Living Root Bridges Travel Guide
The clear window is the drier months, October to March , when the steps are safer and the streams and pools run clear; the monsoon is green and dramatic but very slippery.
The best time to see the living root bridges
The clear window is the drier months, October to March, when the steps are safer and the streams and pools run clear; the monsoon is green and dramatic but very slippery.
- October to March for safer, clearer trekkingThe best time to visit the living root bridges is the drier post-monsoon and winter months, October to March, when the fierce Meghalaya rain has eased, the long flights of stone steps down to Nongriat are far less slippery, and the streams and the pool at Rainbow Falls run clear and blue. The air is cool and pleasant for the hard climb. For most travellers, and certainly for anyone attempting the demanding Nongriat double-decker trek, these drier months are the sensible and rewarding choice for the living root bridges of Meghalaya.
- The monsoon is green and dramatic but hardThe monsoon, roughly June to September, is when Cherrapunji earns its name as one of the wettest places on earth: the forest is vividly green, the waterfalls thunder, and the living bridges show exactly why they outlast wooden ones. But the stone steps become genuinely treacherous and slippery, leeches come out in the wet forest, and views are often lost in cloud and heavy rain. Come in the monsoon only if you are prepared and careful, and consider the easy Riwai bridge rather than the long Nongriat descent in the rains.
- Shoulder months and clear poolsThe edges of the dry season, late September into October and again in March, can be lovely, with the forest still green from the rains but the steps drying out and the crowds thinner than in peak winter. If you want the turquoise pool at Rainbow Falls at its clearest and bluest, aim for the drier heart of the season once the heaviest rain has washed through and settled. Timing your trek for a run of dry days, whenever you come, is the single best thing you can do for the living root bridges.
- Start early whatever the seasonWhichever month you choose, start the Nongriat trek early in the morning. The descent and climb take several hours, the light fades in the deep valley well before it does on the ridge, and you want to reach the double-decker bridge, and Rainbow Falls if you are going on, with daylight to spare for the long climb back. An early start also means cooler air for the hard ascent and quieter bridges for photographs. For both the hard Nongriat trek and the easy Riwai walk, the early hours are the best of the day.
The living root bridges are best in the drier months, October to March, when the stone steps down to Nongriat are safer, the streams and Rainbow Falls run clear, and the air is cool for the hard climb. The monsoon, roughly June to September, is green and dramatic and shows why the living bridges outlast timber ones, but the steps turn very slippery and leeches appear in the wet forest. Whatever the season, start early to have daylight in hand for the long climb back, and in the rains lean towards the easy Riwai bridge.
How to reach the living root bridges
Base yourself in Cherrapunji (Sohra) or Shillong; the Nongriat double-decker is a trek from Tyrna village, while the easy Riwai bridge sits near Mawlynnong.
The nearest airport is at Shillong, the Meghalaya capital, about 50 to 60 km from Cherrapunji, with limited flights, while the larger airport and the nearest major railhead are at Guwahati in Assam, about 145 to 180 km away, with wide connections across India. Most travellers fly or take the train to Guwahati, then drive up into the hills to Shillong and on to Cherrapunji (Sohra), the base for the root bridges. The scenic hill drive up to Sohra is a fine start to a Meghalaya trip, climbing from the Assam plains into the cool, wet Khasi hills.
The famous double-decker bridge at Nongriat is not reached by road at all: you drive from Cherrapunji to Tyrna village, about 12 to 15 km and roughly 30 to 45 minutes by taxi, and from the Tyrna trailhead you walk down about 3,000 to 3,500 steps to Nongriat, taking about 1.5 to 2 hours down and about 2.5 to 4 hours back up. This is a genuinely demanding trek on steep stone steps, not a gentle stroll, so plan it as the main event of your day and start early with good shoes.
For the easy living root bridge, head to Riwai village near Mawlynnong, the famously clean Khasi village, about a two to three hour drive from Shillong. The Riwai single-decker bridge, also called Jingmaham, is reached by a gentle walk of only about 300 metres from the parking area, taking around an hour in all with time to linger, and open roughly 9 am to 5 pm. This is the option to choose if the Nongriat steps are too much, and it pairs naturally with Mawlynnong village and the nearby India-Bangladesh viewpoint.
