Osian Travel Guide
The pleasant window is about October to March , the cool Rajasthan winter; the desert summer is fiercely hot.
The best time to visit Osian
The pleasant window is about October to March, the cool Rajasthan winter; the desert summer is fiercely hot.
- October to March for the cool desert seasonThe best time to visit Osian is roughly October to March, the cool, pleasant Rajasthan winter, when the desert days are mild and sunny, ideal for exploring the ancient temples, climbing to Sachiya Mata, and enjoying a camel safari or a night in a desert camp among the dunes. This is the classic and by far the most comfortable season for the Thar. For most travellers, these cool winter months are the clear choice for an Osian trip.
- Winter days, cold desert nightsIn the heart of winter, about December and January, Osian days are pleasant and sunny while the desert nights can be surprisingly cold, so if you camp in the dunes carry warm clothing for the evening and the bonfire. The light is lovely and soft for the temples and the sands, and this is a beautiful, comfortable time to enjoy both the ancient architecture and the desert, dressing warmly once the sun goes down over the Thar.
- Avoid the fierce summerThe summer, about April to June, is fiercely hot in the Thar desert around Osian, with the sun beating on the open temples and dunes, making sightseeing and any safari exhausting and uncomfortable. Unless you have a specific reason, it is best avoided. If you must come in summer, visit the temples early in the morning, drink plenty of water, wear a hat and sunscreen, and keep out of the fierce midday desert sun, which is genuinely severe here.
- The dry monsoonThe monsoon, about July to September, brings little rain to the desert around Osian, so it is not really a wet season, though there may be occasional showers and the light can be hazy. It remains hot into the early monsoon. The desert is not at its best then, and the cool winter is far preferable, but a monsoon visit is possible if you take care with the heat and time your temple visits for the cooler hours.
Osian is at its best in the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, ideal for the ancient temples and for camel safaris and desert camps among the dunes, though the winter desert nights can be surprisingly cold, so carry warm clothing for the evening. Avoid the fierce summer of about April to June, when the open temples and dunes are exhausting under the desert sun; if you come then, visit early and carry plenty of water and sun protection.
How to reach Osian, the desert oasis
Reach Osian by road or rail, about 65 to 69 km from Jodhpur, with its own station and Jodhpur the gateway city.
Osian is most easily reached by road from Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km to the north, roughly a one and a half to two hour drive across the desert, making it a popular day trip from the blue city. A hired car or taxi is the usual way, on good roads through the Thar. Many travellers combine the temples with a camel safari or a desert-camp night, and Osian is an easy, rewarding excursion from Jodhpur.
Osian has its own railway station, Osiyan, on the Jodhpur to Jaisalmer line, so it can be reached by train, with the town a short distance from the station. This makes Osian an easy stop on the rail route between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer for those travelling by train across the Thar. The larger junction at Jodhpur offers many more connections, from where a short train or road journey brings you to Osian.
The nearest airport is at Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other cities, and from there Osian is reached by road or rail. There is no airport at Osian itself. Most travellers fly to Jodhpur, see the blue city, and then visit Osian as a day trip or on the way toward Jaisalmer. The last stretch to the desert town is always by road or the local train.
Osian is a small desert town, and its main temples, the Sachiya Mata on its hill and the Mahavira Jain temple, are close together and easily walked or reached by a short local ride, with the desert camps a little way out among the dunes. A hired car or the camp's own transport handles the dunes and any safari. For the temples themselves, a little walking, including the climb to Sachiya Mata, covers the main sights.
Osian is most easily reached from Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away, a one and a half to two hour drive across the Thar, as a day trip or an overnight desert-camp experience; it also has its own station on the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer rail line. The nearest airport is Jodhpur. Combine the ancient temples with a camel safari and a night in the dunes, and weave Osian into a Jodhpur and Thar desert trip toward Jaisalmer for the fullest experience.
The ancient temples and the desert
The draws are the hilltop Sachiya Mata and the ancient Mahavira Jain temple, the Surya and Harihara temples, and the Thar dunes.
- The hilltop Sachiya Mata templeOne of the great sights of Osian is the hilltop Sachiya Mata temple, a revered and living Hindu shrine to the goddess, reached by a climb up a flight of steps beneath a series of beautifully carved arches and gateways. Ancient in origin and still much worshipped, especially by the Osval community, it rewards the climb with the shrine itself and fine views over the desert town and the dunes beyond. It is Osian's most important and atmospheric temple.
