Dal Lake Travel Guide
Dal Lake is beautiful in every season, but the comfortable window for a shikara and a houseboat is broadly April to October , when the days are mild, the gardens are in flower...
The best time to visit Dal Lake
Dal Lake is beautiful in every season, but the comfortable window for a shikara and a houseboat is broadly April to October, when the days are mild, the gardens are in flower and the lake is at its gentlest. Spring brings the tulip garden on the shore for a few weeks around April, and the fresh green of the willows. The high summer, roughly June to August, is the peak, when the plains are hot and Srinagar is cool and busy, and the floating gardens blossom with lotus. Autumn, around October and November, is quieter and lovely, the chinar trees turning gold. Winter is a different lake entirely: from about 21 December the 40-day Chillai Kalan sets in, temperatures fall to about minus 11 degrees Celsius, and parts of the lake freeze, so it is a season for snow and stillness rather than long shikara rides. Whatever the month, the lake is calmest and the light best in the early morning.
- April to October for the shikara seasonFor the classic Dal Lake experience, a shikara glide and a night on a houseboat with the willows and the far snow peaks, come between about April and October. Spring and early summer bring the gardens into flower and mild days, the peak months of June to August are busy and cool, and the autumn around October and November is quieter with the golden chinar. This long window is when the lake is at its gentlest and the houseboats at their most comfortable, and it suits families, couples and first-time visitors best.
- Catch the tulips or the lotusTime it to a bloom if you can. The Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden on the lake shore opens for only a few weeks around April, a short and spectacular season worth planning around. Later, around July and August, the floating gardens and the open water blossom with lotus, a quieter but lovely sight from a shikara. Both are weather-dependent and brief, so check the current dates before you fix your trip rather than assuming a fixed week.
From about 21 December, Kashmir enters Chillai Kalan, the harshest 40-day stretch of winter that runs to about 30 January, when temperatures can drop to about minus 11 degrees Celsius and parts of Dal Lake freeze over. It is a magical time for snow and quiet, and some houseboats stay open with heating, but it is not the season for long rides across open water, and the deep cold can curtail boating. Come in winter for the snow, not for a summer-style lake day, and book a houseboat that is genuinely heated.
How to reach Dal Lake and get around Srinagar
Almost everyone reaches Dal Lake through Srinagar, and the lake sits right on the edge of the city. The nearest airport is Sheikh ul-Alam International Airport, code SXR, at Budgam, about 14 kilometres from the lake and roughly half an hour by road, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other cities. For generations there was no direct train to Srinagar, but the Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla rail link has changed that: a Katra to Srinagar Vande Bharat Express began in June 2025, covering about 189 kilometres in about 3 hours, with chair-car fares from about 660 rupees, so many travellers now take a train to Katra or into the valley and continue from there. By road, Srinagar is about 290 kilometres from Jammu on National Highway 44, a long mountain drive through the Banihal tunnel. Around the lake itself, you move by shikara on the water and by taxi or autorickshaw on the Boulevard road that runs along the shore.
Sheikh ul-Alam International Airport (SXR) at Budgam is about 14 kilometres from Dal Lake, close to half an hour by taxi, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and other cities. Overseas visitors usually fly into Delhi and take a domestic hop to SXR. Use the airport prepaid taxi counter rather than the first driver who approaches you outside.
The Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla rail link now reaches the valley, and a Katra to Srinagar Vande Bharat Express started in June 2025, about 189 kilometres in about 3 hours with fares from about 660 rupees. By road, Srinagar is about 290 kilometres from Jammu on National Highway 44 through the Banihal tunnel, a scenic but long drive best done by day.
- Getting around the lakeOn the water you travel by shikara, the flat, cushioned paddle boat that is both taxi and sightseeing craft. On land, the Boulevard road runs along the lake with taxis and autorickshaws. If you are staying on a houseboat, the owner sends a shikara to fetch you from the ghat, so agree the pickup point and time before you arrive.
- Book the airport transfer aheadThe airport is where many commission games begin. Arrange your pickup with your houseboat or hotel in advance, or use the official prepaid taxi counter. Politely decline a driver who says your booking is cancelled or your houseboat is closed and offers to take you somewhere better, which is a common steer toward a place that pays him.