There is little public transport to the trailheads, so most travellers hire a taxi or a shared cab from Shillong or Cherrapunji for the day, or join a small tour. Fix the fare and the waiting time before you set off, as the drivers wait several hours while you trek at Nongriat. Roads in the hills are winding and can be slow, especially in the rains, so allow generous time. A local driver who knows the Sohra area, and a local guide for the longer treks, take the friction out of reaching these scattered, out-of-the-way bridges.
Reach the region via Guwahati (about 145 to 180 km, the main airport and railhead) or Shillong airport (about 50 to 60 km from Cherrapunji), then base yourself at Cherrapunji (Sohra) or Shillong. The Nongriat double-decker is a hard trek of about 3,000 to 3,500 steps from Tyrna village, about 12 to 15 km from Sohra, taking roughly 1.5 to 2 hours down and 2.5 to 4 hours up. The easy Riwai single-decker near Mawlynnong is a gentle 300 metre walk instead. Hire a taxi for the day and fix the fare and waiting time before you set off.
The double-decker, the single bridges and Rainbow Falls
The star is the Umshiang double-decker at Nongriat; the easy single-decker at Riwai and other village bridges, plus Rainbow Falls, complete the picture.
- The Nongriat double-decker (Umshiang)The great draw is the double-decker root bridge, the Umshiang bridge at Nongriat, where two spans of living Ficus elastica root have been grown one above the other across the stream, a rare and astonishing piece of living Khasi engineering. Standing on the mossy, root-woven deck deep in the green valley, with the river running below and the forest rising all around, is the signature experience of the living root bridges. It is the hard-won reward at the bottom of the long descent from Tyrna, and for many travellers the highlight of a whole Meghalaya trip.
- The easy single-decker at RiwaiThe single-decker root bridge at Riwai, near the clean village of Mawlynnong, is the gentle, accessible face of the same tradition: a single living span of trained rubber-tree roots, said to be around 300 years old, reached by an easy walk of about 300 metres. It is beautiful, uncrowded early in the day, and open to everyone, including families with children and older travellers who cannot manage the Nongriat steps. Seeing a living root bridge close up without a punishing trek makes Riwai one of the most rewarding easy stops in all of Meghalaya.
- Other bridges along the wayThe living root bridges are not just two famous spans but a whole scattered tradition. On the Nongriat trek you cross the smaller single-root Nongthymmai bridge, and other single-decker bridges are grown near villages across the Khasi and Jaintia hills, some little-visited and reached on longer walks. Part of the wonder is realising these are working bridges the villages still use and still tend. Beyond the two famous ones, the wider landscape of village root bridges rewards the curious traveller with quieter, equally moving encounters with this living heritage of the hills.
- Rainbow Falls beyond NongriatFor strong trekkers, Rainbow Falls lies about 3 km beyond Nongriat, roughly 2 hours further down the valley and about 1.5 hours back, a tall waterfall dropping into a clear turquoise pool where a rainbow often hangs in the spray on a sunny morning. It is one of the loveliest spots in the region, but it turns the Nongriat trek into a long, hard day, so it is best reached by staying overnight at a Nongriat homestay and setting out early. If your legs and the daylight allow, Rainbow Falls is a magnificent reward beyond the double-decker bridge.
The must-see is the Umshiang double-decker root bridge at Nongriat, two living spans grown one above the other, reached by the hard trek from Tyrna. The easy counterpart is the single-decker Riwai bridge near Mawlynnong, about 300 years old and reached by a gentle 300 metre walk that families and seniors can manage. Along the Nongriat trail you also cross the smaller Nongthymmai bridge, and strong trekkers can push on about 3 km more to Rainbow Falls and its turquoise pool. Between them these give both the demanding and the gentle faces of the living root bridges.
The experiences that make the root bridges
Take on the Nongriat trek, stay a night in the valley, walk the easy Riwai bridge, and watch living Khasi engineering up close.
