01Season
When to visit Aritar and the Silk Route
The clearest skies and the best Kanchenjunga views come in October and November, and the rhododendrons bloom on the high Silk Route from March to May. The high loop can be snowbound in deep winter, and the monsoon is best avoided on these slopes.
- October and November: clear and goldenThis is the finest window. The air is dry and sharp after the monsoon, Mankhim gives its cleanest Kanchenjunga sunrise, and the high Silk Route is open and crisp. Days are pleasant and nights are cold, so carry a warm layer even at Aritar.
- March to May: rhododendron seasonSpring paints the higher slopes toward Zuluk and Nathang with rhododendron and wildflowers as the snow melts. Skies are less reliable than autumn, but for bloom and for softer cold this is the next best time to drive the loop.
- Late January to March: snow, and closuresSnow lovers come for a white Nathang, but the high loop past Zuluk can be shut for days when heavy snow and black ice close the road. If your heart is set on snow, keep your plan flexible and let your operator judge the road each morning.
- June to September: monsoon, best avoidedHeavy rain brings landslides on the narrow Rongli road and leeches to the lower forest, and clouds hide the peaks for days. It is green and quiet, but it is the hardest time to actually see and drive the region.
Two different trips in one regionBe clear before you book whether you want gentle, low Aritar with its lake, monastery and sunrise point, or the high, cold Old Silk Route loop up to Nathang above 13,000 ft. Aritar sits at a comfortable altitude and suits almost everyone in most months. The high loop is a serious mountain drive with real altitude and weather risk, and it is the part that closes in deep winter. Many travellers do both, but they are not the same experience, and older travellers or families with young children may happily keep to Aritar alone.
- Fly to Bagdogra, the reliable airportBagdogra near Siliguri is the practical airport, about 120 to 125 km and roughly 4.5 to 5 hours by road from Aritar. Pakyong airport in Sikkim is much closer but has only limited and changeable flights, so do not rely on it without checking current routes. There are no flights into Aritar itself.
- Train to New Jalpaiguri (NJP)NJP is the nearest big railhead, a similar distance away, and the usual rail gateway from Kolkata and the rest of India. From NJP or Siliguri you pick up a car or shared jeep for the drive into East Sikkim.
- The drive in, via Rangpo and RongliThe road follows the Teesta river up NH10, enters Sikkim at the Rangpo check post where every visitor shows a photo ID, then climbs through Rongli toward Aritar. A reserved small car from Bagdogra or NJP is about 3,000 to 3,500 rupees, and a shared jeep seat is about 200 to 300 rupees per person.
- From Gangtok or KalimpongAritar is about 67 km from Gangtok and about 52 km from Kalimpong, both a few hours on winding hill roads. Many travellers pair Aritar with Gangtok or with a Kalimpong and Darjeeling loop rather than making it a trip on its own.
From the US, UK and Europe
Fly into Delhi or Kolkata, connect to Bagdogra, then drive into East Sikkim. Note that foreign passport holders need a Sikkim entry permit and cannot do the high Zuluk Silk Route loop, so plan Aritar, Gangtok and Kalimpong instead, covered in the overseas section.
From the Gulf and Southeast Asia
Fly into Kolkata or Delhi, then onward to Bagdogra and drive up via Rangpo. Keep a day in hand for the entry permit and the slow mountain roads.
Within India
Fly to Bagdogra or train to NJP, then drive in by reserved car or shared jeep. Indian travellers can do the full Silk Route loop with a Protected Area Permit arranged through a Sikkim operator.
03What to see
Lampokhari Lake, Aritar Gumpa and Mankhim
Aritar is its old lake, its ancient monastery, the Mankhim sunrise point and a British bungalow with a story. A few of these are open to everyone, while the high Silk Route beyond needs a permit.
- Lampokhari (Aritar Lake, Ghati Tso)The heart of the town, a boot-shaped lake at about 4,600 ft, said to be one of the oldest natural lakes in Sikkim and widely called the only boat-ready lake in the state. A paved walkway rings the water, there are tea and fish-feeding stalls, and short boat rides are about 50 rupees per person. It is calm, green and gentle, good for all ages.
