Kanatal Travel Guide
The pleasant window is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings cold and snow, and the monsoon brings landslide risk.
The best time to visit Kanatal
The pleasant window is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings cold and snow, and the monsoon brings landslide risk.
- March to June for green, mild daysThe loveliest window at Kanatal is roughly March to June, when the ridge is green, the apple orchards blossom and fruit, and the weather is mild and pleasant, cool and lovely after the heat of the plains. This is the classic season for camping, bonfires and the easy activities, and for the drives to Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake. For most travellers, and especially families and first timers, this warm, green season is the ideal time for a Kanatal retreat.
- Autumn for clear mountain viewsAfter the monsoon, into about September to November, the air is washed clean and the hills quiet, with clear Himalayan views and thinning crowds, a beautiful and calmer time to visit. The days are pleasant and the nights turn cold as autumn deepens, so carry warm layers. For crisp light, clear views from Surkanda Devi and a peaceful forest camp, these autumn weeks are among the finest of the whole year at Kanatal.
- Winter snow, with careIn winter, about December to February, Kanatal turns cold and can receive snow, a real draw for those who come to see and play in it, with cosy camps and resorts and wood fires. But it is cold, and snow can affect the hill roads from Mussoorie and Chamba, so check conditions and come prepared with warm gear. Winter suits those who want the snow and the quiet more than the green forest and the activities, and who do not mind the cold.
- The green, misty monsoonThe monsoon, about July to September, brings rain, drifting mist and the greenest of forests to Kanatal, atmospheric and lush but often cloudy, with the views coming and going. The rain also brings a risk of landslides on the Garhwal hill roads, so travel needs flexibility and patience then. If you come in the monsoon, keep your plans loose, travel by day, and enjoy the green, misty calm rather than expecting clear mountain panoramas.
Kanatal is loveliest in the pleasant months of about March to June, when the ridge is green, and again in the clear autumn of September to November. Winter, about December to February, brings cold and snow that can affect the hill roads. The monsoon, July to September, brings lush green and mist but also landslide risk on the Garhwal roads. Whenever you come, carry warm layers, as the ridge is cool once the sun drops behind the deodars.
How to reach Kanatal, on the Chamba-Mussoorie road
Reach Kanatal by road, about 78 km from Dehradun and 38 km from Mussoorie, an easy weekend drive from Delhi.
Kanatal is reached by road, on the scenic Chamba to Mussoorie route in the Garhwal hills, about 78 km from Dehradun, 38 km from Mussoorie and 18 km from Chamba. From Delhi it is roughly 300 km, an easy weekend drive or overnight bus to Dehradun or Rishikesh and a hill drive up. A hired car or the regular buses and shared taxis on the Mussoorie-Chamba road serve the area, and the drive up through the forest is part of the pleasure.
The nearest airport is the Jolly Grant airport at Dehradun, well connected to Delhi and other cities, and about a two to three hour drive from Kanatal up into the hills. From the airport a taxi or a pre-arranged transfer brings you to Kanatal by road. For travellers short on time, flying to Dehradun and driving up is the quickest way to reach the Garhwal ridge, and far faster than the long road journey from Delhi.
The nearest railheads are at Dehradun and Rishikesh, both well connected by train from Delhi and other cities, including overnight services. From either, it is a scenic road journey of a few hours up into the hills to Kanatal, by taxi or bus. The train to Dehradun or Rishikesh and a hill drive up is a comfortable and affordable way to reach Kanatal, especially as an overnight from Delhi that saves a day of driving.
Kanatal itself is a small, spread-out village of camps and resorts along the ridge, so a vehicle is handy for reaching Surkanda Devi, Dhanaulti, Tehri Lake and the Kodia forest nearby. Many camps arrange local transport and activities, or you can hire a taxi for the day. For a family or group touring the Garhwal hills, a hired car with a driver who knows the roads gives the most freedom and comfort to link the scattered sights.
Kanatal is an easy Garhwal weekend, about 78 km from Dehradun, 38 km from Mussoorie and roughly 300 km from Delhi. Take an overnight train or bus to Dehradun or Rishikesh, or fly to Jolly Grant airport, and drive up into the hills. A hired car gives the most freedom to reach Surkanda Devi, Dhanaulti and Tehri Lake, while the buses and shared taxis on the Mussoorie-Chamba road serve the area affordably. Travel the hill roads by day for the easiest journey.