The lake, Char Chinar and the Mughal gardens
The great sight of Dal Lake is the lake itself, about 18 square kilometres of still water with five basins, ringed by the Boulevard, the houseboats and the mountains, and threaded with channels you can only reach by shikara. In the middle of the Lokut Dal basin stands Char Chinar, a small island crowned with four chinar trees, also called Rup Lank, a classic spot for a quiet halt and photographs. On the eastern shore rise the two most famous Mughal gardens, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh, terraced gardens of fountains, chinar avenues and flower beds laid out in the seventeenth century, each charging a small entry of about 30 rupees and open roughly about 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. Beyond these, the floating gardens, the dawn vegetable market, the Hazratbal shrine on the shore and the old city just beyond all sit within a shikara or a short drive, so a single lake can hold several days of gentle sightseeing.
- Char Chinar islandThe little island of Char Chinar, its four chinar trees reflected in the water, is the postcard heart of the lake. A shikara takes you out for a halt, a walk and tea. The notified fare from the Ghat 23, 24 and 25 stands is about 550 rupees, so you can check the printed rate before you agree. Go early or late for soft light and fewer boats.
- Nishat and Shalimar gardensThe Mughal gardens of Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh, on the eastern shore, are terraced water gardens of fountains and old chinars, entry about 30 rupees each and open roughly about 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. They pair naturally, sitting close together, and you can reach them by shikara across the lake or by taxi along the Boulevard, folding them into a Char Chinar morning.
Char Chinar, the Mughal gardens and the quiet channels of the lake can be strung into one calm half-day, either by a longer shikara or by shikara plus a short taxi hop to Nishat and Shalimar. Ask your boatman for a loop that takes in the island, the floating gardens and a garden stop, and agree the hourly rate from the notified card first, so the price is clear before you set off across the water.
The experiences that make Dal Lake
Dal Lake is a place you take part in rather than simply look at, and three experiences define it. The first is the shikara ride, an unhurried glide past the houseboats, the floating gardens and the vegetable sellers, best in the low light of early morning or evening. The second is the dawn floating vegetable market, where growers gather in their boats and trade produce from shikara to shikara for roughly about 5:00 am to 7:00 am, a working scene few visitors rise early enough to see. The third is a night on a houseboat, sleeping on the water with the mountains reddening at dawn. Around these, you can watch the floating gardens being tended, the reed-and-weed beds called Rad that farmers cultivate on the water, buy saffron and papier-mache from the shops that drift up to your veranda, and simply sit with tea and kahwa as the lake goes quietly about its day.
- Take the dawn shikara to the marketThe floating vegetable market is the lake's most authentic hour, and it needs an early start. Ask your houseboat or a boatman the night before to take you out for roughly about 5:00 am, when the growers gather to trade produce from boat to boat near the Nishat and Gudroo side. Wrap up warm even in summer, because the water is cold before sunrise, and carry small notes if you want to buy.
- Understand the floating gardensThe floating gardens, called Rad in Kashmiri, are not a show but a real form of farming: beds of matted reed and weed anchored on the water on which vegetables grow. A morning shikara glides between them, and around July and August the lake blossoms with lotus. Ask your boatman to slow down and explain, rather than paddling straight past, and you will see the working life behind the postcard.
On the lake, shops come to your shikara or houseboat veranda: boats selling saffron, dry fruit, papier-mache, shawls, jewellery and kahwa tea. Some of it is lovely and some is overpriced, and a few sellers work on commission with your boatman or houseboat. Enjoy the theatre, feel no obligation to buy, and if you do want saffron or a shawl, bargain hard and buy from a registered shop on shore where you can compare, rather than in the excitement of the water.
Where to stay: the honest houseboat picture
The signature stay on Dal Lake is a houseboat, a carved cedar boat moored on the water with bedrooms, a sitting room and a veranda over the lake, reached by shikara. The tourism department grades them into categories, broadly Deluxe, A, B, C and D, and a night can run roughly about 2,500 to 10,000 rupees or more, depending on the category, the season and whether meals are included. The romance is real, the sunrises unforgettable, and the hospitality often warm. The honest word is that comfort varies widely: heating, hot water, sanitation and cleanliness are excellent on the best boats and poor on the worst, and the difference does not always match the price. Some boats sit in quiet back channels, others in a busy row. If you prefer solid ground, the Boulevard and the hills above the lake have hotels of every class. For many travellers, one or two nights on a good houseboat and the rest in a hotel is the happy balance.
