01Read this first
Is Imphal safe right now, and the honest current status
Manipur is recovering from serious ethnic violence that began in 2023. As of mid-2026 the valley is calmer, but this is not a routine tourist stop, and several governments still advise against travel. Read this before you plan anything else.
The honest current status, mid-2026Manipur saw serious ethnic violence from May 2023, President's Rule was imposed in February 2025, and it was revoked on 4 February 2026 when an elected state government took office. The valley around Imphal is calmer than the 2023 to 2024 peak, but the underlying conflict is unresolved, curfews and short-notice internet suspensions have continued in parts of the state, and restrictions can return without warning. Treat a visit as a serious, considered decision, not a casual add-on, and check the live official advisories immediately before you book and again before you travel.
- What the foreign offices sayAs of 2026 the US State Department rates Manipur Level 4 Do Not Travel, the UK FCDO advises against all but essential travel to the whole state, and Australia advises reconsider your need to travel to Manipur, its second-highest level, one notch below do not travel. The US is effectively saying do not go, the UK and Australia are a notch below that. If you hold one of those passports, weigh this carefully and note it may affect your travel insurance.
- Where risk is higher and lowerTravellers and community sources consistently report that Imphal city and the valley, Loktak, Moirang and Andro, feel calmer, while tension rises in the outskirts, rural and hill areas, and after dark. Sensitivities are higher around Republic Day on 26 January, Independence Day on 15 August, and elections.
- Curfew and internet, check liveCurfews and mobile-data or internet suspensions have been imposed at short notice during flare-ups. Do not assume the status you read weeks ago still holds. Confirm the current position with your hotel, a reputable local operator and the official advisories before you set out, and keep your plans flexible.
- Everyday health basicsDrink bottled or filtered water, take the usual care with street food, and carry any regular medication with you, as pharmacies may be limited during disruptions. Imphal has hospitals, but during unrest access can be affected, which is another reason to keep your itinerary conservative.
02Permits you must have
Permits for Manipur: the Inner Line Permit and the foreigner PAP
Manipur is a permit state. Every non-Manipuri Indian needs an Inner Line Permit, and since December 2024 foreigners again need a Protected Area Permit and must register on arrival. Sort this before you go.
- Indian visitors: the Inner Line PermitEvery Indian citizen who is not a Manipuri needs an Inner Line Permit, or ILP, brought in by Presidential Order in December 2019. The tourist Temporary Permit is valid about 30 days and costs about 100 rupees. Apply online in advance at the official portal, manipurilponline.mn.gov.in, or use the government self-service ILP kiosks, which run 24 hours at Imphal airport, Mao Gate and Jiribam Gate and issue the permit to your phone in minutes.
- Foreign visitors: the Protected Area PermitIn December 2024 the Ministry of Home Affairs reinstated the Protected Area Permit regime for Manipur, Nagaland and Mizoram. Foreign nationals now generally need a Protected Area Permit and must register with the district Foreigners Registration Officer within 24 hours of arrival. Rules here have changed recently and can change again, so verify the current requirement with your Indian mission when you apply for your visa and with the Manipur FRO before you travel.
- Keep documents to handCarry your permit, a photo ID and, for foreigners, your passport and registration paperwork at all times, as checkpoints are part of travel here. Your hotel or a reputable local operator can usually help foreigners with the FRO registration, so ask them to arrange it as soon as you check in.
- Reconfirm, do not assumePermit rules for the northeast have shifted more than once in recent years. Nothing on any travel page, including this one, replaces the official portal and the MHA position on the day you travel. Treat the permit step as the first thing you organise, not the last.
The right ILP portalThe working official ILP portal is manipurilponline.mn.gov.in, linked from the Manipur Tourism site. Be wary of lookalike sites and agents charging inflated fees for what is a roughly 100 rupee government permit you can get yourself online or at the airport kiosk in a few minutes.
03Season
The best time to visit Imphal
The comfortable window is about October to March or April, cool and clear in the valley and best for Loktak. The Sangai Festival falls in late November, though the current climate affects it.
- October to March: cool and clearThe valley is at its most pleasant in these months, cool and comfortable by day and cold at night in the depth of winter, so carry a layer. This is the best time for Loktak, for the city sights and for the migratory birds at Keibul Lamjao, usually seen from about November to March.