- Take on the Nongriat trek honestlyThe signature experience is the trek itself: about 3,000 to 3,500 steep stone steps down from Tyrna to Nongriat, crossing swaying steel wire bridges over the river, passing the smaller Nongthymmai bridge, and arriving at the double-decker deep in the green valley. It is genuinely strenuous, hard on the knees going down and lungs coming up, and it is honest to say so. But it is also one of the most rewarding treks in India, and reaching that living bridge on your own feet, earned step by step, is a memory that stays with you long after the leg-ache fades.
- Stay a night in the valleyOne of the best decisions you can make is to stay overnight at a simple Nongriat homestay such as Serene Homestay or Travellers' Nest, rather than rushing down and back in a single hard day. A night in the valley lets your legs recover, lets you sit quietly by the bridge after the day-trippers have climbed out, and lets you reach Rainbow Falls early the next morning in the best light. It is basic, warm and friendly, run by local Khasi families, and turns a punishing day trip into a gentler, richer two-day experience of Nongriat.
- Walk the easy Riwai bridgeFor a gentle, joyful encounter with the living bridges, walk the easy single-decker at Riwai near Mawlynnong, only about 300 metres from the parking, and simply stand on the centuries-old living span with the stream below. Combine it with a wander through spotless Mawlynnong village, its flowers and bambo dustbins, and the nearby viewpoint over the plains of Bangladesh. This easy half-day is open to everyone, needs no fitness, and still delivers the wonder of a working bridge grown from living roots, making it the perfect experience for families, seniors and anyone short on time.
- Watch living engineering up closeWherever you go, take time to really look at how the bridges are made: aerial roots of the Ficus elastica rubber tree coaxed across the stream over many years, often decades, guided and knotted and allowed to fuse until the living roots bear the weight of people crossing. Village elders still tend and strengthen them, and the roots keep growing, so the bridges get stronger with age rather than rotting like timber. Understanding this slow, patient, generational craft, a living conversation between people and trees, is what turns a photo stop into a genuinely moving experience.
The root bridges offer experiences for every appetite: take on the hard Nongriat trek of about 3,000 to 3,500 steps to the double-decker, ideally staying a night at a Nongriat homestay so you recover and reach Rainbow Falls early; or choose the gentle 300 metre walk to the easy Riwai bridge near Mawlynnong, open to families and seniors. Wherever you go, look closely at how the living Ficus elastica roots have been trained over decades into a working bridge that grows stronger with age. Start early, respect the villages, and let the wonder of living engineering sink in.
Where to stay for the living root bridges
Base at Cherrapunji (Sohra) or Shillong for comfort, or stay overnight in a simple Nongriat homestay in the valley to soften the trek.
- Cherrapunji (Sohra) as the trek baseCherrapunji, officially Sohra, is the natural base for the double-decker trek, with a range of resorts, guesthouses and homestays on the wet, green plateau, from simple rooms to a few comfortable properties with valley views. Staying at Sohra puts you close to the Tyrna trailhead for an early start, and near the many other waterfalls and caves of the area. For most travellers who want a hot shower and a proper bed before and after the hard Nongriat trek, Cherrapunji is the sensible and convenient place to stay for the living root bridges.
- A Nongriat homestay in the valleyTo soften the trek and get the most out of it, stay a night down in the valley at a simple Nongriat homestay such as Serene Homestay or Travellers' Nest, run by local Khasi families. Expect basic rooms, shared bathrooms, home-cooked meals and no frills, but a warm welcome, the sound of the river, and the bridge almost to yourself once the day-trippers leave. Booking ahead is wise, as beds are few. For anyone wanting to reach Rainbow Falls comfortably and feel the quiet magic of Nongriat, a night in the valley is well worth the simplicity.
- Shillong for wider comfortShillong, the Meghalaya capital, has the widest choice of hotels, homestays and restaurants, and many travellers base here and make Cherrapunji, Nongriat and Mawlynnong as day or overnight trips, though the drives are longer. If you want more comfort, shopping and dining in the evenings, and a livelier town, Shillong is a good base, especially if you are pairing the root bridges with the wider sights of the Khasi hills. For the Nongriat trek itself, though, a night at Sohra saves you a long early drive to the Tyrna trailhead.