- Read the category, not just the photosHouseboats are graded Deluxe, A, B, C and D, but photos flatter every one of them. Ask direct questions before you book: is there proper heating and hot water, how new are the bathrooms, is the boat in a quiet channel or a busy row, and are meals included. A good Deluxe or A-class boat is a genuine delight; a tired lower-category boat sold at a high price is where people are disappointed.
- Winter needs real heatingIf you come in the cold months, heating is not a detail, it is the whole comfort of the stay. Traditional boats rely on a bukhari wood stove and heavy quilts, which can be cosy or can leave you shivering if the stove is weak or the boat is damp. Confirm in writing that the boat is properly heated for winter, and be wary of a cheap winter deal that promises warmth it cannot deliver.
The most common houseboat complaint is a boat that looked grand in photos but proved cold, damp or dated, sold at a high price through an agent who took a cut. Judge a boat on specific answers about heating, hot water and sanitation, ideally on a recent independent review, not on the label or the veranda picture. Paying more through a distant agent is no guarantee of a better boat; booking direct with a well-reviewed owner usually is.
A clear guide to the cost of a Dal Lake visit
A Dal Lake visit can be modest or grand, and the honest news is that the boatman's price is set by government notification, so you need not guess. The Tourism Department has fixed shikara rates at about 700 rupees per hour covering roughly three kilometres, with about 400 rupees for each extra hour, and a full-day ride of about six hours at about 2,700 rupees; point-to-point fares are fixed too, such as about 550 rupees to Char Chinar from the main ghats. Ask for the printed rate card. A houseboat night runs roughly about 2,500 to 10,000 rupees or more by category and season. The Mughal gardens cost only about 30 rupees each to enter. On top of these come your airport taxi, meals, and whatever you spend on saffron, shawls and papier-mache, where the real money is made or lost. Fix the shikara and taxi prices before you start, and a lake day stays both memorable and fair.
- The shikara has an official rateYou are not at the mercy of a made-up price. The notified rate is about 700 rupees per hour for roughly three kilometres, about 400 rupees for each extra hour, and about 2,700 rupees for a full day of about six hours, with fixed point-to-point fares such as about 550 rupees to Char Chinar. Ask the boatman for the printed rate card at the ghat and agree the ride against it before you step in.
- Where the money really goesThe shikara and the garden fees are small and fixed. The larger and more variable costs are the houseboat night, roughly about 2,500 to 10,000 rupees, the airport taxi, and shopping. Saffron, shawls and handicrafts are where a trip can quietly become expensive, often on commission, so set a shopping budget and buy from registered shore shops where you can compare, not on impulse from the water.
The single habit that keeps a Dal Lake trip fair is agreeing the price before the service, not after: the shikara ride against the notified card, the airport taxi at the prepaid counter, the houseboat rate and what it includes in writing, and any shop price by hard bargaining. The notified shikara rates and the small garden fees mean the honest cost of the lake is low; almost every overcharge happens because a price was left vague until the end.
Practical tips: cold, cash, connectivity and etiquette
A few practical facts make a Dal Lake trip smoother. The water is cold early and late even in summer, so carry a warm layer for dawn and evening shikara rides, and proper winter clothing from about November to March. Carry cash: many boatmen, floating sellers and small shops do not take cards, and mobile signal and internet can be patchy, especially for prepaid SIMs bought outside the valley, so postpaid connections are more reliable. Kashmir is a conservative, largely Muslim region, so dress modestly, ask before photographing people, especially women and at the shrines, and be sensitive during prayer times and around Hazratbal. Bargain politely but firmly, keep your bookings and prices in writing, and do not rely on a single agent for everything. Treat the lake gently too: it is a living, fragile waterbody under long restoration, so do not throw waste into the water. With these small habits, the practical side of a lake visit takes care of itself.
- Cash and connectivityCarry enough cash for shikaras, floating sellers, small eateries and tips, as cards are rarely taken on the water. Mobile coverage can be patchy, and prepaid SIMs from outside Jammu and Kashmir may not work in the valley, so a postpaid connection or your houseboat wifi is more dependable. Download maps and your bookings before you arrive rather than relying on a live signal on the lake.