- Aritar Gumpa monasteryA monastery of the Karma Kagyu order, counted among the oldest and holiest in Sikkim, with traditional architecture, carved and painted murals and old manuscripts. Remove your shoes, keep your voice low, and ask before photographing inside. It is a short drive from the lake.
- Mankhim (Mankhim Dara), the sunrise pointThe high point above town at about 6,500 ft, with a temple of the Rai community and the best Kanchenjunga sunrise in the area. On a clear morning you see the lake far below and, on the brightest days, the ridges toward Zuluk and Jelep La. Stay at or near the top to catch the dawn without a pre-light climb.
- Ari-Bangla and aroundAri-Bangla is the old British dak bungalow at Aritar, built about 1895 by Sikkim's first Political Officer. Nearby you can pair short stops like the Changey waterfall and the quiet villages of Rongli, Rolep and Reshikhola by the river for a full, slow day.
What needs a permit and what does notLampokhari, the monastery, Mankhim and Aritar village are open to all visitors once you hold your Sikkim entry permit. The famous high sights beyond, Zuluk, Thambi View Point, Nathang Valley, Kupup and Baba Mandir, sit in a protected border zone and need a separate permit, and foreign nationals cannot go there at all. Plan the two parts of your trip with that line in mind, and read the Silk Route section next.
04The famous loop
The Old Silk Route from Aritar, and the permit rules
Aritar is the gentle low base for the Old Silk Route, the historic caravan road over Jelep La. The high loop is unforgettable, but it is a permit zone, closed to foreign passports and demanding on the body.
- The classic loopFrom Aritar the road climbs through Rongli and Padamchen to Zuluk, then up past Thambi View Point, Lungthung, Nathang (Gnathang) Valley, Kupup and Baba Mandir, joining the Tsomgo (Changu) Lake road down to Gangtok. Thambi View Point famously looks down on about 32 hairpin bends of the zigzag road.
- The permit for Indian travellersIndian nationals need a Protected Area Permit for the loop beyond Rongli. You cannot get it yourself as a walk-in tourist; a registered Sikkim operator arranges it, and it is collected at the Rongli permit office with a photo ID and about 3 to 4 passport photographs per person. Carry the originals too.
- The hard rule for foreign passportsForeign nationals, including many NRIs travelling on a foreign passport, are not allowed on the Zuluk to Nathang to Kupup loop, because it runs along the sensitive border with Tibet. This is a firm rule, not a formality that can be waived, so build your trip around Aritar, Gangtok and Kalimpong instead.
- The road, honestlyIt is beautiful and slow. The route from Rongli is narrow and sometimes broken, monsoon brings landslides, and winter brings black ice and possible closures past Zuluk. Go with an experienced local driver, start early, and let the driver judge the road each day.
This is real high altitudeThe high loop is not a casual drive. Zuluk sits around 7,000 to 10,000 ft, Thambi View Point about 11,200 ft, and Nathang Valley about 13,500 ft, with Lungthung and Kupup near 13,000 ft. Altitude sickness is a genuine risk. Spend your first night lower at Aritar or Zuluk to acclimatise, drink water often, avoid alcohol on the first day, and keep warm layers on hand. Anyone with heart or breathing conditions, and families with very young children, should take medical advice before going high, or simply enjoy Aritar and stay low.
- Boating on LampokhariA short, gentle row on the old lake is the signature Aritar experience, about 50 rupees per person for roughly 30 minutes in a small shared boat. The paved path around the water is a lovely slow walk if you would rather not go out on it. The small fee is set locally and can change, so reconfirm at the stall.
- Sunrise from MankhimIf you do one thing early, make it the Mankhim sunrise. Stay at or near the top so you can step out into the dawn and watch the first light turn Kanchenjunga gold over the lake. On the clearest days you can pick out the far ridges toward Zuluk.
- The Silk Route drive, if you qualifyFor Indian travellers with a permit, the drive up to Thambi View Point, Lungthung and Nathang is the great set-piece: hairpin bends, prayer flags and huge Himalayan views. Go slowly, stop often to breathe and photograph, and treat it as a full day rather than a dash.