- The ancient Mahavira Jain templeThe Mahavira Jain temple, built in about the eighth century in the reign of the Pratihara king Vatsaraja, is one of the oldest surviving Jain temples in western India, a remarkable and still-worshipped survival of early medieval architecture. Dedicated to Mahavira, the great Jain teacher, its carved stone, its sanctum and its old craftsmanship make it a precious monument. To stand in a temple more than a thousand years old, still alive with worship, is a moving experience unique to Osian.
- The Surya, Harihara and other templesBeyond these two great shrines, Osian holds a cluster of other fine old temples from the eighth to twelfth centuries, including the Surya, or Sun, temple, the Harihara temples, the Pippala Devi shrine and an old stepwell, some ruined and some restored. Their carving, of gods, dancers and patterns, is the reason Osian is sometimes called the Khajuraho of Rajasthan. Wandering among these ancient temples, scattered through the town, is like walking through a museum of early Indian architecture.
- The Thar dunes and desertOsian is not only temples but desert: set in the Thar, it is a gateway to camel safaris and dune camps, so the sand dunes and the open desert are as much a part of a visit as the ancient shrines. Ride a camel out to the dunes for the sunset, spend a night in a desert camp with folk music and a bonfire, and taste the life of the Thar. The temples and the desert together are Osian's special magic.
The Sachiya Mata and Mahavira temples of Osian are not ruins but living, actively worshipped shrines, some more than a thousand years old, so treat them with the reverence due to sacred places and precious heritage. Remove your shoes, dress modestly, behave quietly, follow the customs and any rules such as those on leather at the Jain temple, and do not touch the carvings or idols. A respectful visit honours both the faith and the ancient craft of Osian.
The experiences that make Osian
Explore the ancient temples, climb to Sachiya Mata, ride a camel into the dunes, and spend a night in a desert camp.
- Explore the ancient templesThe signature Osian experience is to explore its ancient temples, the hilltop Sachiya Mata, the thousand-year-old Mahavira Jain temple, and the scattered Surya, Harihara and other old shrines, taking in their carving and their age. Give it an unhurried morning, ideally with a guide to bring out the history and the symbolism. For lovers of history and architecture, wandering these early medieval temples, some ruined and some alive with worship, is deeply rewarding and quite unlike the grand forts elsewhere.
- Climb to Sachiya MataMake the climb up to the Sachiya Mata temple on its hill, up the steps beneath the beautiful carved arches, to the living shrine of the goddess and the views over the desert town. It is a short but atmospheric ascent, part pilgrimage and part sightseeing, and among the most memorable things to do in Osian. Go in the cooler morning, climb at an easy pace, and enjoy both the sacred shrine and the wide desert panorama from the top.
- Ride a camel into the dunesAs a Thar desert gateway, Osian offers camel safaris out to the sand dunes, a classic desert experience, especially fine at sunset when the light turns the sands gold. Ride out on a camel, watch the sun go down over the endless dunes, and feel the vastness and quiet of the desert. It is a wonderful contrast to the ancient temples, and one of the highlights of Osian for many travellers, a real taste of the Thar.
- Spend a night in a desert campFor the full experience, spend a night in a desert camp among the dunes near Osian, in a comfortable tent, with folk music and dance around a bonfire, Rajasthani food under the stars, and the deep silence and cold of the desert night. A dune camp turns Osian from a temple day trip into a memorable desert overnight. Come prepared for the cold night, and enjoy one of the most atmospheric ways to experience the Thar.
For a camel safari or dune camp near Osian, choose a reputable, responsible operator: check that the camels are well treated, agree the route, time and price clearly in advance, and pick a camp with good reviews and proper facilities. Carry warm clothing for the cold desert night, water and sun protection for the day, and respect the desert environment by not littering. A well-chosen safari and camp make the Thar experience at Osian safe, comfortable and humane.
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay in a desert camp near Osian or a hotel in Jodhpur, and give Osian a half day, or a night in the dunes.
- Desert camps in the dunesThe special way to stay at Osian is in a desert camp among the sand dunes, from simple tented camps to comfortable luxury tents, with camel safaris, folk music, bonfires and Rajasthani food under the stars. Staying a night in the dunes, seeing the sunset and the desert night, is a memorable Thar experience. Book a reputable camp ahead in the winter season, come prepared for the cold night, and enjoy the desert around the ancient temples.
