Khajjiar Travel Guide
The pleasant window is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings snow and cold, and the monsoon brings rain and landslide risk.
The best time to visit Khajjiar
The pleasant window is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings snow and cold, and the monsoon brings rain and landslide risk.
- March to June for the green meadowThe loveliest months at Khajjiar are roughly March to June, when the saucer meadow is green, the deodar forest is fresh, and the weather is mild and pleasant, cool and lovely after the plains. This is the classic time to see the Mini Switzerland at its best, to walk the glade and the forest and enjoy the easy activities. For most travellers, and especially families, this warm, green season is the ideal window for a Khajjiar and Dalhousie trip.
- Autumn for clear, quiet daysAfter the monsoon, into about September to November, the air is washed clean and the meadow and forest quiet, with clear mountain views and thinning crowds, a beautiful and calmer time to visit. The days are pleasant and the nights turn cold as autumn deepens, so carry warm layers. For crisp light, green turning to gold and a more peaceful glade than the peak season, these autumn weeks are among the finest of the whole year at Khajjiar.
- Winter snow, with careIn winter, about December to February, Khajjiar can be covered in snow, turning the meadow and deodars into a beautiful white scene that draws snow lovers. But it is cold, and snow can affect the forest roads from Dalhousie and Chamba, so check conditions and come prepared with warm gear. Winter suits those who want the snow and the quiet more than the green meadow and the activities, and who do not mind the cold and the occasional road delay.
- The green, misty monsoonThe monsoon, about July to September, brings rain, drifting mist and the greenest of meadows to Khajjiar, atmospheric and lush but often cloudy, with the views coming and going. The rain also brings a risk of landslides on the Chamba and Dalhousie roads, so travel needs flexibility and patience then. If you come in the monsoon, keep your plans loose, travel by day, and enjoy the green, misty beauty rather than expecting clear mountain panoramas.
Khajjiar is loveliest in the pleasant months of about March to June, when the meadow is green, and again in the clear autumn of September to November. Winter, about December to February, brings snow and cold that can affect the forest roads. The monsoon, July to September, brings lush green and mist but also landslide risk on the Chamba and Dalhousie roads. Whenever you come, carry warm layers, as the glade is cool once the sun drops behind the deodars.
How to reach Khajjiar, through the deodar forest
Reach Khajjiar by road, about 24 km from Dalhousie through the Kalatop forest, with Pathankot the nearest railhead about 95 km away.
Khajjiar is reached only by road, most often on a lovely drive of about 24 km from the hill station of Dalhousie, through the deodar forests of the Kalatop Khajjiar sanctuary, or a similar distance from the old town of Chamba. Buses and taxis serve the route, and many travellers come as a day trip from Dalhousie. The drive itself, winding through tall cedars, is part of the pleasure of reaching the Mini Switzerland meadow.
The nearest railway station is at Pathankot, about 95 km from Khajjiar, well connected to Delhi, Amritsar and other cities. From Pathankot it is a scenic road journey up into the hills to Dalhousie, Chamba and Khajjiar, by bus or taxi, of several hours. For most travellers Pathankot is the practical rail gateway to the whole Chamba valley, and the last stretch up to the meadow is always by mountain road.
The nearest airport is the small Kangra airport at Gaggal, well over 100 km away, with limited flights, so many travellers instead fly to Amritsar or Chandigarh and continue by road, or simply take the train to Pathankot. From any of these, the journey up to Dalhousie and Khajjiar is by road through the hills. Flying is rarely the simplest option here; the train to Pathankot and a drive up is usually easier and more reliable.
Khajjiar is small and easily explored on foot once you arrive, the meadow, the lake, the temple and the forest edge all within a short walk. Most people base at Dalhousie or Chamba and hire a taxi or take a bus to Khajjiar for the day, often combining it with the Kalatop sanctuary. A hired car for the Chamba valley gives the most freedom to link Dalhousie, Khajjiar and Chamba at your own pace, especially for a family.
Khajjiar is most often visited as an easy day trip from Dalhousie, about 24 km away through the deodar forests of the Kalatop sanctuary, or from Chamba a similar distance. The nearest railhead is Pathankot, about 95 km away, with the small Kangra airport further off, so most travellers take the train to Pathankot and drive up. Base at Dalhousie or Chamba, hire a taxi or take a bus to the meadow, and combine it with the forest sanctuary on the way.
