Bundi Travel Guide
The pleasant window is about October to March , the cool Rajasthan winter; the summer is fiercely hot and the monsoon brings some rain.
The best time to visit Bundi
The pleasant window is about October to March, the cool Rajasthan winter; the summer is fiercely hot and the monsoon brings some rain.
- October to March for the cool winterThe best time to visit Bundi is roughly October to March, the cool, pleasant Rajasthan winter, when the days are mild and sunny and the nights cool, ideal for climbing to the fort, exploring the stepwells and wandering the blue old town on foot. This is the classic and by far the most comfortable season for Bundi and for Rajasthan generally. For most travellers, these cool winter months are the clear choice for an unhurried, enjoyable Bundi trip.
- Winter days, cool nightsIn the heart of winter, about December and January, Bundi days are pleasant and sunny while the nights and early mornings can be quite cold for Rajasthan, so carry a warm layer for the evenings. The light is lovely and soft for photography, the crowds thin, and the walking easy. This is a beautiful, comfortable time to enjoy the fort, the palace murals and the lanes, simply dressing warmly for the chilly winter mornings and nights.
- Avoid the fierce summerThe summer, about April to June, is fiercely hot in Bundi, with temperatures climbing very high, making the climb to the fort and the walking around town exhausting and uncomfortable. Unless you have a specific reason to come then, it is best avoided. If you must visit in summer, do your sightseeing in the early morning and evening, rest in the heat of the day, drink plenty of water, and keep out of the fierce midday sun.
- The monsoon greeneryThe monsoon, about July to September, brings some rain to Bundi and turns the surrounding hills and the lakes green and full, a pretty if humid time, with the fort and town looking their most romantic against grey skies. The rain is usually not heavy enough to spoil a trip, though it can make the fort paths slippery. For green landscapes and full lakes with fewer crowds, the late monsoon into early autumn can be a rewarding, quieter time.
Bundi is at its best in the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, the Rajasthan winter, ideal for the fort, the stepwells and the blue town on foot, though winter nights can be cold, so carry a warm layer. Avoid the fierce summer heat of about April to June, when the climb to the fort is exhausting; if you must come then, sightsee early and late and rest in the midday heat. The monsoon brings green hills and full lakes.
How to reach Bundi, in the Hadoti region
Reach Bundi by road or rail, about 36 km from Kota and 210 km from Jaipur, with its own station and Kota and Jaipur as gateways.
Bundi has its own railway station, with connections that make the train a comfortable way to arrive, and the larger junction at Kota, about 36 km away, offers many more trains from Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai and across the country. Many travellers take a train to Kota and drive the short distance to Bundi, or use direct services to Bundi where available. The train is an easy, affordable and pleasant way to reach this quiet Hadoti town.
Bundi is well connected by road, about 36 km from Kota, roughly 210 km from Jaipur and a longer drive from Delhi, on good Rajasthan highways. Buses and taxis run from Kota, Jaipur and other cities, and a hired car gives freedom for a Hadoti or Rajasthan circuit. The drive from Kota is short and easy, and Bundi makes a natural stop on a road journey through southeastern Rajasthan, between Jaipur, Chittorgarh and beyond.
The nearest major airport is at Jaipur, roughly 210 km away, with a smaller airport at Kota nearby for limited flights. From Jaipur it is a road or rail journey of several hours to Bundi. Most travellers fly to Jaipur and continue by car or train, or include Bundi on a wider Rajasthan trip reached through Jaipur or Udaipur. There is no airport at Bundi itself, so the last leg is always by road or rail.
Bundi is a small, compact and walkable town, and much of its pleasure, the blue lanes, the stepwells, the palace and the bazaar, is best enjoyed on foot. Autorickshaws are handy for the stepwells further out, the Sukh Mahal on Jait Sagar lake and the cenotaphs, and for the climb up toward the fort. For a family or those short on time, a hired autorickshaw or taxi for a half day easily covers the scattered outlying sights.