- Mawlynnong for the easy bridgeIf your focus is the easy Riwai single-decker rather than the hard Nongriat trek, the clean village of Mawlynnong and its surroundings have pleasant homestays and community guesthouses, and make a restful, green base close to the bridge, the living skywalk viewpoint and the Bangladesh border overlook. This is an especially good choice for families and older travellers doing the gentle bridges. Staying near Mawlynnong lets you enjoy the easy Riwai bridge early and quietly, and soak up the tidy, flower-filled Khasi village life, without the demands of the long descent to Nongriat.
Base at Cherrapunji (Sohra) for comfort close to the Tyrna trailhead and the double-decker trek, or stay a night at a simple Nongriat homestay such as Serene Homestay or Travellers' Nest to recover your legs and reach Rainbow Falls early. Shillong offers the widest choice of hotels if you do not mind longer drives, and Mawlynnong makes a restful green base for the easy Riwai bridge, ideal for families and seniors. Book Nongriat homestays ahead, as beds are few, and match your base to whether you are doing the hard trek or the gentle walk.
A gentle guide to the cost of a root-bridge trip
The bridges are cheap to enter; the real costs are the taxi from Sohra, the guide and your stay, with only small village fees at the bridges.
- Small village fees at the bridgesThe bridges themselves cost very little. At the Nongriat double-decker there is a small village fee of about 20 rupees per person, with a camera charge around 20 rupees and about 100 rupees for a GoPro, and the smaller Nongthymmai bridge you pass charges about 10 rupees. At the easy Riwai bridge near Mawlynnong the village fee is about 30 rupees per person. These small charges go to the local Khasi villages that maintain the trails and the bridges, so pay them willingly, in cash, as your fair contribution to keeping this living heritage cared for.
- The taxi and the guideThe bigger costs are getting there and, for the longer treks, a guide. Most travellers hire a taxi for the day from Shillong or Cherrapunji to the Tyrna trailhead or to Mawlynnong, and the driver waits several hours while you trek. Fix the fare and the waiting time in advance. A local guide for the Nongriat trek, though not essential on the main path, is genuinely helpful if you go on to Rainbow Falls or the quieter bridges, and supports the local economy. Sharing a taxi and guide across a small group keeps these costs very reasonable per person.
- Stay and foodYour stay is the other main cost, and it ranges widely, from a comfortable resort at Sohra or a hotel at Shillong to a very cheap, very basic homestay bed down at Nongriat. Nongriat homestays are inexpensive and include simple home-cooked meals, which is part of their charm. Food on the trail is limited, with only a few small stalls at Nongriat, so carry snacks and water. Overall the living root bridges are an affordable experience once you are in Meghalaya, with the travel and your choice of stay, rather than the bridges, shaping the budget.
- Carry enough cashCarry enough cash in small notes for the whole outing, as the village fees, the trailside stalls, the homestays and often the taxi are all cash only, and there are no banks or reliable card machines at Tyrna, Nongriat or Riwai. Draw cash in Shillong or Cherrapunji before you head to the bridges, and keep it dry in a sealed bag in the wet hills. As at most remote destinations, having enough cash in hand keeps a root-bridge trip smooth and lets you pay the village fees and homestays easily and fairly.
Practical tips: shoes, water and a guide
A few things make the trek far better: proper grippy shoes, plenty of water and snacks, an early start, and a guide for the longer walks.
- Wear proper grippy shoesThe single most important practical tip for Nongriat is footwear: the long stone steps are uneven, and mossy and slippery when damp, so wear proper trekking shoes or trainers with good grip, not sandals or flip-flops. Trekking poles, or a stick you can rent at the trailhead, take real strain off your knees on the steep descent. Good shoes and a pole turn a punishing, risky scramble into a manageable, enjoyable trek. Even for the easy Riwai bridge, closed shoes with some grip are more comfortable than sandals on the short, sometimes damp path.
- Carry water, snacks and light rain gearCarry more water than you think you need, and some snacks or fruit, as there are only a few small stalls at Nongriat and none between the trailhead and the bridge. Refill where you can. Pack a light rain jacket or poncho whatever the forecast, as these are among the wettest hills on earth and a shower can arrive quickly, and keep your phone, camera and cash in a sealed bag. Being self-sufficient with water, snacks and rain cover makes the long trek much more comfortable and safe, especially on a hot, humid day in the deep valley.