The temple, the lake and the forest
The draws are the sacred Surkanda Devi temple, the great Tehri Lake and dam, the Kodia forest, and nearby Dhanaulti.
- The sacred Surkanda Devi templeAbove the road at Kaddukhal, near Kanatal, stands the revered Surkanda Devi temple, a sacred Shakti Peeth at about 2,750 metres, where by legend the head of the goddess Sati fell. Reached by a steep climb of about 2.5 km on foot, and in recent years also by a ropeway, it rewards you with a holy shrine and grand, sweeping views over the Himalayan ranges. It is the great sight near Kanatal, a genuine pilgrimage with a magnificent outlook.
- The great Tehri Lake and damWithin reach of Kanatal lies the vast Tehri Lake, the great reservoir of the Tehri dam on the Bhagirathi river, one of the tallest dams in the country, its blue waters winding among the hills. A day trip to the lake for the views, and for boating and water sports on the reservoir, is a remarkable and popular excursion. The scale of the dam and the beauty of the lake make this one of the most striking sights in the whole Garhwal region.
- The Kodia forest and orchardsAround Kanatal spreads the quiet Kodia forest, or Kodia jungle, of oak and deodar, lovely for nature walks, birdwatching and camping, along with the apple orchards that dot the ridge. This gentle green setting, more than any single monument, is the real charm of Kanatal, a place to walk in the woods, breathe the mountain air and unwind. A stroll in the Kodia forest is one of the simplest and most restful pleasures of a stay here.
- Dhanaulti, close byVery near Kanatal lies the small hill spot of Dhanaulti, famous for its thick deodar forests, its eco parks and its quiet, cool air, an easy and popular add on to a Kanatal trip. Together the two make a gentle pair of green Garhwal retreats away from the bustle of Mussoorie. Give an afternoon to Dhanaulti's forest walks and eco parks, and you round out a Kanatal stay with more of the peaceful woodland that is the region's great appeal.
The Surkanda Devi temple is a revered Shakti Peeth, a genuine pilgrimage site, not just a viewpoint. Climb with respect, behave quietly at the shrine, remove your shoes and follow local custom, and dress modestly, and take the steep 2.5 km ascent, or the ropeway, at a sensible pace given the altitude. A visit made with that reverence honours the faith of the pilgrims who come here, and the magnificent Himalayan view from the top is all the more moving for it.
The experiences that make Kanatal
Camp in the pine forest, climb to Surkanda Devi, boat on Tehri Lake, and unwind in the quiet Garhwal hills.
- Camp and unwind in the forestThe signature Kanatal experience is to camp in the pine and deodar forest, with a bonfire under the stars, simple comforts and the quiet of the hills, the reason so many come here for a weekend away from the city. Whether in a comfortable resort tent or a simpler camp, the pleasure is in slowing down, walking in the woods, and enjoying the cool air and the fire at night. For a relaxed forest escape, Kanatal is made for it.
- Climb to Surkanda DeviA highlight is the trip to the sacred Surkanda Devi temple, a steep climb of about 2.5 km on foot from Kaddukhal, or the ropeway, up to the Shakti Peeth at about 2,750 metres with its sweeping Himalayan views. Go early for the clear morning air and the sunrise light on the peaks, visit the shrine with respect, and enjoy one of the grandest viewpoints in the region. It is a rewarding half day of pilgrimage and panorama from Kanatal.
- Boat on Tehri LakeA day trip to the great Tehri Lake, the huge reservoir behind the Tehri dam, is a fine adventure from Kanatal, with boating, jet skiing and other water sports on the blue water among the hills, and the sight of one of the tallest dams in the country. It is a striking contrast to the forest and a fun day for families and the adventurous. Give a day to the lake, and you add a remarkable, watery highlight to a hill retreat.
- Easy adventure and forest walksKanatal offers gentle adventure and nature: easy walks and treks in the Kodia forest, birdwatching, rappelling, ziplining and other camp activities, apple orchard visits in season, and simply wandering the ridge. None of it is strenuous or extreme; the mood is relaxed and family friendly. Combine a forest walk, a camp activity or two, and the drives to Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake, and you have a full, easy few days in the green Garhwal hills.