Bundi is easiest reached via Kota, about 36 km away, a major railway junction with trains from across the country, or on its own line and by road, with Jaipur about 210 km off the natural air gateway. Fly or train to Jaipur or Kota and continue by car or rail. Bundi itself is small and walkable, with autorickshaws for the outlying stepwells, the Sukh Mahal and the fort climb, so no car is needed once you are in the compact old town.
The fort, the palace murals and the great stepwells
The draws are Taragarh Fort and the Garh Palace Chitrashala, the magnificent stepwells, the blue old town and Nawal Sagar, and the Sukh Mahal.
- Taragarh Fort and the Garh PalaceRising above the town is the great Taragarh Fort, the star fort, built from the fourteenth century by the Hada rulers, a rugged hill fort of battlements, gateways and old water tanks, wonderfully wild and overgrown, with sweeping views over the blue town and the lakes. Below it clings the Garh Palace, or Bundi Palace, built in a distinctive local green-tinged stone, a labyrinth of courtyards, apartments and terraces, one of the most atmospheric palace complexes in all Rajasthan.
- The Chitrashala muralsThe jewel of the Garh Palace is the Chitrashala, a gallery of exquisite miniature wall paintings, the finest showcase of the celebrated Bundi school of painting. Its walls and ceilings glow with scenes of gods, courtly life, hunts and festivals in luminous blues and greens, remarkably preserved. To sit in this quiet painted chamber, taking in the colour and detail, is one of the great artistic experiences of Rajasthan, and the true treasure of a visit to Bundi.
- The great stepwellsBundi is the city of stepwells, with more than fifty baoris, and the grandest is Raniji ki Baori, a magnificent stepped well about 46 metres deep, built in 1699 by Rani Nathavati, its tiers of steps, carved pillars and arched gateway descending dramatically into the earth. These stepwells, built to store water and to serve as cool public places, are Bundi's most distinctive glory, extraordinary feats of architecture and beauty that most other Rajasthan towns cannot match.
- The blue town, Nawal Sagar and Sukh MahalBelow the palace spreads the blue old town, a maze of indigo-painted houses best seen from the fort, with the Nawal Sagar lake reflecting the palace and a half-submerged temple. On the Jait Sagar lake stands the Sukh Mahal, a summer palace where Rudyard Kipling stayed and which is linked with his novel Kim, and nearby the elegant 84-pillared cenotaph. Together these lakes, palaces and lanes make Bundi a wonderfully atmospheric, romantic old Rajput town.
Do not miss the Chitrashala in the Garh Palace, the finest gallery of the celebrated Bundi school of miniature painting, its walls glowing with luminous blue-and-green scenes of gods and courtly life. Give it unhurried time, and treat the delicate old murals with care, do not touch the paintings or use flash where it is not allowed. This quiet painted chamber, more than the fort or even the stepwells, is the true artistic jewel of Bundi and one of the great sights of Rajasthan.
The experiences that make Bundi
Explore the stepwells and blue lanes, climb to the fort, take in the Chitrashala murals, and soak up the quiet old-town mood.
- Descend the great stepwellsThe signature Bundi experience is to explore its stepwells, above all the magnificent Raniji ki Baori, descending the tiers of steps into the cool, carved depths, and to seek out the smaller baoris hidden through the town. These extraordinary structures, part architecture, part sculpture, part engineering, are Bundi's unique glory. To stand at the foot of a great stepwell, looking up at the steps and arches against the sky, is a memorable and quite unforgettable experience found nowhere else so richly.
- Climb to Taragarh FortClimb the steep path up to the wild, overgrown Taragarh Fort for its battlements, old tanks and, above all, its sweeping views over the blue town, the lakes and the palace below. The fort is romantically ruined and half reclaimed by nature, an atmospheric contrast to the polished forts elsewhere, though watch out for the bold monkeys along the way. Go in the cool morning, carry water, and enjoy one of the most evocative and least crowded hill forts in all Rajasthan.