- Slow village timeAritar rewards an unhurried pace. Walk the lake path, sit with a homestay family over tea, wander to the monastery, and drive out to Rolep or Reshikhola by the river. This quiet, low-key rhythm is what sets Aritar apart from the busier hill stations.
- Try the local foodHomestay kitchens serve simple, warming meals: rice, dal, seasonal vegetables, and often a bowl of thukpa or momos. It is honest hill food rather than a fancy menu, and it is part of the charm. Tell your host about any dietary needs when you book.
- Photograph the changing lightThe lake at first light, mist in the valley, prayer flags on the high passes and the zigzag road at Thambi are the frames people come back with. Ask before photographing people at prayer, and carry spare batteries, as the cold drains them fast.
The one thing not to rushGive yourself a slow morning at the lake and a proper dawn at Mankhim. The boating and the sunrise are gentle, free or nearly free, and open to everyone, and they are what people remember long after the drive fades. A single night at Aritar lets you catch both without hurry, which a day trip from Gangtok never quite allows.
06Homestays and how long
Where to stay in Aritar and on the Silk Route
This is homestay country. Stay by the lake or up at Mankhim for the sunrise, and expect simple, warm, family-run rooms rather than hotels.
- By the lakeHomestays and a few small resorts sit around Lampokhari, walking distance to the water and the walkway. Convenient and pretty, and the natural base if you want the lake at first light and an easy, flat stroll in the evening.
- Up at MankhimStaying near the Mankhim sunrise point means you wake to the Kanchenjunga dawn with no pre-light climb, and you look down on the lake and the valley. It is higher and quieter, and a favourite for the view. Bring warm layers, as nights are cold up here.
- On the high loopZuluk and Nathang have basic homestays only, run by local families, often with the word resort in the name despite plain rooms and shared warmth. Book ahead in season, keep expectations simple, and confirm whether dinner and breakfast are included.
- Room budgetsA homestay room with home-cooked meals is typically about 1,000 to 1,500 rupees per person per night. Prices are similar across the circuit and rise a little in peak autumn and snow weeks, so book early for October, November and the winter snow window.
How many nightsFor Aritar alone, one night is enough to catch a sunset, a Mankhim sunrise, the lake and the monastery, and two nights let you slow right down or add Rolep and Reshikhola. For the full Silk Route loop with proper acclimatisation, give it about 3 to 5 nights, sleeping low the first night and climbing gradually. Do not try to see Aritar and the whole high loop in a single rushed day.
- A modest Silk Route tripA simple three-day trip on shared transport and homestays can come to roughly 5,000 to 8,000 rupees per person all in. A comfortable private-car circuit with reserved rooms costs more, mostly because of the vehicle.
- TransportA reserved small car from Bagdogra or NJP is about 3,000 to 3,500 rupees, a shared jeep seat about 200 to 300 rupees per person, and a dedicated Silk Route vehicle with driver is commonly about 3,000 to 4,500 rupees per day, more for a larger or four-wheel-drive vehicle in snow.
- Rooms, food and the small thingsHomestay rooms with meals run about 1,000 to 1,500 rupees per person a night. Boating at Lampokhari is about 50 rupees per person. A rough daily spend for food and local extras at Aritar, outside your room and long-distance transport, is about 2,000 rupees per person.
- Carry cashThere are ATMs at Rongli and Gangtok but hardly any mid-route, and homestays and drivers mostly want cash. Draw enough at Gangtok or Rongli for the whole loop, keep small notes, and confirm what your homestay rate includes before you arrive.
The habit that saves moneyThe biggest single cost is the vehicle, so the smart move is to agree the car, the route and the daily rate in writing with a registered operator before you set off, and to share a jeep where you can. Prices here are fair and not pushy, but a rate settled in advance, with the permit arrangement included, removes the only real friction and keeps a Silk Route trip genuinely affordable.
08On the ground
Practical logistics: network, cash, permits and getting around
The small things that make an East Sikkim trip smooth, from weak mobile signal to cash, permits and the no-smoking rule.