Set your expectations kindly: Kanatal is a quiet forest retreat of camps and resorts, not a town packed with monuments and markets. The pleasure is in slowing down, camping, walking in the Kodia forest, and taking easy day trips to Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake, rather than ticking off sights. Come to relax and unwind in the green hills, with a couple of gentle excursions, and Kanatal is a delight; come expecting a busy tourist town, and you may be puzzled by its calm.
Where to stay, and how long to give it
Stay in a forest camp or a ridge resort at Kanatal, and give it and the Garhwal hills about two to four days.
- Forest camps and tented staysKanatal is famous for its forest camps and tented stays, from simple adventure camps to comfortable luxury tents, set among the pines with bonfires and activities, the classic way to experience the ridge. Staying in a camp, with the forest around and the fire at night, is the heart of the Kanatal experience. Book ahead for weekends and the busy seasons, when the popular camps fill quickly, and choose the level of comfort that suits your group.
- Resorts and homestays on the ridgeFor more comfort, Kanatal and the ridge toward Dhanaulti have a growing range of resorts, cottages and homestays, many with fine forest and valley views and warm rooms for the cold nights, suited to families and those who prefer a solid roof to a tent. These make a comfortable base for the drives to Surkanda Devi, Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti. Choose a resort or homestay for an easier, warmer stay, especially in the colder months or with young children.
- Give Kanatal two to four daysKanatal is a place to relax rather than rush, so give it about two to four days: time to camp and unwind, walk the Kodia forest, climb to Surkanda Devi, and take a day trip to Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti. A single night feels hurried; a few unhurried days let the quiet of the hills do its work. Do not treat Kanatal as a quick stop; its whole point is the slow, restful pace of a forest retreat.
- Fit it into a Garhwal tripPlan Kanatal within a wider Garhwal loop rather than alone: Kanatal and Dhanaulti for the forest and camps, Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake, and Mussoorie and Chamba nearby, perhaps extended toward Rishikesh and the Ganga. Spreading these across several days turns a lone camping weekend into a fuller, varied trip through the temples, lakes, forests and hill towns of Garhwal, one of the gentler and greener corners of Uttarakhand.
Choose your base by your taste: a forest camp or luxury tent for the classic Kanatal experience of bonfires and pines, or a resort, cottage or homestay for warmth and comfort, especially with young children or in the cold months. Either way, give Kanatal about two to four unhurried days to camp, walk the Kodia forest and take easy day trips to Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake, and weave it into a wider Garhwal trip with Dhanaulti and Mussoorie.
A gentle guide to the cost of a Kanatal trip
The journey, the camp or resort, and a hired vehicle for the day trips are the main costs; Kanatal is fairly affordable, and it helps to carry cash.
- Getting there and aroundThe main costs of a Kanatal trip are usually the journey, an overnight train or bus to Dehradun or Rishikesh and a hill drive, or a flight to Dehradun and a transfer, plus a hired vehicle for the day trips to Surkanda Devi, Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti. The train or bus is very affordable, and a private car adds comfort and freedom, especially for families. It is the travel and the local transport that largely set the budget for most trips.
- Camps and resorts to suit the budgetSleeping in Kanatal suits a range of budgets, from simple adventure camps to comfortable luxury tents and resorts, often sold as packages with meals and activities included, which can be good value. Choose the level of comfort and the package that suits your group. The camps and resorts, more than food or sightseeing, are usually the main cost of a Kanatal stay, so pick one that matches your budget and book ahead for the busy weekends.
- Activities and day tripsMany camps include easy activities such as rappelling, ziplining and bonfires in their packages, while the Tehri Lake water sports, the Surkanda Devi ropeway and any extra excursions are paid separately, usually per activity. Budget a little for the day trips and any water sports if you want them, and agree prices before you start. These add fun to a stay but need not be costly, and much of Kanatal's pleasure, the forest and the camp, is simply relaxing.
- Carry cashCash machines are limited to the larger towns such as Chamba and can be unreliable, and the camps, local transport and small eateries are often cash matters, so carry enough cash from Dehradun or a larger town for the trip, as mobile payment can fail where the signal is weak. Draw it before you head up the hills. As so often in the mountains, a little cash in hand saves trouble far from a working bank up on the ridge.