- Dress and photograph with respectKashmir is conservative and largely Muslim. Dress modestly, cover up at the Hazratbal shrine, and always ask before photographing local people, especially women and the market traders. A little courtesy is warmly received and opens doors, while a camera pushed in someone's face is resented anywhere. Be mindful during prayer times and on Fridays around the shrines and the old city.
Dal Lake is a living waterbody under a long and costly restoration, shrunk and strained by decades of pressure. Do not throw plastic or waste into the water, keep your shopping and packaging out of the lake, and choose boatmen and houseboats that respect it. The floating gardens and the dawn market are working parts of a real ecosystem, not a stage set. Travelling lightly here helps keep the lake alive for the families whose whole life is lived upon it.
Safety, scams and the commission reality at Dal Lake
The honest safety picture at Dal Lake has two very different parts. Ordinary tourist safety on the lake is good: violent crime against visitors is rare, boatmen and houseboat families are generally hospitable, and the real day-to-day risks are commercial, not physical. The scams to know are the commission chain and the hard sell. Many distant agents and some drivers earn a cut on the houseboat they steer you to, so you may be pushed toward a boat that pays them rather than the one that suits you; airport touts may quote a cheap prepaid taxi of about 800 rupees and then insist your booking is cancelled and take you to their own houseboat or shop. On the water, floating sellers and boatmen work with shops on commission, and the sell can be relentless. The defences are simple: book direct with a well-reviewed houseboat, agree every price in writing, use the airport prepaid counter, decline the cancelled-booking story, and buy shopping only from registered shore shops. Separately, Jammu and Kashmir can see security disruptions, so check current advisories close to travel.
- How the commission chain worksWhen you book a houseboat through a distant agent or an online middleman, a commission is often built into the price, and the agent has reason to send you to a boat that pays well rather than one that is best for you. Drivers and boatmen may add their own cut. The cleanest defence is to book direct with a specific, well-reviewed houseboat, confirm the exact boat by name, and get the rate and inclusions in writing before you pay a deposit.
- The airport and cancelled-booking trickA common steer starts at the airport: a driver offers a cheap ride of about 800 rupees, then claims your houseboat is closed, flooded or cancelled and offers a better one, which is his commission boat. Do not believe an unsolicited cancellation. Confirm directly with your booked houseboat by phone, use the prepaid taxi counter, and insist on going to the boat you booked. The same trick appears with hotels said to be full.
Beyond the commercial scams, Jammu and Kashmir can experience security disruptions, curfews or the odd suspension of services at short notice, and home-country travel advisories on the region change. None of this makes ordinary tourist travel to Srinagar and Dal Lake unusual in calm periods, but it does mean you should check the current situation and your own government's advisory close to your travel date, keep your plans flexible, and stay in touch with your houseboat or hotel about local conditions.
Dal Lake for every kind of traveller
Dal Lake rewards very different travellers, and a little planning lets each get what they came for. For couples and honeymooners, a night on a good houseboat and a sunset shikara are quietly romantic, among the loveliest experiences in India. For families, the lake is gentle and endlessly interesting, with the shikara, the floating shops and the gardens keeping children happy, though small children need watching near the open water. For elderly parents, the lake is easy and beautiful, but choose a houseboat with simple, stable boarding rather than a steep step from a wobbling shikara, and keep the day unhurried. For photographers, the dawn vegetable market and the first light on the water are the prizes, worth the very early, cold start that others will skip. For solo travellers, Srinagar is welcoming and the lake sociable, and booking a reputable houseboat direct gives both comfort and company. Whoever you are, the honest advice is the same: book direct, agree prices, and let the lake set its own slow pace.
- Couples and familiesFor couples, a well-reviewed houseboat and an evening shikara are hard to beat for romance. For families, the lake is a gentle adventure, the shikara and floating shops delight children, and the gardens give them room to run, though the open water means small children need close watching on the boat and the veranda.
- Seniors and photographersFor elderly parents, pick a houseboat with easy, stable boarding and keep the pace slow, doing gardens by taxi rather than long paddles. For photographers, the dawn floating market and the first light are the reward, so arrange the roughly about 5:00 am shikara the night before and dress for the cold water even in summer.