The meadow, the lake and the old temple
The draws are the saucer meadow and Khajjiar lake, the deodar forest and Kalatop sanctuary, the old Khajji Nag temple, and the Mini Switzerland marker.
- The saucer meadow and the lakeThe heart of Khajjiar is the saucer-shaped meadow itself, a wide green glade ringed by tall deodar cedars, with the small Khajjiar lake at its centre and a curious floating island of matted vegetation upon it. Meadow, lake and forest together make one of the prettiest natural scenes in Himachal. To walk the glade, sit on the grass under the cedars and take in the three landscapes in one is the essence of a visit to the Mini Switzerland.
- The deodar forest and Kalatop sanctuaryKhajjiar sits within the Kalatop Khajjiar wildlife sanctuary, a protected belt of deodar and oak forest between Dalhousie and Chamba, rich in birds and Himalayan wildlife. The tall, fragrant cedars that frame the meadow are the same forest you drive through to reach it, and a short walk into the woods, or a stop at the Kalatop forest, is a lovely, cool complement to the open glade. The forest is as much the attraction as the meadow itself.
- The old Khajji Nag templeBeside the meadow stands the old Khajji Nag temple, dated by different accounts to around the 10th to 12th century, dedicated to the serpent god Khajji Nag and giving Khajjiar its name. With its distinctive dome and its blend of building styles, and old carved images within, it is a quiet, atmospheric shrine and the historic heart of the place. Visit it with respect, remove your shoes, and take a moment for the old faith beneath the famous meadow.
- The Mini Switzerland markerKhajjiar earned its famous nickname when a Swiss envoy declared it one of about 160 places in the world that resemble Switzerland and, on 7 July 1992, set up a marker giving the distance from Khajjiar to Bern, the Swiss capital. The little sign is a favourite photo stop, and a reminder of the real story behind the Mini Switzerland tag. It is a small thing, but it captures the gentle, green, alpine charm that gave Khajjiar its name.
The old Khajji Nag temple beside the meadow is a living shrine, not just a photo stop. Remove your shoes, behave quietly, follow local custom, and do not touch the images or enter inner areas uninvited, and ask before photographing worshippers or the sanctum. A visit made with that respect honours a faith much older than the Mini Switzerland fame, and adds a quiet, historic depth to a day on the meadow that most hurried visitors miss entirely.
The experiences that make Khajjiar
Walk the meadow and forest, try a horse ride or zorbing, visit the temple, and use Khajjiar within a Dalhousie and Chamba trip.
- Walk the meadow and the forestThe simplest and best thing to do at Khajjiar is to walk, around the green glade and its lake, and a little way into the cool deodar forest that rings it. Come early in the day, before the crowds and the stalls fill the meadow, and you can enjoy the quiet beauty that gave the place its Mini Switzerland name. A gentle stroll under the tall cedars, with the mountains beyond, is the loveliest and most peaceful pleasure here.
- Horse rides, zorbing and moreFor families and the energetic, Khajjiar offers easy activities on and around the meadow, horse and pony rides across the glade, zorbing rolling downhill in a giant ball, and paragliding in season, along with the usual stalls and photo spots. These are fun, especially for children, though they are also what makes the meadow busy and commercial in peak season. Enjoy them in the middle of the day, and keep the early morning for the quiet walks.
- Visit the Khajji Nag templeTake time for the old Khajji Nag temple beside the meadow, the historic heart of Khajjiar, dedicated to the serpent god who gives the place its name. Its dome, its blend of styles and its old carved images reward a quiet visit, and it adds a real sense of the valley's long history to a day that might otherwise be all meadow and activities. A respectful pause here is a small, rich part of the Khajjiar experience.
- Combine with Dalhousie and ChambaKhajjiar is best enjoyed as one stop in a wider Chamba valley trip, combined with the colonial hill station of Dalhousie, the old temple town of Chamba with its ancient shrines, and the Kalatop forest sanctuary. Seen this way, as part of a gentle two or three day loop through meadows, forests, hill station and old town, Khajjiar means far more than a single quick photo, and the whole valley makes a lovely, easy Himachal getaway.
Khajjiar is a small, very popular glade, and by the middle of a peak-season day the meadow fills with visitors, pony rides, zorbing and stalls, which can crowd its natural beauty. The simple secret is to come early in the morning, or off peak, when the meadow is quiet, the light is soft, and you can enjoy the walks and the forest in peace. Save the middle of the day for the activities, and the early hours for the Mini Switzerland calm.
