- March to June for the valley at its bestThe loveliest months at Kasol are roughly March to June, when the Parvati Valley is green, the days are mild and pleasant, and the riverside cafes and the treks are at their most enjoyable. The snow has melted from the lower routes, the higher trails toward Kheerganga open up, and the whole valley feels alive. For most travellers, and especially first timers, this is the ideal window to come.
- Autumn for clear, quiet daysAfter the monsoon, into about October and November, the air is clean and the valley quiet, with clear mountain days and thinning crowds, a lovely time for the cafes and the lower walks. Nights turn cold as autumn deepens and the higher treks begin to close with the first snows, so carry warm layers. For a calmer, crisper Kasol, these autumn weeks are a fine choice.
- Winter snow, with careFrom about late December to February, Kasol sees snowfall and turns cold and beautiful, and travellers come for the snow and the cosy cafes. But the higher roads and the treks to Kheerganga and beyond can be blocked, and the cold is real, so come prepared with warm gear and flexible plans. Winter suits those who want snow and quiet more than the high mountain treks.
- Avoid the peak monsoonThe peak monsoon, about July to mid September, brings heavy rain to the Parvati Valley and a real risk of landslides and road blocks on the mountain routes, which can strand travellers. The valley is lush and green then, but the going is uncertain. If you must travel in the monsoon, keep your plans flexible, watch the weather, and do not attempt the higher treks in heavy rain.
Spring and autumn are kindestKasol is loveliest in the pleasant months of about March to June, and again in the clear autumn of October and November. Winter, from about late December to February, brings snow and cold, beautiful but with higher roads and treks often blocked. Avoid the peak monsoon, about July to mid September, when landslides can close the Parvati Valley roads. Whenever you come, carry warm layers, as the valley is cool once the sun drops.
02Getting there
How to reach Kasol, up the Parvati Valley
Reach Kasol by road up the Parvati Valley, about 30 km from Bhuntar airport, with buses from Delhi, Chandigarh and Manali.
By road, the usual way
Most travellers reach Kasol by road, on an overnight bus or a drive from Delhi or Chandigarh up to the Kullu valley and then along the Parvati Valley through Bhuntar. Regular buses run from Delhi, Chandigarh, Kullu and Manali. It is a long mountain journey, beautiful but slow, so an overnight bus to Bhuntar and a short local ride on to Kasol is the classic and affordable way to come.
By air to Bhuntar
The nearest airport is the small Kullu-Manali airport at Bhuntar, about 30 km from Kasol, with limited flights to Delhi and a few other cities. From Bhuntar it is a short road journey up the Parvati Valley to Kasol. Flights to this hill airport can be weather dependent and pricey, so many travellers prefer to fly to Chandigarh or Delhi and continue by road, which is more reliable.
By train, then road
There is no convenient railway near Kasol. The nearest broad gauge station is far off at Pathankot, and the narrow gauge mountain line ends at Joginder Nagar, about 145 km away, so the train is not the practical choice. Most travellers take the train only as far as a plains city such as Chandigarh, and then continue up to the Parvati Valley by bus or car.
Getting around the valley
Kasol itself is small and walkable, and the nearby Manikaran, Chalal and Tosh are reached by local bus, shared taxi or on foot. For the treks to Kheerganga and Malana, you drive or bus to the trailhead and walk from there. A hired car or shared taxi for the valley gives the most freedom, especially for reaching Tosh and the trek starts, and for a family or group it is convenient.
Overnight bus, or fly to BhuntarMost travellers reach Kasol on an affordable overnight bus from Delhi or Chandigarh up the Parvati Valley through Bhuntar, or fly to the small Bhuntar airport about 30 km away and ride the last stretch. There is no convenient railway. Fly to Chandigarh or Delhi and continue by road for the most reliable journey, and use a local taxi or bus for Manikaran, Tosh and the trek roadheads.
03What to see
The river, Manikaran and the valley villages
The draws are the Parvati river and cafes of Kasol, the sacred hot springs and gurudwara of Manikaran, and the villages of Chalal and Tosh.
- Kasol and the Parvati riverThe heart of Kasol is the rushing Parvati river and the relaxed little village along it, with its famous riverside cafes, pine forests and mountain air. It is a place to slow right down, to sit by the water with a book and a coffee, to wander the small lanes, and to breathe the cool valley. The gentle, unhurried mood, more than any single sight, is what draws travellers back to Kasol.