- Take in the Chitrashala muralsGive unhurried time to the Chitrashala in the Garh Palace, sitting quietly in the painted chamber to take in the exquisite miniatures of the Bundi school, the luminous blues and greens, the scenes of gods and courtly life. It is a rare chance to see this celebrated art in its own setting, remarkably preserved. For anyone who loves painting, history or beauty, an unhurried hour with the Chitrashala murals is the artistic highlight of a Bundi visit.
- Wander the blue lanes and lakesBeyond the great sights, simply wander the blue old town, its indigo lanes, little temples and bustling bazaar, and stroll by the Nawal Sagar and Jait Sagar lakes, taking in the Sukh Mahal with its Kipling story and the graceful cenotaphs. Bundi is a town made for slow, aimless wandering, quieter and more real than the big tourist cities, and to lose yourself in its lanes and lakeside calm is one of its deepest pleasures.
The climb to Taragarh Fort passes through territory full of bold monkeys, which can snatch food, water bottles and shiny objects, so keep food out of sight, hold your bag and belongings firmly, do not tease or feed them, and consider carrying a stick as many locals do. They are usually more nuisance than danger if you are careful. With that simple caution, the atmospheric, overgrown fort and its magnificent views are a highlight, not a hazard.
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay in a heritage haveli in the old town, and give Bundi about two to three days.
- Heritage havelis in the old townBundi's special charm is its many heritage haveli guest houses in the blue old town, old painted mansions turned into atmospheric, characterful stays, often with rooftop views of the palace and fort and home-cooked Rajasthani food. Staying in one of these, in the heart of the lanes below the palace, is the classic and most rewarding Bundi experience. Choose a haveli with a good rooftop view, book ahead in the winter season, and soak up the old-town atmosphere.
- A range to suit every budgetBeyond the heritage havelis, Bundi has simple guest houses and homestays for backpackers, and a few more comfortable hotels and heritage properties for those wanting more, at prices generally gentler than the big tourist cities. Whatever your budget, you can find a characterful, affordable stay here. For a quieter, more authentic Rajasthan experience than the crowded cities offer, Bundi's old-town havelis and guest houses are hard to beat, and part of the pleasure of the place.
- Give Bundi two to three daysBundi is compact but rich, so give it about two to three unhurried days: time for the fort and the Garh Palace with its Chitrashala, the great stepwells, the blue lanes and the bazaar, the lakes and the Sukh Mahal, and simply relaxing on a haveli rooftop. A single day is possible but rushed; two or three days let you enjoy the town at its own slow pace, which is the whole point of quiet, atmospheric Bundi.
- Fit it into a Rajasthan tripPlan Bundi within a wider Rajasthan journey rather than alone: the Hadoti region with Kota and Jhalawar, and the great circuit with Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Pushkar and Jaipur. Bundi makes a lovely, quieter stop that many itineraries skip, a real gem between the big names. Spreading these across a longer trip, Bundi adds a note of calm, authenticity and unique stepwell heritage to a Rajasthan journey of forts, palaces and desert cities.
The most rewarding way to enjoy Bundi is to stay in a heritage haveli guest house in the blue old town, with a rooftop looking up at the palace and fort, and home-cooked Rajasthani food. These atmospheric, affordable old mansions are part of Bundi's charm. Give the town about two to three unhurried days for the fort, the Chitrashala, the stepwells, the lakes and the lanes, and weave it into a wider Rajasthan circuit with Kota, Chittorgarh and Udaipur.
A gentle guide to the cost of a Bundi trip
Bundi is one of the more affordable heritage towns in Rajasthan; the stays, modest entry tickets and a little local transport are the main costs.
- An affordable heritage townBundi is one of the more affordable heritage towns in Rajasthan, gentler on the pocket than the big tourist cities, which is part of its appeal. The heritage haveli stays, the simple food, and getting around a compact town cost relatively little, so a rewarding trip here need not be expensive. It is the journey to and from, and your choice of stay, more than the town itself, that largely set the budget for a Bundi visit.