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay at Dalhousie or Chamba, with a few options right at Khajjiar, and give the Chamba valley about two to four days.
- Dalhousie for the wider choiceMost travellers stay at the colonial hill station of Dalhousie, about 24 km away, which has the widest choice of hotels, homestays and guest houses, along with its own charm of old churches, forest walks and mountain views. From Dalhousie, Khajjiar is an easy day trip through the Kalatop forest. Basing here gives comfort, choice and a lovely hill station to enjoy in the evenings, and is the usual and sensible plan for a Chamba valley visit.
- A night at Khajjiar itselfThere is limited accommodation right at Khajjiar, a few hotels and a rest house on or near the meadow, so those who want to see the glade in the quiet of early morning and evening, after the day trippers leave, can stay a night there. It is simpler and quieter than Dalhousie, and rewards you with the meadow at its most peaceful. Book ahead, as options are few, especially in the busy spring and autumn seasons.
- Chamba for history and calmThe old town of Chamba, a similar distance on the other side, is another fine base, with its ancient temples, palace, museum and riverside old-town character, quieter and more historic than Dalhousie. Staying a night at Chamba lets you combine Khajjiar and the meadow with a real Himachali town of deep history. For travellers who love culture as much as scenery, Chamba is a rewarding and less touristy alternative base for the valley.
- Give the valley two to four daysKhajjiar itself is a half day to a day, but the Chamba valley rewards two to four days, enough to enjoy Dalhousie, the meadow and forest at Khajjiar, and the old town of Chamba, without rushing. Add the Kalatop sanctuary and a gentle forest walk or two, and you have a relaxed, green Himachal break. Do not treat Khajjiar as a lone stop; give the whole lovely valley a couple of unhurried days.
For most travellers the easy plan is to base at the hill station of Dalhousie, with its wide choice of stays, and visit Khajjiar as a day trip through the Kalatop forest, adding the old town of Chamba for history. Those who want the meadow at its quiet dawn and dusk can stay a night at Khajjiar itself, where options are few, so book ahead. Give the whole Chamba valley two to four unhurried days rather than treating the meadow as a single rushed stop.
A gentle guide to the cost of a Khajjiar trip
The journey and a hired taxi for the valley are the main costs; the meadow itself is free, though the activities are paid, and it helps to carry cash.
- Getting there and aroundThe main costs of a Khajjiar trip are usually the journey up from the plains, by train to Pathankot and a road transfer, or a hired car, and the local taxi to and around the valley. The meadow is easily linked with Dalhousie and Chamba by a hired taxi for a day or two, which is the biggest single cost for most visitors but well worth it for the freedom and comfort, especially for a family or group.
- The meadow is free, activities are paidWalking the meadow, the forest and visiting the temple cost nothing, so the natural beauty of Khajjiar is free to enjoy. The activities on the glade, the pony and horse rides, zorbing and paragliding, are paid, usually per ride or session, so budget a little for these if you or the children want to try them. Agreeing the price before you start any ride or activity avoids any misunderstanding on the busy meadow.
- Stays to suit the baseAccommodation costs depend on where you base: Dalhousie has the widest range from budget guest houses to comfortable hotels, Chamba is generally simpler and cheaper, and the few stays right at Khajjiar can be pricier for the location. Choose your base for comfort and budget, book ahead in the busy seasons, and remember that a day trip to the meadow keeps costs down if you prefer to sleep in the hill station or the old town.
- Carry cashCash machines are limited in the smaller hill places and can be unreliable, and the meadow activities, stalls and small eateries are largely cash matters, so carry enough cash from Pathankot, Dalhousie or a larger town for the trip. Mobile payment can fail where the signal is weak. As so often in the hills, a little cash in hand for rides, food, taxis and small buys saves trouble far from a working bank up in the valley.
Practical tips: the crowds, the roads and the meadow
A few facts help: come early to beat the crowds, check the season and roads, agree activity prices, and treat the meadow and forest with care.
- Come early to beat the crowdsKhajjiar is a small, very popular meadow, and it fills up by the middle of a peak-season day with visitors, pony rides, zorbing and stalls, which crowd its quiet beauty. The simple trick is to arrive early in the morning, when the glade is peaceful, the light is soft and the forest is cool, or to visit off peak. Save the busy middle of the day for the activities, and keep the early hours for the walks and the calm.