- April: still fine, warming upEarly spring is still workable, with warm days and green surroundings, before the rains set in. Do the open sights and the lake earlier in the day as the afternoons warm.
- May to September: the monsoonThe rains raise water levels at Loktak and slow the lake activities, and travel can be disrupted. It is lush and quiet but not the easiest time for a first visit, and hill roads can be affected.
- The Sangai Festival, with a caveatManipur's flagship Sangai Festival is held annually about 21 to 30 November, a ten-day showcase of the state's culture, crafts and the sangai deer. In recent years it has been scaled back or affected by the situation, so if you are planning around it, confirm that year's programme and the security position before you commit.
Plan around the calm season and the calm status togetherThe weather window and the security window are two separate questions here. October to March is the comfortable season, but the right time to actually go is when both the weather and the current advisory line up in your favour. Watch the official advisories through your planning and keep your dates flexible, because in Manipur the situation, not just the season, decides the trip.
04Air, rail and road
How to reach Imphal
Most visitors fly into Bir Tikendrajit International Airport. There is no direct passenger railway into Imphal yet, so the alternatives are long road journeys from Dimapur, Guwahati or Kohima.
- By air, the usual way inImphal's Bir Tikendrajit International Airport, code IMF, run by the Airports Authority of India, sits about 7 km south of the city centre and is served by major domestic carriers with flights from Kolkata, Delhi, Guwahati and other hubs. It is also one of the official ILP kiosk points, so Indian visitors can pick up the permit on arrival.
- By rail, not yet directThere is no direct passenger railway into Imphal at present. The nearest major railhead most travellers use is Dimapur in Nagaland, from where it is a long road journey over the hills into Manipur. A railway line to Imphal has been under construction for years, so check its current status if you prefer trains.
- By road, the long overland routesImphal connects by highway to Dimapur, Kohima and Guwahati, all long, winding hill drives that can be slowed by weather, roadworks or security checks. Shared Sumos and buses run these routes. If you go overland, build in buffer time and travel in daylight.
- Arriving with your permit sortedWhichever way you come, have your ILP arranged before or on arrival if you are an Indian visitor, and your PAP and registration plan ready if you are a foreigner. Checkpoints are normal on the approach roads, so keep documents accessible.
From the US, UK and Europe
Fly into Delhi or Kolkata, then take a domestic flight to Imphal. Remember the Protected Area Permit and 24-hour registration requirements for foreigners, and check your government's advisory before you commit.
From the Gulf and Southeast Asia
Route through Kolkata or Delhi and connect onward to Imphal by domestic flight. There are no direct international services into Imphal for tourists.
Within India
Fly direct to Imphal from Kolkata, Delhi or Guwahati, or reach Dimapur by train and drive over the hills. Indian visitors need an ILP, easily picked up online or at the airport kiosk.
05What to see
Kangla Fort, Ima Keithel and the valley's landmarks
Imphal's heart is the ancient Kangla Fort, the all-women Ima Keithel market and the historic Govindajee temple, with the great sights of the valley, Loktak and the war memorials, close by.
- Kangla FortThe ancient seat of the Manipuri kings on the bank of the Imphal river, Kangla is the historic and spiritual core of the city, with old temples, ceremonial gateways and quiet lawns. It is open roughly 9 am to 5 pm, and entry is generally free or a nominal charge, though ticketing details can vary, so reconfirm locally.
- Ima Keithel, the Mother's MarketIn the city centre, Ima Keithel, also called Nupi Keithel, is run entirely by women and is described as the largest women-run market in Asia, with thousands of women traders. It is the best place to feel the city's daily life, buy handloom and handicraft, and taste local snacks.
- Shri Govindajee templeA historic Vaishnavite temple beside the old palace, Govindajee is free to enter and open roughly 5:30 am to 1 pm and again about 4 pm to 8:30 pm. It is a calm counterpoint to the market and the fort, and the morning aarti is a gentle way to start a day in the city.
- Museums and the orchidariumThe Manipur State Museum, the RKCS Art Gallery and, a little out of town, the Khonghampat Orchidarium round out a city day. They are modest but give useful context on Manipuri history, art and the valley's remarkable plant life.