- Manikaran, the sacred hot springsAbout 4 km up the valley, Manikaran is a genuine wonder and a place of pilgrimage. Here, beside the Parvati river, stand a revered Sikh gurudwara, Manikaran Sahib, and a Hindu temple, and natural hot springs so hot that rice and lentils are cooked in them for the free community kitchen. Pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters. It is a moving, atmospheric place, and the finest sight near Kasol.
- Chalal and ToshFor an easy taste of the valley, walk the half hour along the river to the quiet hamlet of Chalal, a favourite gentle stroll from Kasol. Further up the valley, the higher village of Tosh, reached by road and a short climb, offers wonderful views over the mountains and a slower, more traditional feel. Both make lovely half day trips and show the Parvati Valley beyond the cafes of Kasol.
- The trailheads to the high valleyKasol is above all a base, and its greatest sights lie a walk away, up the trails into the high Parvati Valley. From near Kasol and the nearby village of Barshaini begin the treks to the hot spring meadow of Kheerganga and to the secretive old village of Malana. Even a short walk up these paths, into the pine forest and along the river, gives a sense of the wild beauty above the town.
Manikaran is a place of worshipThe gurudwara and temple at Manikaran are living places of worship, not just a sight. Cover your head, remove your shoes, and behave with the respect due to a shrine, take the free langar meal offered with humility, and treat the hot springs and their bathing pools as sacred. A visit made with that reverence, rather than as mere sightseeing, is far more moving, and honours the faith of the pilgrims who come here.
04Things to do
The experiences that make Kasol
Slow down in the cafes, trek to the hot spring meadow of Kheerganga, visit the old village of Malana, and bathe at Manikaran.
- Slow down in the cafesThe signature Kasol experience is simply to slow down, in the riverside cafes with their easy mood, good coffee and food from across the world, watching the Parvati rush by. It is a place made for doing very little, for reading, talking and resting between walks. Embrace the slow rhythm, spend an unhurried morning by the river, and let the pace of the mountains take over, which is the whole point of Kasol.
- Trek to KheergangaThe great trek from the valley is to Kheerganga, a high meadow with a natural hot spring, reached in a day's walk from the roadhead at Barshaini, up through forest and along the river, climbing to around 3,000 metres. Many camp overnight at the top and soak in the hot spring under the stars. It is a moderate but rewarding trek, one of the finest in Himachal, and the highlight for many visitors.
- Visit Malana, with respectThe ancient, isolated village of Malana, reached by a trek from the valley, is famous for its unique customs, its own language and old self rule, and its people's guarded traditions. Visitors are welcome to walk through but are asked not to touch the villagers, their homes or the temple, on pain of a fine, so respect these customs carefully. It is a fascinating, otherworldly place, best visited quietly and with real courtesy.
- Bathe and eat at ManikaranAt Manikaran, join the pilgrims in the sacred hot springs, take a meal in the free community kitchen where the food is cooked in the natural hot water, and sit a while in the gurudwara by the river. It is a warm, humbling experience, a genuine pilgrimage a short ride from the cafes of Kasol, and a reminder of the deep faith that fills these valleys beneath the modern traveller scene.
Kheerganga is the great walkThe finest adventure from the valley is the trek to Kheerganga, a high meadow with a natural hot spring, a day's walk from the Barshaini roadhead up to around 3,000 metres, with camping and a starlit soak at the top. Go in the warmer, snow free months, take a guide if unsure, carry warm layers and water, and turn back if the weather closes in. It is the highlight for many visitors.
05Base and days
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay in a riverside cafe stay, hostel or camp at Kasol or up the valley at Tosh, and give the Parvati Valley about three to five days.
- Riverside stays, hostels and campsKasol has a wide range of places to sleep, from lively backpacker hostels and riverside camps to homestays, cottages and comfortable hotels, at prices to suit every budget. Staying by the river, with the sound of the water and a cafe close by, is the classic Kasol choice. Book ahead in the busy spring and summer season and around long weekends, when the small village fills up quickly.