- Network and powerSignal is patchy. BSNL and sometimes Jio work around Aritar and Rongli, Airtel is unreliable, and past Padamchen the network largely disappears. Small towns can have evening power cuts, so carry a power bank and a torch, and download your maps offline before you climb.
- Cash and ATMsThere are ATMs at Rongli and Gangtok but hardly any mid-route. Homestays, drivers and stalls mostly run on cash, so draw what you need for the whole loop before you go up and keep small notes handy.
- Permits and IDEvery visitor shows a government photo ID at the Rangpo check post. For the high Silk Route, Indians need a Protected Area Permit arranged by an operator, with about 3 to 4 passport photos each; foreign passports cannot do the loop. Keep IDs, photos and photocopies handy throughout.
- Getting around and the rulesThere is no local bus network to speak of; you travel by reserved car or shared jeep arranged in advance. Sikkim is a no-smoking state, so do not drop stubs, which can start a fire, and carry your own bag for litter, as bins are scarce on the high road.
09Stay safe and well
Safety, altitude and staying well
Aritar is gentle and very safe, but the high Silk Route is genuine high altitude and mountain road, so the real risks here are the cold, the height and the drive, not crime.
- Altitude on the high loopNathang above 13,000 ft and the passes near Kupup are high enough to bring headache, breathlessness and nausea. Sleep low the first night at Aritar or Zuluk, climb gradually, drink water, avoid alcohol on day one, and turn back or descend if symptoms worsen. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should take medical advice first.
- Cold and weatherEven in autumn the high valleys drop below freezing at night, and winter can hit around minus 10 degrees with snow and black ice. Pack thermals, a warm jacket, gloves and a hat, and accept that the driver may change the plan if the road is unsafe.
- The road and the driverThe narrow Rongli road, the hairpins and the possible landslides mean your driver matters more than anything. Use an experienced local driver through a registered operator, start early, and never rush a hill road to keep a schedule.
- Everyday safety and healthCrime is not a real worry here; East Sikkim is calm and welcoming, and solo and family travellers report feeling safe. Drink bottled or boiled water, carry a basic medical kit and any personal medicines, and keep leech socks or salt for the monsoon forest lower down.
Families, seniors and the stay-low optionYou do not have to go high to enjoy this region. Aritar sits at a comfortable altitude and its lake, monastery and Mankhim sunrise are gentle and safe for grandparents and young children alike. If anyone in your group struggles with height, the cold or the winding roads, keep to Aritar and the lower villages and let the fittest members do a day trip toward Zuluk. That way no one is pushed beyond what is comfortable.
- CouplesQuiet, soulful and unhurried: a lakeside homestay, a Mankhim sunrise together, and the long, scenic drive if you want it. An overnight rather than a day trip lets you catch both dusk and dawn.
- Families with childrenAritar itself is easy and gentle, with the lake, the boat ride and open space. On the high loop, weigh the altitude carefully for young children, keep the first night low, and be ready to keep them at Aritar rather than pushing to Nathang.
- Senior travellers and on accessibilityVery doable if you stay low. Aritar and the lake walkway are flat and calm, and a Mankhim homestay brings the sunrise to your doorstep. The high passes and the long winding drive are tiring and cold, so consider skipping the top of the loop and enjoying the gentle base instead.
- Offbeat and slow travellersThis is the region's natural crowd. Few tourists, homestay warmth, old monasteries and a lake with a story make Aritar a place to slow down for a few days rather than tick off. Come with time and an open plan.
- Solo travellersEast Sikkim is calm and safe for solo travel, and homestay hosts look after you well. Arrange your car and permit through a trusted operator, and share a jeep to keep the Silk Route affordable when travelling alone.
- PhotographersSunrise at Mankhim, the lake at first light, the zigzag road at Thambi and the wide Nathang valley are the frames to chase. Carry spare batteries for the cold, and always ask before photographing people at prayer or at home.
11Suggested plans
A suggested Aritar and Silk Route itinerary
How to shape one gentle stay at Aritar, or a longer loop that climbs safely, so you get the light, the lake and the high views without rushing.