A compact city coreKangla Fort, Ima Keithel and Govindajee temple sit close together in the city centre and make a natural half-day on foot and by short auto hops. Dress modestly at the temple and the fort, ask before photographing traders at the market, and keep your permit and ID on you as you move around.
06The valley's great sight
Loktak Lake, Sendra and the floating national park
Loktak, about 48 km from Imphal, is the largest freshwater lake in the northeast, famous for its floating islands and huts and for Keibul Lamjao, the only floating national park in the world.
- Loktak Lake and SendraLoktak is about 48 km from Imphal in Bishnupur district, roughly a 1.5 hour drive, and the classic view is from the Sendra hillock over a stretch of water that looks like an inland sea dotted with round floating islands. The Sendra tourist home and cafeteria is the usual vantage point, and boating and water sports run from the Takmu water sports complex.
- Phumdis and the floating hutsThe lake's signature is its phumdis, floating islands of matted vegetation, and the phumsangs, the fishermen's floating huts. A boat ride out among them, arranged locally, is the experience people remember. Agree the boat price before you set off, as rates are negotiable.
- Keibul Lamjao National ParkOn the southern part of the lake, Keibul Lamjao is the only floating national park in the world and the last natural home of the endangered sangai, the Manipur brow-antlered or dancing deer. The Forest Department keeps watch towers and rest houses, and migratory birds are usually seen from about November to March. Sightings of the shy sangai take patience and luck.
- Staying by the lakeAccommodation near Loktak ranges from simple homestays around Moirang and Thanga to lakeside resorts and floating homestays with local meals. Standards vary and the floating options are basic, so set expectations accordingly and book ahead in the cool season.
Getting to Loktak from ImphalShared Sumos and taxis run from Imphal to Moirang, the nearest town to the lake, and shared tempos continue toward Sendra and Thanga. It is doable as a full day trip from Imphal, or as an overnight if you want the light at either end of the day, but as with everything here, confirm that roads and the situation are clear before you set out.
07The 1944 battlefields and the INA
The World War Two and INA history circuit
Imphal was a decisive 1944 battlefield and the place the Indian National Army raised its flag on Indian soil. The war cemetery, Red Hill and Moirang make a distinctive, sombre circuit.
- Imphal War CemeteryMaintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, this calm, immaculately kept cemetery in the city holds about 1,600 Commonwealth war graves of soldiers and airmen who died in the 1944 fighting, with a separate cremation memorial nearby to those of the Hindu and Sikh faiths. It is a moving, quiet place and a good starting point for the battlefield story.
- Red Hill, the India Peace MemorialRed Hill, or Maibam Lokpaching, about 16 km from Imphal on the Tiddim Road, was the site of fierce fighting between British and Japanese forces in 1944. War veterans built the India Peace Memorial to the Japanese dead here, and it remains a place of pilgrimage for Japanese visitors.
- INA Memorial at MoirangAt Moirang, about 45 km south of Imphal near Loktak, the flag of the Indian National Army was first unfurled on Indian soil on 14 April 1944 under Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. The complex holds a museum of INA letters, photographs, rank badges and memorabilia, and pairs naturally with a Loktak day.
- How to do the circuitThe war cemetery sits in the city, Red Hill is a short hop out on the Tiddim Road, and Moirang links with Loktak to the south. With a hired car or shared transport you can weave them into a one or two day arc that gives Imphal a depth few visitors expect.
Why this circuit is specialThe Battle of Imphal and Kohima in 1944 was one of the most important of the war in Asia, and Moirang is where the tricolour first flew on Indian soil. Doing the cemetery, Red Hill and Moirang together turns a stop that many treat as just a gateway into a genuine pilgrimage for anyone drawn to the war years or the freedom struggle.
08Areas and how long
Where to stay in Imphal and near Loktak
Base in the city for the sights, permits and transport, or near Loktak for the lake and the light. Standards are modest, so choose for location and reliability rather than luxury.
- Central Imphal: convenient and connectedThe city has a range of hotels from budget lodges to a few well known mid-range and business properties, walkable or a short auto ride from Kangla, Ima Keithel and the market. This is the practical base for the permit steps, the city sights and the transport hubs for day trips.
- Near Loktak: for the lake and the lightAround Moirang, Thanga and Sendra you will find homestays, a few resorts and the basic floating homestays on the lake. Stay here for a sunrise or sunset over the water and an early start on the sangai, but keep expectations modest, as facilities are simple.