- Start early and pace yourselfSet out from the Tyrna trailhead early in the morning so you have plenty of daylight for the climb back, which is slower and harder than the descent, and much slower still if you go on to Rainbow Falls. Pace yourself, rest often on the way down so your legs are not wrecked for the climb up, and do not race the steps. The valley darkens early. An early, steady, unhurried approach is the key to enjoying the Nongriat trek rather than suffering it, and to getting safely back up before the light goes.
- Consider a local guideYou do not strictly need a guide for the main Tyrna to Nongriat path, which is clear, but a local Khasi guide is genuinely worth it if you plan to continue to Rainbow Falls or explore the quieter bridges, where the trails branch and are easy to mistake. A guide also reads the weather, sets a sensible pace, and puts money directly into the local community. Arranging a guide through your homestay or at the trailhead is easy and inexpensive when shared in a group, and adds both safety and local insight to a root-bridge trek.
Make the Nongriat trek easier with four things: wear proper grippy trekking shoes, not sandals, on the slippery stone steps; carry plenty of water, snacks and a light rain jacket, as stalls are few and showers arrive fast in these very wet hills; start early so you have daylight in hand for the hard climb back and any push to Rainbow Falls; and take a trekking pole or a rented stick to spare your knees. A local guide is well worth it for Rainbow Falls or the quieter bridges. The same sensible shoes and rain cover help even on the easy Riwai walk.
Staying safe on the root-bridge treks
The bridges are safe and welcoming; the real cares are the steep wet steps, your own fitness, the monsoon and leeches, all easily managed with sense.
- Respect the steep, wet stepsThe main safety point at Nongriat is simply the steps: thousands of them, steep and uneven, and slippery when wet or mossy, so take the descent slowly, watch your footing, use the handrails and the wire-bridge cables, and use a pole or stick to steady yourself. Most mishaps here are slips and twisted ankles from hurrying on damp stone, not anything dramatic. Going carefully and unhurried, especially on the steepest, dampest sections and the swaying steel bridges, is the single best thing you can do to keep the Nongriat trek safe and enjoyable.
- Be honest about your fitnessBe honest with yourself about fitness before you start: about 3,000 to 3,500 steps down and the same back up is hard on knees, hips and lungs, and there is no vehicle rescue from the valley, so if you struggle with long stairs, bad knees or heart or breathing trouble, the Nongriat trek may not be for you. That is no failure, and it is exactly why the easy Riwai bridge exists. Choosing the gentle bridge over a trek your body is not ready for is the wise, safe decision, and you still see a beautiful living bridge for it.
- The monsoon and slippery groundIn the monsoon, roughly June to September, the whole picture changes: the steps become genuinely treacherous with running water and slick moss, the river runs high, and the risk of a bad slip rises sharply. If you trek in the rains, go slowly, wear the grippiest shoes you have, and be ready to turn back. Many travellers sensibly switch to the easy Riwai bridge in the wettest months. Treating the monsoon steps with real respect, and being willing to change your plan for safety, keeps a rainy-season visit to the root bridges sensible rather than reckless.
- Leeches, water and basic careIn the wet months the forest has leeches, which are harmless but unpleasant; wear long socks, use a little salt or repellent, and check your legs, and they are easily dealt with. Carry your own water and a small first-aid kit, as help is far off in the valley and mobile signal is patchy on the trail. Tell your homestay or driver your plan and rough return time. With grippy shoes, an honest sense of your fitness, care on wet ground, and simple precautions against leeches and dehydration, the root-bridge treks are safe and deeply rewarding.
The root bridges for every kind of traveller
Fit trekkers should take on Nongriat; families, seniors and anyone short on time or fitness get the same wonder at the easy Riwai bridge.