- The gentle Aritar break (2 days)Drive in from NJP or Bagdogra, settle by the lake, and catch the sunset. Next morning take the Mankhim sunrise, boat on Lampokhari, visit Aritar Gumpa, and wander to Rolep or Reshikhola before you leave. Low, calm and open to everyone.
- Aritar plus the Silk Route (4 to 5 days)Night one low at Aritar to acclimatise. Then climb through Rongli to Zuluk for a night, up to Thambi, Lungthung and Nathang the next day, on past Kupup and Baba Mandir to Tsomgo Lake, and down to Gangtok. Indian travellers only, with the permit arranged in advance.
- Add Gangtok or KalimpongMany travellers bookend the loop with a night in Gangtok or fold Aritar into a Kalimpong and Darjeeling trip. It slots neatly onto a wider East Himalaya route rather than being a destination on its own.
- The overseas-friendly versionIf you carry a foreign passport, skip the high loop and build a legal trip around Aritar, Gangtok, Tsomgo Lake with the right permit, and Kalimpong. You still get lakes, monasteries, sunrises and big Himalayan views, just not the border-zone road.
Acclimatise before you go highThe single thing that spoils a Silk Route trip is climbing to Nathang above 13,000 ft on day one and being knocked flat by altitude. Build your plan so the first night is low, at Aritar or Zuluk, and you gain height gradually over the following days. Keep water, warm layers and a flexible attitude to the weather, and let your driver read the road each morning. Done at a sensible pace, the loop is one of the great Himalayan drives.
- Can foreigners do the Silk Route?No. Foreign nationals are not allowed on the Zuluk to Nathang to Kupup loop because it runs along the sensitive border. They can still visit Aritar, its lake, monastery and Mankhim, and, with the right permit, Gangtok and Tsomgo Lake. Check current rules with Sikkim Tourism before you travel.
- What permit do I need and where do I get it?Everyone shows a photo ID at Rangpo to enter Sikkim. For the high Silk Route, Indian travellers need a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered operator and collected at Rongli. Foreign passport holders also need a Restricted Area Permit just to enter Sikkim, issued on the strength of an Indian visa.
- How many photos and which ID?Carry a government photo ID such as a voter card, Aadhaar or driving licence, plus about 3 to 4 passport-size photographs per person, with photocopies. Your operator uses these to process the Protected Area Permit at Rongli.
- Is Aritar worth it on its own?Yes, if you like quiet. The lake, the sunrise from Mankhim, the old monastery and the homestay warmth make a gentle, low-altitude break that many travellers enjoy without going high at all. If you want drama and hairpins, add the Silk Route loop.
- What is the road like and does it close?The road from Rongli is narrow, slow and sometimes broken, with landslides in the monsoon and black ice and possible closures past Zuluk in deep winter. Go with an experienced driver and keep your plan flexible in the snow months.
- Is there network and are there ATMs?Barely, on the high loop. BSNL and sometimes Jio work near Aritar and Rongli, but signal fades past Padamchen. ATMs are only at Rongli and Gangtok, so carry enough cash for the whole trip.
13NRI and foreign travellers
Planning Aritar from abroad, and where you can go
Aritar is a beautiful, gentle corner of the Himalayas, and it is open to overseas visitors. The one thing to understand first is the permit map, and that the high Silk Route loop is closed to foreign passports.
- You need a permit just to enter SikkimForeign passport holders need a Restricted Area Permit, also called an Inner Line Permit, to enter Sikkim at all. Per Sikkim Tourism it is issued on the strength of an Indian visa, is valid for an initial 30 days, and is given on the spot at the Rangpo or Melli entry posts against passport and visa copies and two photographs. Reconfirm the current rule before you travel.
- The high Silk Route is off-limits to youThis is the key point many pages miss: foreign nationals cannot do the Zuluk to Nathang to Kupup loop, because it lies in a protected border zone. Do not book a package that promises it on a foreign passport. NRIs travelling on an Indian passport are treated as Indian nationals for this rule, but OCI cardholders and anyone travelling on a foreign passport are treated as foreign nationals, so the loop is closed to them too; reconfirm the current entry permit rule for OCI holders with Sikkim Tourism before you travel.
