Sonmarg

When you reach Sonmarg, you stand in the Meadow of Gold, a wide green valley ringed by snow mountains in Kashmir. Silver streams run through the grass, and tall pine trees line the slopes. In summer the meadow fills with flowers, and the air stays cool and clean. Sonmarg is the last big stop before the road climbs to Ladakh, and it also serves as a base for the holy Amarnath yatra. For a mountain day out with your family, it is simply beautiful.

Sonmarg, which means Meadow of Gold, is a hill station in the Ganderbal district of Jammu and Kashmir. It lies on the road that connects Srinagar with Leh in Ladakh, just before the high Zoji La pass. The Sindh river flows through the valley, and anglers love it for trout. Sonmarg serves as a base camp for one route of the Amarnath yatra and as a starting point for several mountain treks.

May to September

Thajiwas Glacier is the main attraction. You can walk or take a pony ride up to the glacier, where snow stays even in summer. The green meadow around Sonmarg is perfect for a slow walk and a family picnic by the river. The clear Sindh river is a lovely place to sit, and some visitors try trout fishing here. The fresh mountain air and the open views make you want to stay longer.

For centuries this valley formed part of the old trade and pilgrim road between Kashmir and Ladakh. Traders, monks and pilgrims all passed through Sonmarg on their long mountain journey. Today pilgrims of the Amarnath yatra and travellers who love clean beauty come here in large numbers. The local Kashmiri people are warm and helpful, and they make you feel welcome.

Around Sonmarg you will find simple dhabas and hotel kitchens serving hot food. Kashmiri rice, rajma and warm vegetable dishes are easy to get. Try the local Kashmiri kahwa, a light tea with saffron and almonds, which is perfect in the cool air. Pure vegetarian food is available, and it is wise to carry some snacks and water for your day trips.

Sonmarg is a small mountain place, so most shopping happens back in Srinagar. Still, you can buy warm Kashmiri shawls, caps, gloves and dry fruits from the small shops here. Walnuts, almonds and local honey make good and light gifts to carry home. Buy a warm shawl if the mountain wind feels cold.

Sonmarg is about 80 km. from Srinagar by road, a drive of around three hours through pretty villages and along the river. The nearest airport and railway are at Srinagar. There is no local transport inside Sonmarg, so you hire a taxi from Srinagar for the day or the trip. Pony rides carry you up the short climb to the glacier when you do not wish to walk.

A little further on the Leh road you reach the high mountain lakes region. Vishansar and Krishansar lakes, which you reach by trek, are among the loveliest in Kashmir. Baltal, a short drive ahead, is the base for the shorter route of the Amarnath yatra. When the Zoji La pass stays open, it gives grand views of the bare Ladakh mountains.

Srinagar (about 80 km.): The summer capital with Dal Lake, Mughal gardens and houseboats. Baltal (about 15 km.): The base for the short Amarnath route. Gulmarg (about 120 km.): The famous meadow and ski town with a gondola ride. Kargil (towards Leh): The next major town on the road to Ladakh, when the pass stays open.

Sonmarg lies high in the mountains, so carry warm clothes even in summer and walk slowly to let your body adjust. The road can close due to snow or landslides, so keep your plans flexible. Always follow the advice of local guides, and check the current road and weather before you travel.