- Tosh and Chalal for quietFor a quieter, higher base, the village of Tosh up the valley has simple guest houses and cafes with wonderful views, and the hamlet of Chalal, a short walk from Kasol, offers riverside camps and stays away from the main bustle. Basing at one of these, or splitting your nights between Kasol and Tosh, gives a calmer, more scenic stay and a deeper feel of the Parvati Valley.
- Give the valley three to five daysKasol itself is a day or two of slow cafes and short walks, but the Parvati Valley rewards more time. Allow about three to five days to enjoy Kasol and Manikaran, walk to Chalal and up to Tosh, and make the trek to Kheerganga with a night at the top. Do not rush it; the valley is made for a slow, unhurried few days rather than a quick stop.
- Fit it into a Himachal tripPlan Kasol within a wider Himachal loop rather than alone: the Parvati Valley with Kasol, Manikaran, Tosh and Kheerganga, and perhaps Manali and the Kullu valley beyond. Spreading these across several days turns a long haul to one village into a rich journey through the pine valleys, hot springs, treks and mountain towns of Himachal, one of the finest hill regions in the country.
Give the valley time, not just KasolThe travellers who love the Parvati Valley most give it several unhurried days rather than a quick stop in Kasol. Base in a riverside stay at Kasol or a quieter one at Tosh, walk to Chalal and Manikaran, and make the Kheerganga trek with a night at the hot spring meadow. Book ahead in the busy spring and summer, carry warm layers, and let the slow mountain pace, more than any single sight, be the pleasure.
- Getting there is the main costThe main cost is usually the journey, an overnight bus or a hired car from Delhi or Chandigarh up the Parvati Valley, or a flight to Bhuntar and a short ride on. The bus is very affordable and the classic backpacker choice. Once in the valley, Kasol is easy on the pocket, so it is the travel to and from, more than the stay, that sets the budget for most trips.
- Simple stays and famous cafesSleeping and eating in Kasol suit every budget, from cheap hostel beds and riverside camps to comfortable cottages, and the famous cafes serve good, fair priced food from across the world. This is a place where a modest budget goes a long way, which is part of its backpacker appeal. Meals, coffee and a simple bed rarely strain the pocket, leaving more for the treks and the valley.
- Treks and guidesThe treks to Kheerganga and Malana are cheap to do, and a local guide, worth the small cost for safety and for the way to Malana especially, adds little. Camping at Kheerganga, with a tent and meals at the top, is affordable. Budget a little for the trek, a guide and any camping gear you hire, and the great walks of the valley are within easy reach of a modest trip.
- Carry cashCash machines are few in the Parvati Valley and can be out of service or out of cash, and mobile payment often fails where the signal is weak, so carry enough cash from Bhuntar or a larger town for the whole trip. Draw it before you head up the valley. As so often in the hills, a little extra cash in hand saves real trouble far from a working bank.
07Good to know
Practical tips: the roads, the customs and staying safe
A few facts help: check the season and roads, respect Malana's customs, carry cash, and steer well clear of drugs.
- Check the season and the roadsPlan around the season: the pleasant months of about March to June and the clear autumn are best, winter brings snow that can block the higher roads and treks, and the peak monsoon brings landslides. Check the road and weather conditions in the Parvati Valley before you set out, keep your plans flexible, and do not attempt the higher treks in snow or heavy rain without a guide and proper gear.
- Respect Malana's customsIf you visit Malana, respect its guarded traditions carefully. Visitors are asked not to touch the villagers, their homes, or the temple and its objects, and a fine may be charged for breaking these customs. Walk through quietly and courteously, ask before photographing people, and treat the village and its people with real respect. This is a proud, ancient community, not a curiosity, and deserves to be treated as such.
- Carry cash and expect weak signalCash machines are scarce and unreliable in the Parvati Valley, and mobile signal is patchy up the valley and on the treks, so carry enough cash from a larger town, download maps and any details in advance, and tell someone your plans. An Indian prepaid SIM helps in Kasol but fades up the valley. Coming prepared on cash and connectivity keeps a hill trip smooth and worry free.
- Steer clear of drugsThe Parvati Valley has a long, notorious association with charas, or hashish, and with illegal rave parties, and travellers are often offered drugs. Be clear and firm: drugs are illegal in India, the penalties are serious, and getting involved can lead to real trouble far from home. Enjoy the cafes, the river and the treks, keep well away from the drug scene and illegal parties, and your trip stays safe and happy.