- Jodhpur as a baseMany travellers base in the blue city of Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away, with its great Mehrangarh fort, its wide choice of hotels and its own rich sights, and visit Osian on a day trip. This suits those wanting the attractions and comforts of Jodhpur with Osian as an excursion. Jodhpur is the most popular base, and the day trip out to the desert temples and dunes is an easy and rewarding addition to time in the city.
- A half day, or a desert nightThe temples of Osian need only about a half day to see, so the town is easily a day trip from Jodhpur. To add the desert experience, though, stay a night in a dune camp, combining the ancient temples in the day with a camel safari, sunset and a night in the dunes. This overnight turns Osian from a quick temple stop into a full desert experience, and is the more memorable way to enjoy this oasis in the Thar.
- Fit it into a Thar tripOsian fits naturally into a wider Thar desert and Rajasthan journey, especially between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, adding ancient temples and a desert-camp night to a trip of forts, blue city and golden desert. Weaving Osian into the road or rail journey toward Jaisalmer, or as a day trip from Jodhpur, gives a rich taste of both the sacred heritage and the desert life of western Rajasthan, one of the most evocative corners of the state.
Choose your stay by your taste: a desert camp among the dunes near Osian for the full Thar experience of camel safari, sunset, folk music and a starlit night, coming prepared for the cold; or a hotel in Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away, visiting Osian by day. The temples need only a half day, so a dune overnight or a day trip both work well. Weave Osian into a Jodhpur and Jaisalmer desert trip for the fullest journey.
A gentle guide to the cost of an Osian trip
The temples are cheap to visit; the main costs are the transport, and any camel safari or desert camp you add.
- Temples are cheap, transport the main costThe temples of Osian are very cheap or free to visit, so the main cost of a day trip is the transport, a hired car or taxi from Jodhpur, or the train. A shared day trip or a car split between a group keeps this low. It is the travel, and whatever desert experience you add, more than the temples themselves, that sets the budget for an Osian trip from Jodhpur, and the temples are excellent value.
- Camel safari and desert campThe bigger costs, if you want them, are the camel safari and the desert camp, which range from simple and affordable to comfortable and pricier luxury tents, often sold as packages with meals, a safari and entertainment included. Choose the level that suits your budget and check what is included, and agree any extra safari or activity price in advance. These add the memorable desert experience to Osian, and can be planned to suit a modest or a fuller budget.
- A guide for the templesA local guide for the temples, worth it to understand the Pratihara history, the age of the Mahavira temple and the symbolism of the carving beyond a quick look, adds a small, worthwhile cost. Budget a little for a guide if you want to appreciate the temples properly, and the ancient heritage of Osian is very affordable to enjoy in depth, a fine-value complement to the desert experience.
- Carry cashCarry enough cash for any temple donations, a guide, food, the safari and small buys, as Osian is a small desert town with limited card facilities, and cash is handy for the drive, the camp and roadside stops. Draw it in Jodhpur before you set out. As at many desert and rural sites, a little cash in hand for the everyday, with a card for a bigger camp bill, keeps an Osian trip smooth and free of any awkwardness.
Practical tips: the heat, the temples and the desert
A few facts help: come in the cool season, respect the living temples, choose a good desert camp, and prepare for the desert heat and cold.
- Come in the cool seasonPlan around the desert climate: Osian is loveliest in the cool months of about October to March and fiercely hot from about April to June, when the open temples and dunes are exhausting. Come in the winter if you can, and carry warm clothing for the surprisingly cold desert nights, especially if you camp. In any season carry plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen, and do the temples and any safari in the cooler morning and evening, not the fierce midday sun.
- Respect the living templesThe Sachiya Mata and Mahavira temples are living, actively worshipped and very old shrines, so treat them with respect: remove your shoes, dress modestly, behave quietly, and follow the customs, including any rule on leather at the Jain temple. Do not touch the carvings or idols, and photograph only where permitted, never intruding on worship. This is precious ancient heritage and living faith, and treating it with care and reverence is both right and rewarding.