- Stays and foodAccommodation ranges from cheap backpacker guest houses to characterful heritage havelis and a few comfortable hotels, mostly at fair, moderate prices, with home-cooked Rajasthani food in the havelis and simple, tasty local eateries around town. Choose the level of comfort that suits you; even the atmospheric heritage stays are usually reasonably priced. Eating and sleeping in Bundi are among the better-value experiences in Rajasthan, adding to the town's easygoing charm.
- Entry tickets and a guideThe main sights, the Garh Palace and Chitrashala, the stepwells and the fort area, charge modest entry tickets, with a small extra for cameras at some, and a local guide for the palace and the town, well worth it to understand the murals and the history, adds a small, worthwhile cost. Budget a little for the tickets and a guide, and the great heritage of Bundi is very affordable to enjoy in full.
- Carry some cashWhile cards and mobile payment work in the better stays and shops, many small guest houses, autorickshaws, local eateries, entry tickets and bazaar buys are cash matters, so carry enough cash, drawn in Kota or a larger town or at Bundi's own machines. As in much of small-town Rajasthan, a mix of cash for the everyday and a card for the bigger bills keeps a Bundi trip smooth and free of any awkward money moments.
Practical tips: the heat, the fort, the monkeys and the murals
A few facts help: come in the cool season, mind the monkeys at the fort, treat the murals and stepwells with care, and dress modestly at temples.
- Come in the cool seasonPlan around the heat: Bundi is loveliest in the cool months of about October to March, and fiercely hot from about April to June, when the fort climb and the walking are exhausting. Come in the winter if you can, carry a warm layer for the cold nights, and in any season carry water, wear a hat and sunscreen, and do the fort and outdoor sights in the cooler morning and evening. Respecting the Rajasthan heat is the first rule of a comfortable Bundi trip.
- Mind the monkeys at the fortThe path up to Taragarh Fort passes through monkey territory, and the bold monkeys can snatch food, water and shiny objects, so keep food out of sight, hold your belongings firmly, do not feed or tease them, and consider carrying a stick as locals do. They are usually more nuisance than real danger with care. Being alert and keeping food packed away lets you enjoy the wonderful, wild fort and its views without any monkey trouble.
- Treat the murals and stepwells with careThe Chitrashala murals are delicate and centuries old, so do not touch the paintings, lean on the walls, or use flash where it is not allowed, and treat the stepwells with respect, taking care on the steep, sometimes slippery steps and not littering in these old public wells. These are precious, fragile heritage, and treating them gently keeps them beautiful for those who come after. A little care preserves the very treasures you have come to see.
- Dress modestly and respect the townBundi is a traditional, small Rajasthan town with living temples and a conservative feel, so dress modestly, especially at temples and in the old lanes, remove your shoes at shrines, and behave respectfully with local people, asking before photographing them. Bargain politely in the bazaar. This quiet, authentic town is not a tourist bubble but a real place, and treating it and its people with courtesy makes your visit warmer and more welcome.
Two things shape a good Bundi trip: come in the cool October-to-March season and avoid the fierce summer heat; and treat the fort's bold monkeys and the delicate Chitrashala murals with care, keeping food packed away on the fort climb and not touching or flashing the old paintings. Dress modestly in this traditional town, carry water and cash, and take the stepwell steps carefully. With these simple courtesies, quiet, atmospheric Bundi is a delight.
Safety at Bundi
Bundi is a safe, friendly town; the cares are the heat, the fort monkeys, the steep stepwell and fort steps, and the ordinary care.
- Respect the heatThe main hazard in Bundi is the sun and heat, fierce in summer and strong even in winter days, so carry and drink plenty of water, wear a hat and sunscreen, do the fort and outdoor sights in the cooler morning and evening, and rest in the heat of the day, especially with children and older travellers. Heat exhaustion is the real risk here, not crime. Pacing your day around the sun keeps a Bundi trip comfortable and safe.