- Check the season and the roadsPlan around the season: the pleasant months of about March to June and the clear autumn are best, winter brings snow and cold that can affect the forest roads from Dalhousie and Chamba, and the monsoon brings rain and landslide risk. Check the road and weather conditions before you set out, especially in snow or heavy rain, keep your plans flexible, and travel the mountain roads by day with a careful driver for a smooth trip.
- Agree activity prices firstThe pony rides, zorbing, paragliding and photo props on the meadow are paid activities run by local operators, so always agree the price clearly before you start any ride or activity, to avoid any dispute afterwards on the busy glade. Choose reputable operators, check that any equipment looks sound, and keep an eye on children during rides. A little clarity on price and safety keeps the fun of the meadow free of any hassle.
- Treat the meadow and forest with careKhajjiar is a fragile natural glade within a wildlife sanctuary, so treat it gently: do not litter, carry your rubbish out, stay off any protected or fenced areas, and respect the forest and its wildlife. The floating island and the lake are delicate, and the meadow suffers from heavy footfall, so tread lightly and leave it as lovely as you found it. This simple care helps keep the Mini Switzerland beautiful for those who come after you.
Set your expectations kindly: Khajjiar is a small, lovely meadow, not a vast alpine landscape, and it gets crowded and commercial in the peak of the day and season. Come early or off peak for its real, quiet beauty, agree the price of any ride or activity before you start, treat the fragile meadow and forest with care, and combine it with Dalhousie, Chamba and the Kalatop forest. Seen this way, Khajjiar is a gentle, green delight rather than a letdown.
Safety at Khajjiar and in the Chamba valley
Khajjiar is a safe, gentle place; the cares are the activities, the mountain roads and weather, the forest and children, and the ordinary care.
- Take care with the activitiesThe meadow activities, pony rides, zorbing and paragliding, are generally safe but run by local operators of varying standard, so choose reputable ones, check that harnesses and equipment look sound, agree the price first, and keep a close eye on children during any ride. Do not feel pressured into an activity you are unsure of. Sensible care over which operator and which activity keeps the fun of the meadow safe as well as enjoyable for the family.
- Mind the mountain roadsThe roads to Khajjiar from Dalhousie and Chamba wind through forest and hills and, in snow or monsoon, can be affected by ice, landslides or blocks, so travel by day with a careful driver and keep a little buffer in your plans. The drive is beautiful but should not be rushed. Check conditions in winter and heavy rain before setting out, and there is little to worry about on this gentle, well-travelled hill route in good weather.
- Watch children in the forest and meadowThe open meadow, the lake with its floating island, and the surrounding forest are lovely but need ordinary care with children, keep them back from the water's edge and the lake, and within sight in the busy glade and the woods. The Kalatop sanctuary is a wild forest, so stay on the paths and do not wander far or feed any wildlife. With a normal watchful eye, Khajjiar is a safe and delightful place for families.
- The ordinary careBeyond the activities and the roads, Khajjiar and the Chamba valley are safe, gentle and welcoming, popular with families and easy for first-time hill travellers. Keep an eye on your belongings in the busy meadow and on buses, carry warm layers and personal medicines, and agree taxi fares in advance. Solo travellers, including women, generally find the valley safe with normal precautions. With simple hill sense, Khajjiar is a relaxed and rewarding green escape.
Khajjiar for every kind of traveller
The meadow suits families, couples, day trippers and nature lovers, with a little care over the crowds, the season and the activities.
- Families with childrenKhajjiar is a fine family outing, an open, safe green meadow where children can run, ride ponies, try zorbing and enjoy the space, with the forest and the temple close by. Come early to enjoy the quiet, keep an eye on children near the lake and during rides, and combine it with Dalhousie for a gentle family break. For a relaxed hill trip with easy activities and pretty scenery, the Mini Switzerland meadow is hard to beat for families.
- Couples and honeymoonersFor couples, Khajjiar and the Chamba valley make a soft, scenic escape, the meadow and forest, the hill station of Dalhousie with its old-world charm, and quiet walks among the deodars. Come early or off peak to enjoy the glade in peace, away from the crowds, and pair it with the wider valley for a romantic couple of days. It is a gentle, green, easy destination rather than a dramatic adventure, ideal for a relaxed romantic getaway.