- Fit trekkers and adventure loversFor fit, active travellers who enjoy a real trek, the Nongriat double-decker is a superb challenge and reward: thousands of steep steps, swaying steel bridges, a deep green valley, the astonishing double bridge and, for the strong, Rainbow Falls beyond. Stay a night in the valley to savour it and reach the falls early. If you love earning your views on your own feet, and you have the knees and lungs for a hard stair climb, the Nongriat trek is one of the most memorable things you can do in the whole of northeast India.
- Families and seniors: choose RiwaiFor families with young children, for older travellers, and for anyone unsure about thousands of steep steps, the easy Riwai single-decker bridge near Mawlynnong is the answer: a gentle walk of about 300 metres delivers the same wonder of a living, centuries-old root bridge without the punishing trek. This is the honest, kind recommendation that many pages skip. Do not feel you must attempt Nongriat to see a root bridge, you do not. The gentle Riwai bridge, paired with clean Mawlynnong village, gives families and seniors a beautiful, relaxed and genuinely moving day out.
- Nature and photography loversFor nature and photography lovers, the whole area is a treasure: the living bridges themselves, mossy and root-woven; the turquoise pool at Rainbow Falls; the countless waterfalls of Sohra; and the intense green of some of the wettest hills on earth. Early morning light in the valley is magical and the bridges are quietest then. Whether you make the hard trek or the easy walk, carry your camera in a dry bag against the damp. For those who love landscapes, water and living detail, the root bridges of Meghalaya are among the most photogenic places in India.
- Slow and responsible travellersFor slow, thoughtful travellers, the root bridges reward you most if you go gently and respectfully: stay a night at a Nongriat homestay, talk with the Khasi families who tend the bridges, pay the village fees willingly, carry out your litter, and treat the bridges, which are living things and working village infrastructure, with care. This is not a theme park but a living heritage landscape on the UNESCO tentative list. Coming slowly, spending in the villages, and treading lightly turns your visit into something good for the community as well as memorable for you.
How long to give the living root bridges
Give the bridges two to three days within a Meghalaya trip: a day for Nongriat (ideally overnight) and a half-day for the easy Riwai bridge and Mawlynnong.
- Base at Sohra and start earlyBase yourself at Cherrapunji (Sohra) the night before the trek so you can reach the Tyrna trailhead early. Cherrapunji itself is worth time too, with its many waterfalls, caves and viewpoints on the wet plateau, so give the area a full day around the trek rather than rushing in and out. Arriving the evening before, settling in, and setting out fresh and early for Nongriat is the calm, sensible way to begin. An unhurried base at Sohra makes the demanding Nongriat trek far more enjoyable than a long dawn drive from Shillong.
- The Nongriat day, ideally overnightGive the Nongriat double-decker a full, hard day: about 1.5 to 2 hours down the roughly 3,000 to 3,500 steps, time at the bridges, and about 2.5 to 4 hours back up. Better still, stay a night at a Nongriat homestay so you are not racing the light, can rest your legs, and can walk on to Rainbow Falls early the next morning before climbing out. Doing Nongriat as an overnight rather than a single brutal day trip is the best decision most trekkers make, turning a grind into a relaxed, memorable two days in the valley.
- A half-day for the easy Riwai bridgeAdd a half-day for the easy Riwai single-decker bridge near Mawlynnong, an about 300 metre walk that pairs beautifully with a wander through spotless Mawlynnong village, the living-root skywalk viewpoint and the overlook towards Bangladesh. This gentle outing suits everyone and gives a lovely contrast to the hard Nongriat trek, or stands alone as the whole root-bridge experience for those not trekking. Slotting the easy Riwai bridge and Mawlynnong into a relaxed half-day rounds out your encounter with the living bridges and shows off the tidy, flower-filled Khasi countryside.
- Fit it into a Meghalaya tripWeave the root bridges into a wider Meghalaya journey of three to five days or more: Shillong and its lake and markets, the waterfalls and caves of Cherrapunji, the clean village of Mawlynnong, and, with more time, the crystal-clear Dawki river and the Jaintia hills. Two to three days on the bridges themselves, one for Nongriat and a half-day for Riwai, sit naturally within such a trip. Rather than a single photo stop, treat the living root bridges as the heart of a fuller Meghalaya itinerary, and give yourself time to enjoy the wet, green hills around them.