- Mind the monkeys and the stepsThe bold monkeys on the way to the fort can snatch food and belongings, so keep food packed away and hold your bag firmly, and take care on the steep, uneven and sometimes slippery steps of the stepwells and the fort, holding rails where there are any and watching children closely. These are old structures without modern safety fences. With sensible care over the monkeys and the steps, the fort and stepwells are a pleasure rather than a hazard.
- The ordinary careBundi is a quiet, friendly and welcoming town, and generally very safe, with the usual small-town care over your belongings in the bazaar and at busy sights, and polite firmness with the occasional pushy tout or guide. Agree prices for autorickshaws, guides and shopping in advance. Solo travellers, including women, generally find Bundi relaxed and safe with normal precautions and modest dress, and the town's easygoing, unhurried mood is part of its charm.
- Health and essentialsBundi is a small town, so for any serious medical need the larger hospitals are at Kota, about 36 km away, though basic care and pharmacies are available in town. Carry any personal medicines, drink bottled or filtered water, eat at busy, well-regarded eateries, and carry a basic first aid kit. With sensible care over water, food and the heat, and the bigger medical facilities of Kota close by, Bundi is an easy and safe town to enjoy.
Bundi for every kind of traveller
Bundi suits heritage lovers, photographers, art enthusiasts and slow travellers, with a little care over the heat and the fort.
- Heritage and history loversFor lovers of heritage and history, Bundi is a treasure, a real old Rajput town of fort, palace, stepwells and cenotaphs, with the wild Taragarh Fort, the atmospheric Garh Palace and the magnificent baoris, quieter and more authentic than the big tourist cities. Come to explore its layers of history at a slow pace, and you find one of the richest and least spoilt heritage towns in Rajasthan, a favourite of those who love the real, lived-in past.
- Photographers and slow travellersFor photographers and slow travellers, Bundi is a joy: the blue lanes, the stepwells, the fort views, the lakes reflecting the palace, the bazaar life, all in soft light and without the crowds of the famous cities. It is a town made for wandering with a camera and no fixed plan, for rooftop chai at sunset and aimless exploring. For those who travel to soak up atmosphere and light rather than tick off sights, Bundi is deeply rewarding.
- Art and architecture enthusiastsFor those drawn to art and architecture, Bundi offers the celebrated Bundi school of miniature painting in the Chitrashala, the extraordinary engineering and beauty of the stepwells, and the distinctive green-stone palace and hill fort. It is a town to study and savour slowly, with a good guide to bring out the detail. For anyone who loves painting, architecture and design, Bundi packs an astonishing richness into a small, walkable and uncrowded old town.
- Backpackers, families and first-timersFor backpackers, Bundi is an affordable, relaxed and characterful stop with friendly haveli guest houses; for families, a compact, safe and interesting town, though the heat and the fort climb need care with children; and for first-time visitors to Rajasthan, a gentler, quieter introduction than the big cities. Come in the cool season, take the sights at an easy pace, and Bundi rewards every kind of traveller with heritage, atmosphere and genuine, unhurried charm.
A suggested plan for Bundi and Hadoti
A graded plan: Bundi's fort, palace, stepwells and lakes, with Kota nearby over about two to three days.
- Day 1: the palace, Chitrashala and old townArrive in Bundi and settle into a heritage haveli in the blue old town. Give the first day to the Garh Palace and its magnificent Chitrashala murals, taking your time with the Bundi school paintings, then wander the indigo lanes, the bazaar and the Nawal Sagar lakeside below the palace. End with sunset and chai on your haveli rooftop, looking up at the fort and palace. It is a rich, gentle first day in the heart of old Bundi.
- Day 2: the fort and the stepwellsGive the second morning, while it is cool, to the climb up to the wild Taragarh Fort for its battlements, tanks and sweeping views over the town and lakes, minding the monkeys on the way. In the afternoon, explore the great stepwells, above all Raniji ki Baori, descending into their cool carved depths, and seek out smaller baoris around town. It is a full day of Bundi's two greatest glories, the hill fort and the magnificent stepwells.