Drugs are illegal, keep well clearThe Parvati Valley is notorious for charas, or hashish, and for illegal rave parties, and travellers may be offered drugs. Drugs are illegal in India and the penalties are serious, so keep firmly away from the drug scene and any illegal parties, however casually they are presented. Enjoy Kasol for its river, its cafes, its treks and the pilgrimage at Manikaran, and refuse the rest plainly, and your trip stays safe, legal and genuinely happy.
08Valley sense
Safety at Kasol and in the Parvati Valley
Kasol is a safe and friendly place; the cares are the drug scene to avoid, the river and treks, the roads and the weather.
- Avoid the drug sceneThe main thing to be aware of in the Parvati Valley is its drug reputation. Drugs are illegal in India with serious penalties, so decline any offers plainly, keep away from illegal rave parties, and do not let anyone draw you into that scene. Sadly, some travellers have got into difficulty, and even a few have gone missing in the valley over the years, so keep your wits about you and stick to the ordinary, legal pleasures of the place.
- Respect the river and the treksThe Parvati river is fast, cold and dangerous, so admire it but do not swim or wade in the strong current, and keep children well back from the water. On the treks to Kheerganga and beyond, use a guide if you are unsure, go with others rather than alone, watch the weather, wear good shoes, and turn back if snow or rain closes in. The mountains reward care and punish carelessness.
- Mind the roads and the altitudeThe Parvati Valley roads are winding and, in monsoon or snow, prone to landslides and blocks, so travel by day with a careful driver and keep a buffer in your plans. Kasol itself is at a moderate height, but Kheerganga climbs to around 3,000 metres, so take that trek gently, carry water and warm layers, and do not push on if you feel unwell at altitude.
- The ordinary careBeyond the drug scene, Kasol is a safe, friendly and welcoming place. Keep an eye on your belongings in the busy cafes and on buses, carry personal medicines, and tell someone your trekking plans before you lose signal. Solo travellers, including women, generally find the valley safe with normal precautions. With sense about drugs, the river and the weather, Kasol is a relaxed and rewarding mountain escape.
09Who it suits
Kasol for every kind of traveller
The valley suits backpackers, trekkers, slow travellers and pilgrims, with a little care over the season and the drug scene.
- Backpackers and young travellersKasol is a classic backpacker haven, cheap, relaxed and beautiful, with riverside hostels, easy cafes and a friendly travelling crowd from across the world. Come to slow down, meet people, and use it as a base for the treks. Just keep firmly clear of the drug scene, which is the one shadow over the traveller life here, and enjoy the river, the food and the mountains, which are the real draw.
- Trekkers and adventure seekersFor trekkers, the Parvati Valley is a gateway to some of Himachal's finest walks, above all the Kheerganga trek to a high hot spring meadow, and the atmospheric route to Malana. Come in the warmer, snow free months, use a guide if unsure, and give yourself a night or two on the trails. Kasol is the perfect base to rest between walks, with hot food and a warm bed by the river.
- Slow travellers and cafe loversFor those who travel to slow down, Kasol is made for you, days by the river, good coffee, books and easy company, with the mountains all around. There is no pressure to rush from sight to sight; the pleasure is in the pace itself. Add a gentle walk to Chalal or a visit to Manikaran, and you have a restful, restorative few days in one of the loveliest valleys in the Himalayas.
- Pilgrims and familiesFor pilgrims, the gurudwara and hot springs of Manikaran are a genuine and moving destination, easily reached from Kasol. Families with older children can enjoy the river, the cafes, the gentle walks and Manikaran, keeping to the lower valley and away from the drug scene, though the higher treks suit the fit and older. Handled with care and sense, Kasol is a relaxed and rewarding stop for many kinds of traveller.
10A sensible plan
A suggested Parvati Valley plan around Kasol
A graded plan: Kasol, Manikaran, Tosh and the Kheerganga trek over about four to six days, easily paired with Manali.
- Day 1: arrive and settle in KasolArrive in Kasol, likely off an overnight bus to Bhuntar and a short ride up the valley, and give the first day to settling in and slowing down. Find a riverside stay, rest after the journey, wander the little village, and spend an easy afternoon in a cafe by the Parvati. This gentle start lets the pace of the valley take over and sets up the walks and the trek to come.
