak monsoon landslides on the lower Kinnaur road. Carry warm layers for the cold nights even in summer, and good shoes. Planning around the season and the road, and building in buffer days, makes for a smooth and rewarding journey to the last village from abroad.
- Expect remoteness and simple comfortsChitkul is a remote border village, not a resort, so come for its meadows, its old temple and the feeling of the edge of the country rather than for luxury or nightlife, and expect simple stays, patchy signal and cold nights. That very remoteness is the draw. Arrange stays and transport in advance, carry enough cash, take the altitude gently, and Chitkul rewards an overseas visitor with a rare, unforgettable corner of the Himalayas.
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry plenty of cash, expect weak signal in Kinnaur, time the trip for the open season, and confirm the foreign-visitor border rules.
- Carry cash from the plainsDraw plenty of Indian rupees in cash in Delhi, Chandigarh or Shimla before heading up the Kinnaur road, as cash machines are scarce and unreliable in the mountains and often fail in the remote Baspa valley. The stays, dhabas, fuel and local transport are largely cash matters. For a visitor from abroad who cannot easily solve a money problem in a far border valley, arriving with enough cash for the whole circuit is simply sensible preparation.
- Expect patchy signalMobile coverage is uneven across Kinnaur and weak or absent at Chitkul, and foreign SIMs may not work well in these border areas, so download maps and details in a town, and tell family you may be out of touch for a day or two. An Indian prepaid SIM helps lower down but fades near the frontier. Treat the disconnection as part of the remote adventure, and do not rely on a signal for payment or directions in the high valley.
- Time it well and build buffersPlan the trip for the open months of about April to June or September to October, avoiding the winter road closure and the monsoon landslides, and build buffer days into the itinerary, as the demanding Kinnaur road can be slowed or blocked at short notice. This is both the loveliest and the safest window for the last village. Keep the pace unhurried after a long journey from abroad, and let the mountains, not the clock, set the rhythm.
- Confirm the border rulesFor an overseas visitor, the key extra step is to confirm the current rules for foreign nationals in the border areas of Kinnaur before travelling, as these can change, and to arrange any needed permit at Reckong Peo. Carry your passport, respect the army post at the road's end, and do not attempt to go beyond it or photograph military positions. Checking the rules in advance and respecting the frontier keeps a foreign visitor's trip to Chitkul safe and simple.
Where the road, and India, run out
Far up in the high, dry mountains of Kinnaur, where the old Hindustan-Tibet road climbs through gorges above the rivers and then turns up a side valley along the clear Baspa, the tarmac at last runs out at a small cluster of stone and timber houses called Chitkul, the last inhabited village of India before the closed border with Tibet. It is a place defined by its edge. Beyond the village an army post marks the limit of where ordinary travellers may go, and past it the mountains rise empty toward the frontier. But Chitkul is not bleak. In the open months its setting is one of the loveliest in the Himalayas: the Baspa river running clear through wide green meadows and potato fields, the Kinnauri houses with their carved wood and slate roofs and stacked firewood, the old wooden temples to the goddess Mathi, one of them said to be five centuries old, and the snow peaks standing all around. At the road's end a little dhaba proudly calls itself the last dhaba of Hindustan, and travellers stop there for a hot meal and a photograph at the very edge of the country. To reach Chitkul you must give days to the long, demanding mountain road, through the apple valleys and gorges of Kinnaur, past Sangla and Kalpa and the sacred Kinner Kailash, climbing slowly into the thin, clear air. And when you arrive, and walk down to the meadows by the river with the peaks above and the road behind you finally spent, you understand why people come so far: to stand, quietly, at the place where the road, and the land, run out.
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