- Day 3: lakes, cenotaphs and KotaOn the third day, visit the Sukh Mahal on Jait Sagar lake with its Kipling connection, the graceful 84-pillared cenotaph and other chhatris and temples, at a relaxed pace, and perhaps take a half-day trip to nearby Kota, with its own palace, museum and riverfront on the Chambal. It is an easy, unhurried day rounding out the Hadoti region, before you move on to the next stop on your wider Rajasthan journey.
- Onward into RajasthanFrom Bundi, continue your Rajasthan trip: on to Chittorgarh and Udaipur to the west, Pushkar and Ajmer, or back toward Jaipur, weaving Bundi's quiet heritage into a fuller circuit of the state's forts, palaces and lakes. Over about two to three days in Bundi and Hadoti, plus onward travel, you enjoy one of Rajasthan's most rewarding and least crowded heritage towns as part of a rich, varied journey through the great state.
The real questions travellers ask about Bundi
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a Bundi trip.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Bundi by train or road, most easily via Kota, about 36 km away and a major railway junction, with Jaipur about 210 km off the natural air gateway; Bundi has its own station too. The best time is the cool season of about October to March, ideal for the fort and the walking, while the summer of April to June is fiercely hot. Fly or train to Jaipur or Kota and continue by car or rail to quiet, compact Bundi.
- What are the stepwells, and Raniji ki Baori?Bundi is the city of stepwells, with more than fifty baoris, deep stepped wells built to store water and serve as cool public places. The grandest is Raniji ki Baori, a magnificent stepwell about 46 metres deep, built in 1699 by Rani Nathavati, with tiers of steps, carved pillars and an arched gateway. Descending into these extraordinary structures, part architecture and part sculpture, is Bundi's most distinctive and unforgettable experience, found nowhere else so richly.
- What is the Chitrashala, and the blue town?The Chitrashala, in the Garh Palace, is a gallery of exquisite miniature wall paintings, the finest showcase of the celebrated Bundi school of painting, its walls glowing with blue-and-green scenes of gods and courtly life. The old town below is a maze of blue-painted houses, like a smaller, quieter Jodhpur, best seen from the fort, with the Nawal Sagar lake reflecting the palace. Both are among the great sights that make Bundi special.
- Is Bundi good for families, and how long to stay?Bundi is a compact, safe and interesting town, good for families who take the heat and the fort climb with care, minding children on the steep stepwell steps and around the monkeys. Give it about two to three unhurried days to enjoy the fort, the Chitrashala, the stepwells, the lakes and the lanes, ideally in the cool season. It is a gentler, quieter introduction to Rajasthan than the big cities, rewarding a slow, relaxed visit.
Planning Bundi from abroad
For overseas visitors, Bundi is a quiet, authentic Rajput heritage town reached through Jaipur or Delhi, a gem on a wider Rajasthan trip.
- Route in through Jaipur or DelhiFrom abroad, fly into Delhi or Jaipur and continue to Bundi by road or rail, most easily via Kota, or include it on a wider Rajasthan trip through Jaipur, Chittorgarh and Udaipur. No permit is needed. Allow a comfortable couple of days for Bundi within a longer journey, rather than rushing. Jaipur is the natural air gateway, and the road or rail journey to quiet, compact Bundi is an easy and rewarding leg of a Rajasthan itinerary from abroad.
- A quieter, more authentic RajasthanFor an overseas visitor, Bundi offers a quieter, more authentic and affordable taste of Rajasthan than the big, crowded cities, a real old Rajput town of fort, palace murals, stepwells and blue lanes, with friendly heritage haveli stays. It is a favourite of travellers who want the atmosphere and heritage of Rajasthan without the tourist crush. Woven into a wider trip, Bundi adds a note of calm, authenticity and unique stepwell beauty that most itineraries miss.