- Day trippers and casual visitorsFor those short on time, Khajjiar is a perfect day trip from Dalhousie, an easy drive through the forest to the famous meadow, a walk, a temple visit and perhaps a pony ride, and back by evening. It packs a lot of gentle pleasure into a few hours. Just come early to beat the crowds, and you will see why the Mini Switzerland tag, for all its hype, does capture something of the glade's quiet green charm.
- Nature and forest loversFor nature and forest lovers, the real draw is not just the meadow but the Kalatop Khajjiar sanctuary around it, tall deodar and oak forest rich in birds and Himalayan wildlife. Take a walk into the woods, spend time at the Kalatop forest, and enjoy the cool, fragrant cedars as much as the open glade. Seen as a forest and meadow together, within a protected sanctuary, Khajjiar rewards those who love quiet nature far more than a quick photo does.
A suggested Chamba valley plan around Khajjiar
A graded plan: Dalhousie, Khajjiar and Chamba over about three to four days, an easy green Himachal loop.
- Day 1: arrive and settle in DalhousieArrive from Pathankot or the plains and settle into the colonial hill station of Dalhousie, giving the first day to resting after the journey and enjoying the town, its old churches, mall road, forest walks and mountain views. This gentle start eases you into the hills and sets up the meadow and the old town for the days to come. Dalhousie's cool air and easy charm are a lovely introduction to the Chamba valley.
- Day 2: Khajjiar and the Kalatop forestGive the second day to Khajjiar, driving out early through the deodar forests of the Kalatop sanctuary to reach the famous meadow before the crowds. Walk the glade and the lake, visit the Khajji Nag temple, try a pony ride or zorbing if you wish, and enjoy the forest, stopping at the Kalatop sanctuary on the way there or back. Return to Dalhousie in the evening, or stay a night at Khajjiar for the quiet dawn.
- Day 3: the old town of ChambaOn the third day, drive on to the old temple town of Chamba, with its ancient stone shrines, the palace and museum, the grassy Chowgan and its riverside old-town character, a real slice of deep Himachali history and culture. It is a rewarding contrast to the meadow and the hill station, and shows the valley's long past. Explore its temples and lanes at a gentle pace before returning to your base or moving on.
- Day 4: relax or returnGive a final day to a relaxed morning in Dalhousie or a last forest walk, some shopping and the mountain views, before beginning the journey back down to Pathankot and the plains. Over about three to four days, this easy Chamba valley loop, Dalhousie, Khajjiar and Chamba, gives the best of the region, meadow, forest, hill station and old town, without rushing, a gentle and green Himachal break for all kinds of traveller.
The real questions travellers ask about Khajjiar
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a Khajjiar trip.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Khajjiar by road, most often as a day trip of about 24 km from Dalhousie through the Kalatop forest, or from Chamba a similar distance; the nearest railhead is Pathankot, about 95 km away. The best time is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings snow and cold, and the monsoon brings rain and landslide risk. Take the train to Pathankot and drive up, and come early to the meadow to beat the crowds.
- Why is it the Mini Switzerland of India?Khajjiar earned the name when a Swiss envoy declared it one of about 160 places in the world resembling Switzerland and, on 7 July 1992, set up a marker giving the distance to Bern, the Swiss capital. The green saucer meadow ringed by deodar forest, with its little lake, does have a gentle alpine look. It is a small glade rather than a vast landscape, but the tag captures its soft, green, Swiss-like charm.
- Is Khajjiar crowded, and how long do I need?Khajjiar is a small, very popular meadow, and it does get crowded and commercial in the peak of the day and season, with pony rides, zorbing and stalls. Come early in the morning or off peak for its quiet beauty. You need only a half day to a day for Khajjiar itself, but give the Chamba valley two to four days to enjoy Dalhousie, the meadow and Chamba together, for a relaxed and rewarding trip.
- Is Khajjiar good for families and can I see snow?Khajjiar is an excellent family outing, a safe, open meadow with easy activities, best enjoyed early and combined with Dalhousie. In winter, about December to February, the meadow can be covered in snow, beautiful but cold, though snow can affect the forest roads, so check conditions and come prepared. For green meadows and easy activities choose spring or autumn; for snow, come in deep winter with warm gear and a flexible plan.
Planning Khajjiar from abroad
For overseas visitors, Khajjiar is a gentle, green Himalayan meadow reached through Delhi or Amritsar, Pathankot and Dalhousie, easy and family friendly.