- Choose a good desert camp and safariFor the desert experience, choose a reputable, responsible camp and camel-safari operator: check reviews, that the camels are well treated, and the facilities and safety of the camp, and agree the route, timing and price clearly in advance. Avoid the cheapest, poorly run options. A well-chosen camp and safari make the Thar experience at Osian safe, humane and comfortable, while a bad one can disappoint, so it is worth a little research beforehand.
- Prepare for the desertCome prepared for the desert: plenty of water, sun protection and a hat for the heat, warm clothing for the cold nights, good shoes for the temple steps and the sand, and any personal medicines, and carry cash, as facilities are limited. The desert is beautiful but demanding, hot by day and cold by night, so a little preparation makes all the difference between a comfortable, memorable Osian trip and a difficult one in this harsh, lovely land.
Three things shape a good Osian trip: come in the cool October-to-March season and prepare for hot days and cold nights in the desert; treat the Sachiya Mata and thousand-year-old Mahavira temples as the living, sacred shrines they are, with modest dress, shoes off and respect for the customs; and choose a reputable, humane desert camp and camel safari, agreeing the price in advance. With these, Osian's rare mix of ancient temples and open desert is a delight.
Safety at Osian and in the desert
Osian is safe; the cares are the desert heat and cold, the camel safari, the temple steps, and choosing a good camp.
- Respect the desert heat and coldThe main hazard at Osian is the desert climate, fierce heat by day, especially in summer, and surprising cold at night, so carry and drink plenty of water, wear a hat and sunscreen, do the temples and safaris in the cooler hours, and carry warm clothing for the night, particularly if you camp. Heat exhaustion and dehydration are the real risks here. Respecting the desert's extremes of heat and cold is the first rule of a safe Osian trip.
- Take care on the camel safariA camel safari is generally safe but can be uncomfortable or risky if done carelessly, so choose a reputable operator with well-treated, calm camels, mount and dismount carefully with the handler's help, hold on firmly, and do not let children ride unsupervised. Wear long trousers and a hat, and go at an easy pace. With a good operator and sensible care, a camel safari into the dunes is a safe and wonderful desert experience rather than a hazard.
- Mind the temple stepsThe climb to Sachiya Mata and the old temple structures involve steps and uneven stone, sometimes smooth or worn, so wear sturdy shoes, watch your footing, and take the climb at an easy pace, especially with children and older visitors. Inside the temples you walk barefoot on stone that can be hot or slippery. With a little care on the steps and floors, exploring the ancient temples and the hilltop shrine is a safe and rewarding part of the visit.
- Choose a good camp, and the ordinary careChoose a reputable desert camp with proper facilities and safety, and take the usual care of your belongings and agree prices in advance with drivers and operators. Osian is a small, safe and friendly town, and the desert is safe with a good camp and sensible preparation. Solo travellers, including women, generally find it easy with normal precautions and a well-chosen camp. With care over the desert, the safari and the camp, Osian is a safe and memorable trip.
Osian for every kind of traveller
Osian suits heritage lovers, pilgrims, desert travellers and families, with a little care over the heat and a good desert camp.
- Heritage and history loversFor lovers of heritage and history, Osian is a rare treasure, a desert town of temples from the eighth to twelfth centuries, including one of the oldest surviving Jain temples in western India, a living record of the great Pratihara age. Come to explore the ancient shrines and their carving, ideally with a guide, and imagine the once-great religious centre of the desert. For those who love early Indian architecture and history, Osian is deeply rewarding and quite unique.
- Pilgrims and the devoutFor pilgrims, Osian holds two important living shrines, the hilltop Sachiya Mata temple, revered by the goddess's devotees and especially the Osval community, and the ancient Mahavira Jain temple, a sacred and historic place of Jain worship. Come to worship and to take in the deep, old sanctity of these shrines in the desert. For the faithful of both traditions, Osian is a meaningful and moving pilgrimage, ancient and alive, in the heart of the Thar.
- Desert and camel-safari travellersFor those drawn to the desert, Osian is a fine and less crowded gateway to the Thar than the busier spots, with camel safaris out to the dunes, sunset rides and desert camps under the stars. Come for the sands, the silence and the desert night, combined with the ancient temples. For travellers wanting a taste of the Rajasthan desert with real heritage alongside, and away from the biggest crowds, Osian is an excellent and characterful choice.