- How many nightsTwo nights in Imphal covers the city core and the WWII history circuit; add a night near Loktak, or a long day trip, for the lake and Keibul Lamjao. Three to four nights is a comfortable, unhurried length that also gives you slack if the situation forces a change of plan.
- Book with the situation in mindChoose accommodation that will help with the FRO registration for foreigners and that can advise on current conditions. Prefer places you can cancel or move, because in Manipur a flexible booking is worth more than a bargain fixed one.
09What it costs
Imphal costs and how to budget
Imphal is inexpensive by Indian standards, but the honest budgeting truth is that costs here are less about tickets and more about the permit, hired transport and keeping plans flexible.
- The permit and the fixed thingsThe tourist ILP is about 100 rupees, a genuine government fee you should not overpay for. Many of the city sights, including Kangla Fort, Ima Keithel and Govindajee temple, are free or nominal to enter, so the museums and the fort are not where your money goes.
- Where the money actually goesThe real costs are your room, your flights and, above all, transport on the ground. Hiring a car with a driver for the Loktak or history circuit is the single biggest local expense, and it is worth paying for reliability over the cheapest shared option, especially given the conditions.
- Carry cashManipur runs largely on cash outside the bigger hotels. ATMs exist in Imphal but can be unreliable during disruptions, so draw enough before you leave a city, keep small notes for shared Sumos and boats, and do not depend on cards in the smaller towns.
- Value the flexible bookingThe smartest money habit here is to pay a little more for cancellable rooms and flights and a trusted local operator, rather than lock in the cheapest non-refundable option. Given how quickly plans can change, flexibility is the best value in Manipur.
10On the ground
Practical logistics: food, the dry-state rule, money and getting around
The everyday practicalities that make an Imphal trip smooth, from the dry-state rule and the wonderful food to shared transport, cash and connectivity.
- Manipur is a dry stateThe sale and consumption of alcohol is prohibited in Manipur, so do not plan on a drink in Imphal. Lean into the food instead, which is a real highlight, and save any alcohol for elsewhere on your wider trip.
- The food to seek outManipuri cuisine is distinctive and often fermented and herb-led: eromba, a mash of vegetables, fish and chilli, the light stew chamthong or kangshoi, bamboo-shoot dishes, and anything built on umorok, the fiery local king chilli. Ask for the local thali and eat where the market women eat.
- Getting aroundShared Sumos, tempos, taxis and local buses run from fixed points in Imphal, with regular shared transport to Moirang for Loktak. Fares and schedules shift, and a curfew can pause everything, so confirm the day's situation, keep small cash, and give yourself margin.
- Money, SIM and signalCarry cash, as ATMs can be unreliable during disruptions. Major mobile operators generally cover Imphal well for calls and data in normal times, but remember data can be suspended at short notice during unrest, so keep offline maps and key numbers saved.
11Who it suits
Imphal for every kind of traveller, and on access
Imphal suits the history-minded and the culturally curious best, and rewards patience. Here is the honest note for each kind of traveller in the current climate, including seniors and solo women.
- History and culture travellersThis is who Imphal suits most: the WWII battlefields, the INA story at Moirang, Kangla Fort and the all-women Ima Keithel are a rich, distinctive draw. Give yourself the history circuit and a lake day and you will find real depth here.
- CouplesA Loktak sunrise and the quiet valley can be genuinely romantic, and a short trip is realistic in calm periods. Keep it flexible, stay near the lake for a night, and watch the current status closely before you commit to specific dates.
- Families with childrenFeasible in calm times with a conservative, city-and-lake plan, but given the volatility this is not the moment for an ambitious family itinerary into the hills. If you come, keep to the valley, keep days short, and stay flexible.
- Senior travellers and on accessibilityDoable with planning: the city sights are flat and close together, the ILP can be arranged online in advance to skip the queue, and a hired car for Loktak and the history circuit spares the shared-Sumo scramble. Avoid the monsoon, keep days unhurried, and factor in that facilities are basic and disruptions possible.
- Solo female travellersTravellers report Imphal city itself as generally calm and people as warm, but the wider security picture and the do-not-travel advisories mean extra caution is warranted. Stick to the valley and daylight, use trusted transport and accommodation, keep someone informed of your plans, and monitor the situation closely.