A suggested plan for Dal Lake and Srinagar
The easiest way to enjoy Dal Lake is to give it two unhurried days from a houseboat or a lakeside base, and to fold in the wider Srinagar sights. On the first day, arrive, settle onto your houseboat, and take a long afternoon shikara across the lake to Char Chinar and through the floating gardens, ending with the sunset from your veranda. Rise very early on the second day, before about 5:00 am, for the dawn vegetable market, then rest, and later visit the Mughal gardens of Nishat and Shalimar, entry about 30 rupees each, by shikara or taxi, with the Hazratbal shrine and the old city if you have time. With a third day, add the wider valley: Gulmarg, Pahalgam or Sonamarg are each a day trip from Srinagar. Keep the shikara rides to the notified rate, agree the taxi fares first, and avoid packing the days too tightly, because the whole pleasure of the lake is its slow, still pace.
- Day one: settle and glideArrive, board your houseboat, and take a long afternoon shikara at the notified rate to Char Chinar and through the floating gardens, ending with the sunset from the veranda. Keep the first day light, especially after a long journey in, and let the lake ease you into its slow rhythm rather than rushing to see everything at once.
- Day two: dawn market and gardensRise before about 5:00 am for the floating vegetable market, then rest through the middle of the day. In the afternoon, visit Nishat and Shalimar gardens, entry about 30 rupees each, by shikara or taxi, and add Hazratbal or the old city if you have the appetite. With a third day, take a valley trip to Gulmarg, Pahalgam or Sonamarg.
Dal Lake itself is comfortably enjoyed in two days: one for the shikara, the island and the sunset, one for the dawn market and the gardens. If you want the wider Kashmir of Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg, give Srinagar three or four days total and use the lake as your calm base. Book the houseboat direct, hold the shikara to the notified card, and keep the pace gentle, and the plan looks after itself.
The real questions travellers ask about Dal Lake
Travellers planning Dal Lake tend to ask the same practical questions, and the honest answers are simple. Yes, the shikara has an official rate, about 700 rupees per hour for roughly three kilometres, so ask for the printed card. Yes, you can book a houseboat, but book direct with a specific, well-reviewed boat rather than through a distant agent, and get heating, meals and the rate in writing. Yes, the houseboats vary a lot in comfort, so judge on specific answers, not photos. The floating vegetable market runs at dawn, roughly about 5:00 am to 7:00 am, and needs an early shikara arranged the night before. You reach Srinagar by air to SXR, about 14 kilometres away, or now by the Katra to Srinagar train from June 2025. Srinagar and Dal Lake need no special permit, including for foreign nationals, though you should check the current advisory. And the best months are broadly April to October, with winter being the frozen Chillai Kalan rather than shikara weather.
- How do I avoid being overcharged for a shikara?Ask for the tourism department's printed rate card at the ghat. The notified rate is about 700 rupees per hour for roughly three kilometres and about 2,700 rupees for a full day, with fixed point-to-point fares such as about 550 rupees to Char Chinar. Agree the ride against the card before you step in, and you sidestep the made-up prices that catch first-timers.
- Should I book a houseboat through an agent?Prefer to book direct with a specific, well-reviewed houseboat, confirmed by name, with the rate, meals and heating in writing. Distant agents and online middlemen often build in commission and may steer you to a boat that pays them. Booking direct is usually both cheaper and better, and it avoids the cancelled-booking trick that pushes you onto a commission boat on arrival.
Planning Dal Lake from abroad
For an overseas or NRI family, the two things to settle before you book are the safety picture and the booking route. On safety, the honest word is that Srinagar and Dal Lake need no special permit, including for foreign nationals, and your houseboat or hotel completes the standard C-form registration for overseas guests; ordinary tourist travel here is common in calm periods. That said, Jammu and Kashmir can see security disruptions and your home country's advisory on the region changes, so check the current situation close to travel and keep plans flexible. On booking, the single best move from abroad is to book a houseboat direct with a specific, well-reviewed boat, confirmed by name with the rate and inclusions in writing, rather than through a distant agent who builds in commission. Fly into Delhi and take a domestic hop to Srinagar (SXR), about 14 kilometres from the lake, arrange your airport pickup in advance, and come between about April and October for the gentlest lake weather.