- Families and day trippersFor families and day trippers from Jodhpur, Osian is an easy, interesting and varied outing, with the temples, the hilltop climb and, above all, the camel safari and dunes that children love, all in a half day or an overnight. Mind the heat and the desert night cold, watch children on the temple steps and the camels, and choose a good camp. For a family taste of temples and desert together near Jodhpur, Osian is a memorable and rewarding trip.
A suggested plan around Osian
A graded plan: Osian's temples and a desert-camp night, from Jodhpur toward Jaisalmer, over about one to two days.
- A day trip from JodhpurFor the simplest plan, visit Osian on a day trip from Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away: drive out in the morning, explore the hilltop Sachiya Mata temple, the ancient Mahavira Jain temple and the other old shrines, perhaps take a short camel ride into the dunes, and return to Jodhpur by evening. It makes an easy, rewarding half-day to day out from the blue city, combining ancient temples and a taste of the desert without an overnight.
- A desert-camp overnightFor the fuller experience, stay a night in a desert camp near Osian: see the temples in the day, ride a camel out to the dunes for the sunset, and spend the evening in the camp with folk music, a bonfire and Rajasthani food under the stars, before the deep desert night. This overnight turns Osian into a memorable desert experience, combining the ancient sacred heritage of the town with the sands and the night of the Thar.
- On the road to JaisalmerIf you are travelling from Jodhpur toward Jaisalmer, Osian makes a natural first stop, its temples and dunes a fitting introduction to the desert before the golden city and the greater dunes beyond. Break the journey at Osian for the temples and perhaps a camp night, then continue deeper into the Thar. This weaves Osian into the classic desert route, adding ancient heritage and an early taste of the sands to a Jodhpur-Jaisalmer trip.
- Fit it into a Rajasthan circuitWeave Osian into a wider Rajasthan journey through Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and beyond, adding ancient desert temples and a camp night to a trip of forts, blue and golden cities and the Thar. Over about one to two days for Osian and its desert experience, plus onward travel, this corner of western Rajasthan makes a rich, evocative leg of a full Rajasthan trip, blending sacred heritage and the romance of the desert in one memorable place.
The real questions travellers ask about Osian
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before an Osian trip.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Osian by road or rail from Jodhpur, about 65 to 69 km away, a one and a half to two hour drive, or by the Osiyan station on the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer line; the nearest airport is Jodhpur. The best time is the cool season of about October to March, while the summer is fiercely hot in the desert. Visit as a day trip from Jodhpur or an overnight desert camp, and combine the ancient temples with a camel safari.
- What are the main temples, and how old?Osian's main sights are the hilltop Sachiya Mata temple, a revered living Hindu shrine to the goddess reached by carved steps, and the Mahavira Jain temple, built in about the eighth century and one of the oldest surviving Jain temples in western India, still worshipped. Around them are other old temples from the eighth to twelfth centuries, the Surya, Harihara and others, whose fine carving earns Osian the nickname the Khajuraho of Rajasthan. Both main temples are living, sacred shrines.
- Can I do a camel safari and desert camp?Yes. Osian is a Thar desert gateway, so camel safaris out to the sand dunes and desert camps among them are a major part of a visit, especially fine at sunset and for a starlit night with folk music and a bonfire. Choose a reputable, humane operator and camp, agree the price in advance, and come prepared for the cold night. The temples by day and the desert by night make Osian's special double appeal, well worth an overnight.
- Is Osian good for families, and how long to stay?Osian is a good family outing, with the temples, the hilltop climb and, above all, the camel safari and dunes that children love, easily done as a day trip or an overnight from Jodhpur. Mind the desert heat and night cold, watch children on the steps and camels, and choose a good camp. The temples need a half day, and a desert-camp night adds the full experience, so one to two days suits Osian well for most travellers.
Planning Osian from abroad
For overseas visitors, Osian is an ancient desert temple town and Thar gateway reached through Jodhpur, blending old shrines and the dunes.
- Route in through JodhpurFrom abroad, fly into Delhi or Mumbai and on to Jodhpur, then reach Osian by road, about 65 to 69 km away, as a day trip or a desert-camp overnight, or on the way toward Jaisalmer. No permit is needed. Allow a half day to a day for Osian within a wider Rajasthan trip. Jodhpur is the natural gateway, and the drive out across the Thar to the ancient temples and dunes of Osian is a rewarding excursion from abroad.