- PhotographersThe floating islands of Loktak, the colour of Ima Keithel and the stillness of the war cemetery are memorable subjects. Ask before photographing people, avoid photographing security forces or checkpoints, and be sensitive that this is a place still living through a hard chapter.
12Suggested plans
A suggested Imphal itinerary
How to shape two to four unhurried days around the city core, the lake and the war history, with the flexibility the current situation demands.
- Day one, the city coreSort your permit if you have not already, then spend the day on foot and by short auto hops around Kangla Fort, Ima Keithel and Govindajee temple, with the Imphal War Cemetery in the afternoon to start the 1944 story. Eat a Manipuri thali where the market women eat.
- Day two, Loktak and MoirangDrive out to Loktak, take in the view from Sendra and a boat among the phumdis, then link the INA Memorial at Moirang and, if you have time and patience, Keibul Lamjao for the sangai. Return to Imphal, or overnight near the lake for the light.
- Day three, Red Hill and slower timeAdd Red Hill and the India Peace Memorial on the Tiddim Road, a museum or the orchidarium, and time simply to absorb the valley. A third day turns a rushed sample into a proper visit and gives you slack if the situation shifts.
- The flexible versionBecause plans can change here, build your itinerary in modules you can drop or reorder rather than a fixed chain. If a curfew or a road closure lands, you want to be able to swap a lake day for a city day without losing the whole trip.
Keep a buffer dayThe single most useful planning habit for Imphal is to keep a spare buffer day and a flexible booking. Roads, curfews and the wider situation can all interrupt a tight plan at short notice, so a trip built with slack in it is far more likely to come off, and far less stressful, than one scheduled to the hour.
- Is it safe and open right now?The valley is calmer than the 2023 to 2024 peak and an elected government returned in February 2026, but the conflict is unresolved and the US still rates it do not travel, with the UK at essential travel only and Australia at reconsider your need to travel. It is open in a limited sense, but this is a considered decision, not a casual one. Check the live advisory first.
- Do I really need a permit?Yes. Every non-Manipuri Indian needs an Inner Line Permit, about 100 rupees, from manipurilponline.mn.gov.in or the airport kiosk. Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit, reinstated in December 2024, and must register with the FRO within 24 hours of arrival. Do not skip this step.
- How far is Loktak, and can I do it in a day?Loktak is about 48 km from Imphal, roughly a 1.5 hour drive, so yes, it works as a full day trip, ideally paired with Moirang. Overnight near the lake if you want the sunrise, but confirm the roads and the situation are clear first.
- Can I get a drink in Imphal?No. Manipur is a dry state and alcohol is prohibited, so plan on no drink in Imphal. The food more than makes up for it, so treat it as a food-and-culture trip.
- How do I get to Ukhrul, Moreh or Dimapur?Shared Sumos and buses run from Imphal to Ukhrul, to the border town of Moreh and to Dimapur in Nagaland, from fixed departure points. These are long hill drives, so travel by day, confirm the current road and security status, and budget for a hired car if you want reliability over the cheapest shared seat.
- Is it worth the effort given everything?For a history-minded or culturally curious traveller, in a calm window and with the permits and advisories respected, Imphal offers something few places do: the 1944 battlefields, the INA story, a floating national park and Asia's largest women-run market. For a first-time, casual India trip, this is not the moment; there are gentler stops to start with.
14Foreign and NRI travellers
Planning Imphal from abroad: permits and the advisory reality
For a foreign or NRI traveller, Imphal is a serious, considered trip. The permit and advisory picture matters more than the sightseeing list, so start there.
- Check your government's advisory firstAs of 2026 the US rates Manipur Level 4 Do Not Travel, the UK advises against all but essential travel, and Australia advises reconsider your need to travel, its second-highest level. Read your own foreign office's current page before anything else, and understand it may affect your travel insurance and any consular help if things go wrong.
- The Protected Area Permit and registrationSince December 2024 foreigners generally need a Protected Area Permit for Manipur and must register with the district Foreigners Registration Officer within 24 hours of arrival. Sort the PAP when you apply for your visa through your Indian mission, and have your hotel help with the registration as soon as you arrive.
- It is a dry stateAlcohol is prohibited in Manipur, so do not plan on a drink. Enjoy the distinctive Manipuri food instead, and keep any alcohol for other parts of your India trip.