- Come in the cool seasonTime an overseas trip for the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, the ideal Rajasthan season, and avoid the fierce summer heat of April to June, when the fort climb and the walking are exhausting. Carry a warm layer for the cold winter nights, and in any season a hat, sunscreen and water for the strong sun. A little planning around the season makes for a comfortable and rewarding Bundi trip from abroad.
- Respect the town and its heritageOverseas visitors should treat Bundi as the living, traditional town it is: dress modestly, especially at temples and in the old lanes, behave respectfully with local people and ask before photographing them, and treat the delicate Chitrashala murals and the old stepwells with care, not touching or damaging them. This quiet, authentic town welcomes respectful visitors warmly, and coming with courtesy and care makes an overseas visitor's Bundi experience all the richer.
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry some cash, expect decent connectivity, time the trip for the cool season, and combine Bundi with a wider Rajasthan circuit.
- Carry some cashWhile cards and mobile payment work in the better stays and shops, many small guest houses, autorickshaws, entry tickets, local eateries and bazaar buys in Bundi are cash matters, so carry enough Indian rupees in cash, drawn at Bundi's or Kota's machines or a larger city. For an overseas visitor, a mix of cash for the everyday and a card for the bigger bills is the smoothest way to handle money in this small, traditional Rajasthan town.
- Connectivity is reasonableBundi has reasonable mobile coverage and internet in the town and the better stays, so an overseas visitor can stay connected fairly easily, though it helps to get an Indian prepaid SIM for the trip, as foreign SIMs can be costly and patchy. Download maps and details in advance for convenience. Connectivity is far better here than in the remote hills, so staying in touch and finding your way around Bundi is generally straightforward for visitors from abroad.
- Time it for the cool seasonPlan the trip for the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, the ideal Rajasthan season for the fort, the stepwells and the walking, and avoid the fierce summer heat of April to June. Carry a warm layer for the cold winter nights and sun protection for the strong daytime sun. Timing an overseas trip for the cool season is the single most important thing for a comfortable and enjoyable visit to Bundi and Rajasthan.
- Combine with a Rajasthan circuitFor an overseas visitor, Bundi is best enjoyed as part of a wider Rajasthan circuit rather than a lone stop: combine it with Jaipur, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Pushkar and Ajmer for a full journey through the state's forts, palaces, lakes and temples. Bundi adds a quiet, authentic, stepwell-rich note that the big cities lack. An operator or a self-drive or rail itinerary can easily weave Bundi into a rewarding, varied Rajasthan trip from abroad.
Blue lanes, a wild fort, and wells that go down to meet the dark
In the Hadoti country of southeastern Rajasthan, below a ridge of the Aravallis crowned by a wild and half-ruined fort, lies the old Rajput town of Bundi, and it is unlike anywhere else in the state. Other towns have their forts and palaces, and Bundi has these too, the rugged Taragarh climbing the hill, and clinging below it the Garh Palace of green-tinged stone, in whose quiet chamber called the Chitrashala the walls still glow with the luminous blue-and-green miniatures of the famous Bundi school of painting, gods and lovers and hunts as fresh as the day they were made. But what sets Bundi apart is what lies beneath the streets. This is the city of stepwells, and scattered through its lanes are more than fifty baoris, deep stepped wells built to hold the monsoon water and to give the townsfolk a cool place to gather, their tiers of steps descending storey after carved storey into the earth. The grandest of them, Raniji ki Baori, built by a queen in the last year of the seventeenth century, plunges some forty-six metres down, a cathedral turned upside down, its arches and pillars leading the eye into the cool dark. Above ground, the old town is a tangle of blue-washed houses, best seen from the fort, with a lake below reflecting the palace, and on another lake a little summer pavilion where Rudyard Kipling once stayed. Quieter and more real than the great tourist cities, watched over by its overgrown fort and its bold monkeys, Bundi keeps its treasures half hidden, and rewards the traveller who comes slowly, looks up at the painted walls, and then walks down, step by step, into the beautiful dark of its wells.
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