Practical tips: the roads, the retreat and the temple
A few facts help: check the season and roads, come to relax rather than sightsee, respect Surkanda Devi, and carry cash and warm gear.
- Check the season and the roadsPlan around the season: the pleasant months of about March to June and the clear autumn are best, winter brings cold and snow that can affect the hill roads from Mussoorie and Chamba, and the monsoon brings landslide risk on the Garhwal roads. Check the road and weather conditions before you set out, especially in snow or heavy rain, keep your plans flexible, and travel the hill roads by day with a careful driver for a smooth and safe trip.
- Come to relax, not to tick off sightsKanatal is a quiet forest retreat, not a town of monuments, so come with the right expectations: the pleasure is in camping, walking in the woods, and a couple of easy day trips, not in a packed sightseeing schedule. Plan a relaxed few days, choose a camp or resort you like, and add Surkanda Devi and Tehri Lake as gentle excursions. Come to unwind in the green hills, and Kanatal is a delight rather than a puzzle.
- Respect Surkanda DeviIf you visit the Surkanda Devi temple, treat it as the sacred Shakti Peeth it is: climb quietly and respectfully, dress modestly, remove your shoes at the shrine and follow local custom, and take the steep ascent or the ropeway at a sensible pace at altitude. It is a genuine pilgrimage site, revered by many, so behave with reverence rather than treating it as just a viewpoint, and the visit is all the more rewarding for the respect you bring.
- Carry cash, warm gear and essentialsCome prepared for a cool hill retreat: carry enough cash from a larger town, warm layers even in summer for the cold nights, any personal medicines, and good shoes for the forest walks and the Surkanda climb, and download maps and details in advance, as signal can be patchy on the ridge. A little preparation on cash, warmth and footwear makes a Kanatal stay smooth and comfortable, far from the shops and services of a town.
Kanatal is a quiet forest retreat, loveliest on weekdays and off peak; on busy weekends and holidays the camps fill and the popular spots get crowded, so book ahead and, if you can, come midweek for the real calm. Come to relax, camp and walk rather than to sightsee, respect the sacred Surkanda Devi temple, check the roads in snow or rain, and carry cash and warm gear. Come with the right expectations, and Kanatal is a gentle green escape.
Safety at Kanatal and in the Garhwal hills
Kanatal is a safe, gentle place; the cares are the hill roads, the camp activities, the cold, and the ordinary care.
- Mind the hill roadsThe Garhwal hill roads to and around Kanatal are winding and, in snow or monsoon, can be slippery or affected by landslides, so travel by day with a careful driver and keep a little buffer in your plans. The drives to Surkanda Devi, Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti are lovely but should not be rushed. Check conditions in winter and heavy rain before setting out, and with a good driver and sensible timing the roads are safe as well as scenic.
- Take care with camp activitiesThe adventure activities at the camps, rappelling, ziplining, water sports at Tehri Lake, are generally safe but run by operators of varying standard, so choose reputable camps, check that harnesses and equipment look sound, and follow the instructions, keeping a close eye on children. Do not feel pressured into an activity you are unsure of. Sensible care over which operator and which activity keeps the fun of Kanatal safe as well as enjoyable for the whole family.
- Prepare for the cold and the climbEven in summer the nights on the ridge are cold, and in winter bitterly so, so carry warm layers and good gear, especially if you camp. The climb to Surkanda Devi is steep and at altitude, so take it at an easy pace, carry water, and rest as needed, and use the ropeway if the walk is too much. Coming prepared for the cold and the climb, rather than expecting town comforts and easy paths, keeps a Kanatal trip comfortable and safe.
- The ordinary careBeyond the roads, the activities and the cold, Kanatal is a safe, quiet and welcoming place, popular with families and easy for first-time hill travellers. Keep an eye on your belongings in camps and on buses, carry personal medicines, and tell someone your plans. Solo travellers, including women, generally find the area safe with normal precautions. With simple hill sense about the roads, the activities and the weather, Kanatal is a relaxed and rewarding green escape.