The real questions travellers ask about the root bridges
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a trip to the living root bridges of Meghalaya.
- How hard is the trek, and how many steps?The Nongriat double-decker trek is genuinely strenuous: about 3,000 to 3,500 steep stone steps down from Tyrna and the same back up, taking about 1.5 to 2 hours down and about 2.5 to 4 hours up. It is hard on the knees and lungs, and there is no vehicle rescue from the valley. It is very rewarding for anyone reasonably fit, but it is honest to call it demanding, not a gentle stroll. If that sounds too much, the easy Riwai single-decker bridge near Mawlynnong gives you the same wonder with only an about 300 metre walk.
- Is there an easier bridge, and a fee?Yes. The single-decker Riwai (Jingmaham) bridge near Mawlynnong is the easy option, reached by an about 300 metre walk, open roughly 9 am to 5 pm, with a small village fee of about 30 rupees per person, and it suits families and seniors perfectly. At the hard Nongriat double-decker the fee is about 20 rupees per person, with a camera charge around 20 rupees and about 100 rupees for a GoPro, and the smaller Nongthymmai bridge on the way about 10 rupees. All are cash only and go to the villages, so carry small notes and pay them willingly.
- When should I go, and are there leeches?Go in the drier months, October to March, when the steps are safer and the pools clear; the monsoon, roughly June to September, is green and dramatic but the steps turn very slippery and the wet forest has leeches. Leeches are harmless but unpleasant, and long socks with a little salt or repellent handle them. Note that the Nongriat viewpoints have been kept closed on Sundays since January 2020, so plan the trek for another day. Whatever the season, start early to have daylight for the hard climb back up out of the valley.
- Can I stay overnight, and how long do I need?Yes, and it is a great idea: simple Nongriat homestays such as Serene Homestay and Travellers' Nest let you sleep in the valley, rest your legs and reach Rainbow Falls early, turning a brutal day trip into a relaxed two days. Give the bridges two to three days overall within a Meghalaya trip, a day for Nongriat, ideally overnight, and a half-day for the easy Riwai bridge and Mawlynnong. You can do Nongriat in one long hard day if you must, but staying over is far kinder on your legs and far richer on experience.
Planning the living root bridges from abroad
For overseas visitors, the bridges are a living Khasi heritage landscape reached via Guwahati and Shillong, best in the drier season, and doable both the hard and easy way.
- Route in through Guwahati and ShillongFrom abroad, the usual route is to fly into an Indian hub such as Delhi or Kolkata, then on to Guwahati in Assam, the nearest major airport and railhead, about 145 to 180 km from the root-bridge country. From Guwahati you drive up into the Khasi hills to Shillong and on to Cherrapunji (Sohra), the base for the bridges. Shillong also has a small airport, about 50 to 60 km from Sohra. Allow a realistic day for the journey up into the hills, and treat the scenic drive from the Assam plains as the start of your Meghalaya trip.
- A rare living-heritage experienceFor an overseas visitor, the living root bridges offer something you will see almost nowhere else on earth: working bridges grown, not built, from the living roots of the Ficus elastica rubber tree by the Khasi and Jaintia people over decades, now on India's UNESCO World Heritage tentative list. Far off the usual Golden Triangle trail, they show a green, wet, tribal India of deep valleys and astonishing craft. Combined with clean Mawlynnong and the waterfalls of Sohra, they make a rare, authentic and deeply memorable addition to an India itinerary for the curious traveller.
- Both the hard and the easy wayOverseas visitors come in every shape of fitness, so choose honestly: fit travellers can take on the demanding Nongriat double-decker trek of about 3,000 to 3,500 steps, ideally staying a night in the valley, while families, older travellers and anyone short on fitness get the same wonder at the easy Riwai single-decker bridge with only an about 300 metre walk. You do not have to trek to see a living root bridge. Matching the bridge to your group, rather than assuming you must do the hard one, is the key to a happy visit from abroad.