- Ancient temples and the desertFor an overseas visitor, Osian offers a rare and rewarding combination, ancient desert temples from the great Pratihara age, including one of India's oldest surviving Jain temples, together with the camel safaris and dune camps of the Thar. It is a quieter, more characterful desert experience than the busiest spots, with real heritage alongside. Combined with Jodhpur and the road to Jaisalmer, it makes an evocative addition to a Rajasthan itinerary from abroad, blending faith, history and desert.
- Come in the cool seasonTime an overseas trip for the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, the ideal desert season, and avoid the fierce summer heat, when the open temples and dunes are severe. Carry warm clothing for the surprisingly cold desert nights, especially if you camp, and sun protection and water for the day. A little planning around the desert's extremes of heat and cold makes for a comfortable and memorable Osian trip from abroad.
- Respect the temples and choose a good campOverseas visitors should treat Osian's living, ancient temples with respect, removing shoes, dressing modestly, and following the customs and any leather rule at the Jain temple, and should choose a reputable, humane desert camp and camel safari, checking reviews and agreeing prices in advance. Coming with respect for the faith and heritage, and care in choosing a good, ethical desert experience, an overseas visitor finds Osian a rewarding and authentic taste of the Thar and its ancient shrines.
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry cash, expect fair connectivity, time the trip for the cool season, and combine Osian with Jodhpur and the Thar.
- Carry cash from JodhpurDraw enough Indian rupees in cash in Jodhpur before heading to Osian, as it is a small desert town with limited card facilities, and temple donations, guides, safaris, food and small buys are largely cash matters. For an overseas visitor, a mix of cash for the everyday and a card for a bigger desert-camp bill is the smoothest way to handle money at Osian, far from the banks and card machines of the city.
- Connectivity is reasonableMobile coverage is reasonable in Osian and on the Jodhpur road, though it can be patchy out in the deeper desert and dune camps, so download maps and details in advance and get an Indian prepaid SIM for the trip. Connectivity is fair around the town, so an overseas visitor can navigate and stay in touch, though it is wise not to rely on a strong signal out in the dunes at a desert camp, and to plan logistics ahead.
- Time it for the cool seasonPlan the trip for the cool, pleasant months of about October to March, the ideal desert season for the temples and the safari, and avoid the fierce summer heat. Carry warm clothing for the cold desert nights and sun protection for the day. Timing an overseas trip for the cool season is the single most important thing for a comfortable and enjoyable visit to Osian and the Thar, so plan the dates around the desert winter.
- Combine with Jodhpur and JaisalmerFor an overseas visitor, Osian is best enjoyed with the blue city of Jodhpur and its great fort, and as part of a wider Thar desert journey toward Jaisalmer. An operator or a self-drive or rail itinerary can easily weave Osian into a rewarding trip of forts, blue and golden cities and the desert. Rather than a lone stop, treat Osian as one evocative jewel of a western Rajasthan and Thar desert trip, rich in heritage and sand.
A thousand years of stone at the edge of the Thar
North of the blue city of Jodhpur, where the fields give out and the Thar desert begins, lies the old town of Osian, an oasis in the sand that was, more than a thousand years ago, a rich and holy city of the desert. In the great age of the Pratihara kings, between about the eighth and the twelfth centuries, temple after temple rose here in carved golden stone, to Vishnu and Shiva and Surya the sun, and to the teachers of the Jains, and Osian became one of the chief religious centres of the desert kingdom of Marwar. Much was lost in the centuries that followed, but a wonderful group of these ancient temples still stands, their walls alive with carved gods and dancers and endless patterns, so fine that people have called Osian the Khajuraho of Rajasthan. Two of them are living shrines still: high on a hill, reached by a stair of beautifully carved arches, the temple of the goddess Sachiya Mata, thronged with her devotees; and, older than almost any Jain temple left in western India, the temple of Mahavira, raised here in the eighth century and worshipped without a break ever since. And all around lie the sands. For Osian is a gateway to the Thar, and travellers who come for the temples stay for the desert too, riding out on camels to the dunes at evening, watching the sun sink red over the endless sand, and spending the cold, star-brilliant night in a camp among the folk songs and the fires. Temples a thousand years old, and a desert older still: at Osian the two lie side by side, and the traveller who comes carries away both the carved stone and the silence of the sand.
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