- Day 2: Manikaran and ChalalGive the second day to the sights near Kasol. Ride the short distance to Manikaran for the gurudwara, the temple and the sacred hot springs, take the free langar meal, and soak in the atmosphere of pilgrimage. In the afternoon, walk the gentle half hour along the river to the quiet hamlet of Chalal. It is an easy, rich day of faith, river and forest, needing no hard climb.
- Days 3 to 4: the Kheerganga trekDrive up to the roadhead at Barshaini and trek to Kheerganga, a high meadow with a natural hot spring, climbing through forest and along the river to around 3,000 metres. Camp overnight at the top, soak in the hot spring under the stars, and walk back down the next day. This is the great adventure of the valley, moderate but rewarding, and the highlight of the trip for many.
- Days 5 to 6: Tosh, then on to ManaliGive a day to the higher village of Tosh for its views and slow charm, or to a visit to Malana with respect for its customs, then either relax a final day in Kasol or drive on to Manali and the Kullu valley to extend the trip. Over about four to six days this Parvati Valley plan, easily joined to Manali, gives the best of Kasol without rushing the mountains.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Kasol by road, an overnight bus or drive from Delhi or Chandigarh up the Parvati Valley through Bhuntar, about 30 km from the Bhuntar airport. The best time is roughly March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings snow and blocked higher roads, and the peak monsoon brings landslides. Fly to Chandigarh or Delhi and continue by road for the most reliable journey.
- Is Kasol safe, and what about drugs?Kasol is a safe and friendly place with normal precautions, and solo travellers generally feel comfortable. The one real caution is the valley's notorious drug scene and illegal rave parties. Drugs are illegal in India with serious penalties, so decline any offers plainly, keep away from that scene, and enjoy the river, cafes, treks and Manikaran instead. Handled with sense, the trip stays safe and happy.
- What are the main treks?The great trek is to Kheerganga, a high meadow with a natural hot spring, a day's walk from the roadhead at Barshaini up to around 3,000 metres, with camping at the top. The other famous route is to Malana, the ancient village with its guarded customs. Both are best in the warmer, snow free months, and a guide is wise if you are unsure of the trails.
- Can I visit Manikaran and Malana?Yes. Manikaran, about 4 km from Kasol, is a lovely and easy visit, with its gurudwara, temple and sacred hot springs, open to all with respect. Malana can be visited by trek, but you must respect its strict customs, not touching the villagers, their homes or the temple, on pain of a fine. Both are rewarding, one an easy pilgrimage, the other a fascinating, careful walk.
12For NRIs and OCIs
Planning Kasol from abroad
For overseas visitors, Kasol is an easy, laid back Himalayan valley reached through Delhi and Chandigarh, with the Manikaran pilgrimage nearby.
- Route in through DelhiFrom abroad, fly into Delhi and continue by road up to the Parvati Valley, or take a domestic flight to Chandigarh and drive on. No permit is needed for Kasol. Allow a comfortable few days for the long mountain drives and the treks, rather than rushing. Delhi and Chandigarh are the natural gateways, and an overnight journey or a broken drive brings you up into the cool green valley.
- A relaxed valley, and a pilgrimageFor an overseas visitor, especially a younger traveller, Kasol offers an easy, sociable and beautiful taste of the Indian Himalayas, cafes, river and treks, with a crowd from across the world. And nearby Manikaran offers a genuine pilgrimage, the Sikh gurudwara and sacred hot springs, a moving link to faith. Together they make Kasol both a relaxed escape and a meaningful stop, well worth the journey up the valley.
- Know the drug cautionOverseas visitors should be especially clear about the valley's drug reputation and illegal rave parties. Drugs are illegal in India, the penalties are serious, and being far from home makes any trouble worse, so decline plainly and keep away from that scene. Enjoy the ordinary, legal pleasures of Kasol, and there is nothing to fear; it is the drug scene, not the valley itself, that visitors must avoid.
- Come in the pleasant seasonTime an overseas trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon landslides and the deep winter snows that block the higher roads and treks. Carry warm layers for the cool valley and any trek, and good shoes. A little planning around the season and the roads makes for a smooth and rewarding valley trip from abroad.
13Practical for visitors from abroad
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry cash, expect weak signal up the valley, time the trip for the pleasant seasons, and keep clear of the drug scene.