- Where you can go, and it is lovelyYou can enjoy Aritar, Lampokhari lake, Aritar Gumpa and the Mankhim sunrise, and build a wider trip through Gangtok, Tsomgo (Changu) Lake with the right permit, and Kalimpong. That is a rich Himalayan trip in itself, with lakes, monasteries and big mountain views.
- Gentle and senior-friendly at AritarAritar sits at a comfortable altitude, so it suits overseas parents and grandparents who would find the high passes hard. Stay by the lake or at Mankhim, keep to gentle days, and let this be the calm, soulful chapter of an East Himalaya trip.
14Money, SIM and timing
Money, connectivity and timing for foreign visitors
The practical basics an overseas traveller needs for a remote hill region: cash, a working SIM, and how many days to give Aritar on a wider India trip.
- Carry cash, and draw it earlyHomestays, drivers and stalls run on cash, and ATMs are only at Gangtok and Rongli. Draw what you need in Siliguri or Gangtok before you head into the hills, and keep small notes for tea, boating and tips.
- Sort a SIM in the plainsAn Indian tourist SIM can be slow to activate, so arrange it in Kolkata, Delhi or Siliguri, not in a small hill town. Even then, expect weak signal at Aritar and almost none higher up, so download offline maps and tell family you may be off-grid for a day or two.
- How long to give itOn a wider India or East Himalaya trip, two nights at Aritar is a good weight, enough for the lake, a sunrise and the monastery. Fold it into a Gangtok and Kalimpong loop rather than making the long drive just for Aritar alone.
- Time it for clear skiesOctober and November give the clearest Kanchenjunga views, and spring brings rhododendrons. Avoid the June to September monsoon, when landslides and cloud can hide both the peaks and the road for days.
On a first trip to this regionEast Sikkim is remote and slow, and that is the reward. Give yourself a night to acclimatise and adjust, keep your plan loose in case the weather or the road changes, and lean on your homestay hosts and a good local operator for everything from the permit to the car. Handled that way, Aritar becomes the quiet, memorable heart of a Himalayan trip rather than a stressful detour.
15The offbeat break
Aritar and the Silk Route for Indian travellers
For travellers from Kolkata, Siliguri and across India, Aritar is an easy offbeat escape and the gateway to the one Silk Route loop that Indian passports can drive.
- The NJP or Bagdogra runTrain to New Jalpaiguri or fly to Bagdogra, both about 120 to 125 km and roughly 4.5 to 5 hours by road from Aritar. Book a reserved car or a shared jeep at NJP or Siliguri and drive up via Rangpo and Rongli.
- The loop is yours to driveIndian nationals can do the full Silk Route with a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered operator and collected at Rongli, with a photo ID and about 3 to 4 passport photos each. This is the great advantage domestic travellers have over foreign visitors here.
- A long-weekend or a proper weekFrom Kolkata or North Bengal you can do Aritar and a taste of the Silk Route in a long weekend, or give it 4 to 5 days to climb safely to Nathang and come down through Gangtok. Book homestays ahead in the autumn and snow weeks.
- Pair it with Gangtok and KalimpongAritar sits well on a wider East Sikkim and Kalimpong circuit, so many Indian travellers loop Gangtok, Tsomgo Lake, the Silk Route and Kalimpong in one trip. Carry warm clothes and plenty of cash for the whole run.
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The caravan road and the British bungalowWhy Aritar sits on a road older than the border
Long before there were permits and check posts, Aritar guarded a gentle approach to the Old Silk Route, the caravan trail that climbed over Jelep La to carry wool, salt and traders between the plains of Bengal, Sikkim and Tibet. That old trade is why the high road above Aritar still winds past Zuluk and Nathang in its famous zigzags. Down at the lake, the region's other memory is Ari-Bangla, the dak bungalow built about 1895 by Sir James Claude White, the first British Political Officer of Sikkim, on whose grounds Sikkim's first treasury was set up and its police raised their first outpost around 1897. Stand by Lampokhari at dawn, with Kanchenjunga catching the light above one of the oldest natural lakes in Sikkim, and you are looking at a crossroads of trade, faith and empire that most visitors drive straight past.