- Route in through Delhi or AmritsarFrom abroad, fly into Delhi or Amritsar and continue to Pathankot by train or road, then drive up into the hills to Dalhousie, Khajjiar and Chamba. No permit is needed for Khajjiar. Allow a comfortable few days for the mountain drives and the valley, rather than rushing. Delhi and Amritsar are the natural gateways, and the scenic road up from Pathankot through the forests to the Mini Switzerland meadow is a gentle, beautiful introduction to Himachal.
- A gentle, easy hill tripFor an overseas visitor, especially a family, Khajjiar and the Chamba valley offer an easy, green and undemanding taste of the Indian Himalayas, meadows, forests, a colonial hill station and an old temple town, without high altitude or hard travel. It is a soft, scenic destination, ideal for relaxed sightseeing with parents and children. Paired with Dalhousie and Chamba over a few days, it makes a lovely, low-effort Himalayan break well suited to visitors from abroad.
- Come in the pleasant seasonTime an overseas trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon landslides and the coldest, snowiest depths of winter unless you specifically want the snow. Carry warm layers for the cool meadow and evenings, and good walking shoes. A little planning around the season and the roads makes for a smooth and rewarding Chamba valley trip from abroad, with the meadow at its green best.
- Come early and combine the valleyAdvise your family to reach the meadow early in the day for its quiet beauty, before the crowds and stalls arrive, and to see Khajjiar not alone but with Dalhousie, Chamba and the Kalatop forest, for a fuller picture of the valley. This gentle, green loop, easy for all ages, rewards an unhurried few days far more than a single rushed stop, and shows overseas visitors a soft, lovely and very accessible side of the Himalayas.
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry cash, expect patchy signal in the hills, time the trip for the pleasant seasons, and agree taxi and activity prices in advance.
- Carry cash from the plainsDraw plenty of Indian rupees in cash in Delhi, Amritsar or Pathankot before heading up to the hills, as cash machines are limited and unreliable in the smaller Chamba valley places, and the meadow activities, taxis, stalls and small eateries are largely cash matters. For a visitor from abroad who cannot easily solve a money problem up in the hills, arriving with enough cash for the trip is simply sensible and saves any awkwardness on the meadow.
- Expect patchy signalMobile coverage is reasonable in Dalhousie and Chamba but can be patchy at Khajjiar and in the forest, and foreign SIMs may not work well, so download maps and details in advance, and get an Indian prepaid SIM if you can for the trip. Treat the occasional lack of signal as part of the mountain calm. Do not rely on a strong connection on the meadow or in the sanctuary, and tell family your plans in advance.
- Time it wellPlan the trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon, when landslides can affect the roads, and, unless you want snow, the coldest depths of winter. This is both the loveliest and the easiest window for the meadow and the valley. Build a little buffer for the winding hill roads and the weather, and keep the days unhurried after a long journey from abroad.
- Agree prices in advanceFor an overseas visitor, agree taxi fares for the valley and the price of any meadow activity, pony ride, zorbing or paragliding, clearly before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding, and choose reputable operators. Prices on a busy tourist meadow can be quoted high to visitors, so a little clarity up front keeps things fair and friendly. With fares and activity prices settled in advance, a Khajjiar trip stays relaxed, fun and free of any hassle.
A green saucer in the deodar forest
High in the Chamba valley of Himachal, on the forest road between the old hill station of Dalhousie and the ancient temple town of Chamba, the tall deodar cedars suddenly open onto a wide, round green meadow, flat as a saucer, with a small still lake at its heart and a curious floating island of matted grass upon it. This is Khajjiar, and long ago a Swiss diplomat, struck by its gentle alpine look, declared it one of about a hundred and sixty places in the world that resemble his homeland, and set up a little marker giving the distance from this meadow to far-off Bern. Ever since, Khajjiar has been the Mini Switzerland of India. It is not a grand or dramatic landscape, but a small, soft, lovely one: green grass ringed by fragrant cedars, the little lake, the encircling forest of the Kalatop sanctuary alive with birds, and, at the meadow's edge, the old temple of Khajji Nag, the serpent god who gives the place its name, its dome and carved images centuries old. By the middle of a summer day the glade fills with visitors, pony rides and stalls, and something of the magic is lost in the bustle. But come early, in the soft morning light, when the meadow is empty and the mist still hangs among the deodars, and you see why they thought of Switzerland: a quiet green clearing in the great Himalayan forest, still and perfect, with the mountains standing guard beyond the trees.
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