- Come in the drier season with a good operatorTime an overseas trip for the drier months, October to March, when the steps are safer and the pools clear, and avoid the heaviest monsoon unless you are prepared for very slippery steps and leeches. Given the long journey, the winding hill roads and the need to arrange taxis, homestays and guides, most overseas visitors find the bridges easiest and richest with a reputable operator or a well-organised local guide, who can weave Nongriat, Mawlynnong and Sohra into a smooth Meghalaya trip and handle the logistics of this beautiful but out-of-the-way corner of India.
Money, connectivity and logistics for overseas visitors
Carry rupees in cash, expect patchy signal on the trail, plan the hill drives and permits, and pair the bridges with a wider Meghalaya trip.
- Carry rupees in cashCarry enough Indian rupees in cash, in small notes, for the whole root-bridge outing, as the village fees, trailside stalls, homestays and often the taxis are all cash only, and there are no banks or reliable card machines at Tyrna, Nongriat or Riwai. Draw cash in Shillong or Cherrapunji before you set off, and keep it dry in a sealed bag in the wet hills. For an overseas visitor, having enough rupees in hand is the smoothest way to handle the small village fees, the homestays and the everyday costs of this remote, cash-based corner of Meghalaya.
- Expect patchy signal and get a local SIMMobile coverage is patchy in the deep valleys and on the trails, so a foreign SIM may struggle, and it is wise to get an Indian prepaid SIM for the wider trip, download your maps and details in advance, and not rely on a constant signal, especially once you drop into the Nongriat valley. Tell your homestay or driver your plan and rough return time. Setting expectations for a remote, simply connected landscape, and preparing your navigation and bookings in advance, makes for a far smoother root-bridge visit from abroad, where being unplugged is part of the charm anyway.
- Plan the drives, permits and timingThe main logistical points for an overseas visitor are the long, winding hill drives to reach the trailheads, and building realistic time into your plan. Foreign nationals do not need a special permit for the main Khasi hills, but do carry your passport, register where asked, and check current rules before you travel. Use a good driver or a well-organised trip, travel by day, and do not underestimate how tiring the drives plus the trek can be. Planning the drives and timing carefully, and not cramming the bridges into a rushed schedule, makes the journey worthwhile from abroad.
- Pair with the wider Meghalaya circuitFor an overseas visitor, the root bridges are best enjoyed within a wider Meghalaya journey: Shillong and its lake and markets, the waterfalls and caves of Cherrapunji, clean Mawlynnong, and, with more time, the clear Dawki river and the Jaintia hills. An operator or a self-drive itinerary can weave the bridges into a rich circuit of the wet, green Khasi and Jaintia country. Rather than a lone stop, treat the living root bridges as the heart of a fuller Meghalaya trip, timed for the drier season and planned for the remoteness and the long, winding drives.
A double bridge of living root, deep in the wettest hills on earth
There is a valley below Cherrapunji, in the Khasi hills of Meghalaya, where the rain falls harder than almost anywhere on earth, and where, long ago, the people learned a trick that no engineer taught them. They found that the rubber fig, the Ficus elastica, throws out long aerial roots, and that if you guide those roots patiently across a stream, year after year, coaxing them along a scaffold of betel trunk and bamboo, they will reach the far bank, take hold, thicken, fuse and knit, until in fifteen or twenty or thirty years you have a bridge, a living bridge, that grows stronger every season instead of rotting away as a wooden one would in the first big monsoon. They call these jingkieng jri, and the most famous of them all is the double-decker at a village called Nongriat, where two spans of root have been grown one above the other across the water, and to reach it you must go down, and down, and down, some three thousand steps and more from the trailhead at Tyrna, until your knees are shaking and the forest closes green and dripping overhead, and then there it is, mossy and impossible and alive, and you understand that a whole community has been tending this one bridge, hand to hand, grandparent to grandchild, for longer than anyone can remember. And if the steps are too many for you, and for many they honestly are, there is a gentler one at Riwai near the clean village of Mawlynnong, three hundred years old and three hundred metres from the road, where a grandmother and a small child can stand together on a bridge made of living root and feel the same quiet wonder. It is a slow craft, this, a conversation between people and trees that no one can hurry, and it is now on India's list of places it hopes the world will one day honour. Come in the dry season, wear good shoes, pay the village its small due, and walk softly, for you are walking on something alive.
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