- No special permit, but check the advisorySrinagar and Dal Lake do not need a special permit, and foreign nationals are registered by the houseboat or hotel through the standard C-form. Ordinary tourism here is common when the valley is calm. Because the region can see disruptions and home-country advisories change, check the current situation close to your travel date and keep your dates a little flexible rather than rigidly fixed.
- Book the boat direct from abroadFrom overseas, book a specific, well-reviewed houseboat direct, confirmed by name, with the rate, meals and heating stated in writing, rather than through a distant agent who adds commission and may switch your boat on arrival. Pay a modest deposit, keep all confirmations, and arrange your airport pickup in advance so you are not exposed to the cancelled-booking steer when you land tired at SXR.
The simplest routing from abroad is your international flight to Delhi, then a domestic flight to Srinagar (SXR), about 14 kilometres from Dal Lake. Have your houseboat send a driver, or use the airport prepaid taxi counter. Time the trip for about April to October for mild lake weather, or come knowingly in winter for the Chillai Kalan snow with a genuinely heated boat. With the boat booked direct and the pickup arranged, a lake visit from abroad is smooth and deeply rewarding.
Money, connectivity and logistics for overseas visitors
The practical logistics for a foreign visitor to Dal Lake are manageable with a little preparation. Carry Indian rupees in cash, because shikaras, floating sellers and small shops rarely take cards, and keep small notes for tips and the market. Connectivity is the awkward one: mobile coverage in the valley can be patchy, and prepaid SIMs bought elsewhere in India, or foreign SIMs, may not work in Jammu and Kashmir, so rely on your houseboat wifi and download maps and bookings in advance. For money, the notified shikara rate of about 700 rupees an hour and the garden fees of about 30 rupees are small; the real spending is the houseboat, roughly about 2,500 to 10,000 rupees a night, the taxis, and any saffron or shawls, where you should buy from registered shore shops and bargain hard. Build your plan around an early start for the dawn market, keep at least two unhurried days for the lake, and treat any shopping on the water as theatre rather than obligation.
- Cash and SIM realitiesCarry rupees in cash, since cards are rarely taken on the water. Note that prepaid SIMs from outside Jammu and Kashmir, and many foreign SIMs, may not work in the valley, so a postpaid Indian connection or your houseboat wifi is more reliable. Download your maps, confirmations and any translation help before you arrive, and do not count on a constant live signal on the lake.
- Where your money goesThe lake itself is cheap: the shikara at about 700 rupees an hour and gardens at about 30 rupees. The larger costs are the houseboat, roughly about 2,500 to 10,000 rupees a night by category and season, the airport taxi of about 800 rupees, and shopping. Set a shopping budget for saffron, shawls and papier-mache, buy from registered shore shops where you can compare, and bargain firmly rather than buying on impulse from a floating seller.
A gondola at dawn, a garden the Mughals loved, and four chinars on an island
There is a lake in the lap of the mountains where a whole way of life is lived upon the water. They call it the Dal, and it is not one lake but five basins stitched together by channels, about eighteen square kilometres of it, ringed by the carved wooden houseboats that the British left as a fashion and the Kashmiris made their own. Before the sun is up, while the water still holds the cold of the night, the growers come out in their long boats, and in a corner of the lake near the gardens they gather to trade vegetables from boat to boat, passing cabbages and lotus stems hand to hand across the black water, and this floating market at dawn is the oldest and truest thing you can see here. When the light comes, the shikaras begin to move, flat and cushioned, poled along by a single oar, and they carry you out past the floating gardens the Kashmiris call Rad, beds of matted reed on which vegetables actually grow, out to a little island in the middle of the water with four great chinar trees on it, where you can sit with a cup of pink salt tea and watch the mountains. On the far shore the Mughal emperors laid their terraced gardens, Nishat and Shalimar, running their fountains down toward the lake, and in the evening the whole valley of water turns gold and then rose. And then, in the deep of winter, when the forty days of Chillai Kalan come down on the valley, the temperature falls below freezing and the edges of the Dal turn to ice, and the shikaras rest, and the lake sleeps under snow until the spring brings the tulips back to its shore. It is a fragile place, this lake, worn by the years and long under repair, and it asks of you only that you come gently, agree your fare, and let it keep its own slow time.
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