- Carry cash from the plainsDraw plenty of Indian rupees in cash in Delhi, Chandigarh or Bhuntar before heading up the Parvati Valley, as cash machines are scarce and unreliable in Kasol and often fail on the treks. The stays, cafes, guides and camps are largely cash matters. For a visitor from abroad who cannot easily solve a money problem up a mountain valley, arriving with enough cash is simply sensible preparation.
- Expect patchy signalMobile coverage is uneven up the Parvati Valley and fades on the treks, so download maps and any details in a town, and tell family you may be briefly out of touch. An Indian prepaid SIM helps in Kasol but not high on the trails. Treat the disconnection as part of the mountain escape, and do not rely on a strong signal for payment or directions up the valley.
- Time it wellPlan the trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon, when landslides can block the roads, and the deep winter snows. This is both the loveliest and the safest window for the valley and the treks. Build a little buffer for the winding mountain roads and the weather, and keep the days unhurried after a long journey from abroad.
- Keep clear of the drug sceneFor an overseas visitor, the single most important safety point is to keep firmly away from the valley's drug scene and illegal rave parties. Drugs are illegal in India with serious penalties, and trouble far from home is trouble multiplied. Decline plainly, enjoy the cafes, the river, the treks and the Manikaran pilgrimage, and Kasol is a safe, relaxed and genuinely rewarding stop on a Himalayan trip.
14For visitors from within India
Kasol for Indian travellers
For Indian travellers, Kasol is an affordable, laid back Himalayan escape, rich in treks and the Manikaran pilgrimage, best with sense about the drug scene.
- An affordable Himalayan escapeFor travellers from within India, Kasol is a classic, affordable Himalayan getaway, easily reached by overnight bus from Delhi or Chandigarh, with riverside cafes, gentle walks and great treks up the Parvati Valley. Come to slow down, to trek, and to visit the sacred hot springs of Manikaran, and enjoy one of the most relaxed and beautiful valleys in Himachal without straining the budget.
- Do the valley, not just the cafeGive the Parvati Valley several days rather than a quick cafe stop: Kasol and its river, the Manikaran gurudwara and hot springs, the villages of Chalal and Tosh, and the fine trek to Kheerganga with a night at the hot spring meadow. Over about four to six days, easily joined to Manali, this makes a rich Himachal trip, far more than the traveller cafe scene alone.
- Keep clear of the drug sceneBe clear eyed about the valley's notorious drug reputation and illegal rave parties. Drugs are illegal with serious penalties, so decline any offers plainly and keep away from that scene entirely. Enjoy the river, the cafes, the treks and the pilgrimage instead. Kasol is a safe and friendly place for those who keep to its ordinary, legal pleasures, so simply refuse the rest and enjoy the mountains.
- Go in season and preparedVisit in the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, carry warm layers for the cool valley and any trek, take enough cash from the plains, and check the roads in monsoon or snow. Respect Malana's customs if you go there, and the river and the altitude on the treks. Come with an unhurried spirit, and Kasol is a relaxed and rewarding mountain escape.
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The valley of slow daysCafes by the river, and a hot spring in the clouds
Up in the Kullu hills of Himachal, where the Parvati river comes rushing green and cold out of the high mountains, lies the little hamlet of Kasol, which has become, in a quiet way, one of the most beloved traveller haunts in the Indian Himalayas. It is not a place of grand monuments. Its pleasures are gentle ones: a riverside cafe with good coffee and food from half the world, an afternoon with a book by the water, an easy walk through pine forest to the sleepy hamlet of Chalal, the cool clean air and the sound of the river. So many young travellers, and Israelis above all, have come here over the years that the signboards carry Hebrew and the cafes serve hummus, and the place has earned the nickname the Mini Israel of India. But Kasol is also a doorway to something older and higher. A few kilometres up the valley at Manikaran, pilgrims bathe in sacred hot springs beside a revered gurudwara and a temple, and eat food cooked in the boiling waters of the earth. And from the valley the trails climb into the mountains, to the ancient, guarded village of Malana with its own strange laws, and to the high meadow of Kheerganga, where, after a day's walk up through the forest, a natural hot spring steams under the open sky. To come to Kasol is to learn the pleasure of slow days by a mountain river, and then, when you are ready, to walk up into the clouds.