- Go with a trusted operatorIn the current climate a reputable local operator who knows the day-to-day situation, handles your registration and can adjust plans quickly is worth far more than a self-guided saving. This is the kind of trip where local knowledge is a safety measure, not a luxury.
Verify before you commit moneyThe permit rules and the advisory levels for Manipur have both changed recently and can change again. Nothing on any travel page, including this one, replaces the live official sources. Before you book flights or a tour, open your government's advisory, the Manipur ILP portal and confirm the PAP position with your Indian mission, and only then decide.
15Money, connectivity and timing
Money, SIM and timing for foreign visitors
The practical basics an overseas traveller needs for a permit state that runs largely on cash, where connectivity can be suspended and where the timing of the trip depends on the situation as much as the season.
- Carry cash, do not rely on cardsManipur runs largely on cash outside the bigger hotels, and ATMs in Imphal can be unreliable during disruptions. Draw enough cash before you fly in, keep small notes for shared Sumos, boats and market buys, and treat cards and UPI as a bonus rather than a plan.
- Get a SIM before you arrivePick up an Indian tourist SIM or an eSIM in Delhi or Kolkata rather than hunting for one in Imphal. In normal times coverage in the city is fine for maps and calls, but remember mobile data and internet can be suspended at short notice during unrest, so save offline maps and key numbers before you travel.
- How long, and where it fitsGive Imphal about two to four days: the city core and the war history, plus a Loktak day. It does not slot casually into a wider India trip the way a mainstream stop does, because of the permits and the advisory picture, so plan it as a deliberate, self-contained leg rather than a quick detour.
- Time it to the situation, not just the seasonOctober to March is the comfortable weather window, but for an overseas visitor the deciding factor is the security position and your government's advisory on the dates you are considering. Watch the official pages through your planning, and be ready to move or cancel if the picture changes.
Insurance and consular realityBecause the US and UK advise against travel to Manipur and Australia advises reconsider your need to travel, a standard travel insurance policy may not cover a trip taken against or contrary to your government's advice, and consular help can be limited in a conflict-affected state. Check your policy wording, as many insurers void cover for a reconsider-your-need-to-travel or do-not-travel area, and register with your embassy's traveller service before you go, so you understand exactly what protection you do and do not have.
16The northeast trip
Imphal for Indian travellers: the ILP and the practical plan
For an Indian traveller, Imphal is a permit-and-flexibility trip: get the ILP in minutes, fly in, and plan a conservative valley itinerary that respects the current situation.
- Get your ILP firstAs a non-Manipuri Indian you need an Inner Line Permit, about 100 rupees. Do it online at manipurilponline.mn.gov.in before you fly, or use the 24-hour self-service kiosk at Imphal airport on arrival. Do not pay an agent an inflated fee for a permit you can get yourself in minutes.
- Fly in, keep it flexibleImphal is well connected by domestic flights from Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati. Book cancellable or changeable fares where you can, because the situation, more than the season, decides whether a plan holds here.
- A conservative valley planKeep to the calmer valley, Imphal city, Loktak, Moirang and the war memorials, rather than an ambitious hill-district loop, and travel by day. Confirm the current status with your hotel and a local operator before each day's plan, and keep a buffer day.
- Pair it thoughtfullySome travellers combine Imphal with Kohima and Dimapur in Nagaland or a wider northeast loop. Those are long hill drives with their own permit and road considerations, so plan them carefully, in daylight, and only when the situation across the route is calm.
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Where the tricolour first flewMoirang, 14 April 1944
Of all the places that tell India's story, few are as unexpected as a small town beside Loktak Lake. It was at Moirang, about 45 km south of Imphal, that the flag of the Indian National Army was first unfurled on Indian soil on 14 April 1944, under the leadership of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, as the INA and Japanese forces pushed into Manipur during the Second World War. The offensive was ultimately halted at the Battle of Imphal and Kohima, one of the hardest-fought campaigns of the war in Asia, and today the INA Memorial complex at Moirang keeps letters, photographs, rank badges and a statue of Bose, while the immaculate Imphal War Cemetery and the India Peace Memorial at Red Hill remember the soldiers of both sides. To stand at Moirang, with the floating islands of Loktak beyond, is to feel how much of the twentieth century turned on this quiet valley.