Kanatal for every kind of traveller
Kanatal suits families, couples, campers and pilgrims, with a little care over the season, the roads and the quiet retreat nature of the place.
- Families and weekendersKanatal is a fine family and weekend getaway, a safe, green forest retreat with camps, easy activities, gentle walks and day trips to Tehri Lake and Surkanda Devi, close enough to Delhi for a short break. Children love the camps and bonfires and the boating on Tehri Lake. Choose a comfortable camp or resort, keep the pace relaxed, and it is an easy, happy trip for families wanting the hills without a long or hard journey.
- Couples and honeymoonersFor couples, Kanatal is a soft, romantic escape, quiet forest camps and resorts, bonfires under the stars, misty mornings and easy walks in the Kodia woods, away from the bustle of Mussoorie. Add the sunrise views from Surkanda Devi and a boat on Tehri Lake, and you have a gentle, scenic couple of days. It is a relaxed, unhurried destination rather than a busy tourist town, ideal for a peaceful romantic getaway in the Garhwal hills.
- Campers and adventure seekersFor campers and the mildly adventurous, Kanatal is a favourite, with its forest camps, bonfires, rappelling, ziplining and the water sports of Tehri Lake, all in an easy, family friendly key rather than hardcore adventure. Come for a weekend of camping and gentle thrills in the pines, and use it as a base for the Surkanda climb and the lake. For accessible outdoor fun close to Delhi, Kanatal is one of the most popular spots in Garhwal.
- Pilgrims and nature loversFor pilgrims, the sacred Surkanda Devi Shakti Peeth above Kanatal is a genuine and rewarding destination, a holy shrine with a magnificent Himalayan view. For nature lovers, the Kodia forest, the apple orchards and the quiet ridge offer walks, birds and clean mountain air. Both find in Kanatal a peaceful base close to faith and forest alike, far from the crowds, a gentle green corner of Garhwal that rewards a slow, respectful and unhurried visit.
A suggested Garhwal plan around Kanatal
A graded plan: Kanatal, Surkanda Devi, Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti over about three to four days, an easy Garhwal loop.
- Day 1: arrive and settle into campArrive at Kanatal, likely after an overnight train or bus to Dehradun or Rishikesh and a hill drive up, or a flight to Dehradun, and settle into your forest camp or resort. Give the first day to resting after the journey, a gentle walk in the Kodia woods, and a bonfire under the stars in the evening. This easy start lets the quiet of the ridge take over and sets up the excursions of the days to come.
- Day 2: Surkanda Devi and the ridgeGive the second morning to the sacred Surkanda Devi temple, driving to Kaddukhal and climbing the steep 2.5 km, or taking the ropeway, up to the Shakti Peeth for the shrine and the sweeping Himalayan views, best in the clear morning air. Spend the afternoon relaxing at camp, walking the forest, or trying a camp activity or two. It is a rewarding day of pilgrimage, panorama and easy ridge pleasures, with no long or hard travel.
- Day 3: Tehri Lake and DhanaultiOn the third day, take a trip to the great Tehri Lake for the views, boating and water sports on the huge reservoir behind the dam, a striking contrast to the forest, and stop at nearby Dhanaulti for its deodar forests and eco parks on the way back. It is a full, varied day of water, dam and woodland. Return to your Kanatal camp in the evening for a last night by the fire under the stars.
- Day 4: relax or travel onGive a final morning to a relaxed walk, a slow breakfast and the forest, before beginning the journey back down to Dehradun and the plains, or continuing to Mussoorie or Rishikesh to extend the trip. Over about three to four days, this easy Garhwal loop, Kanatal, Surkanda Devi, Tehri Lake and Dhanaulti, gives the best of the region, forest, temple, lake and hill town, without rushing, a gentle and green Uttarakhand break.
The real questions travellers ask about Kanatal
Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a Kanatal trip.
- How do I get there, and when to go?Reach Kanatal by road on the Chamba-Mussoorie route, about 78 km from Dehradun, 38 km from Mussoorie and roughly 300 km from Delhi, by overnight train or bus to Dehradun or Rishikesh and a hill drive, or a flight to Dehradun. The best time is about March to June and the clear autumn; winter brings cold and snow, and the monsoon brings landslide risk. Travel the hill roads by day, and come to relax rather than to rush around sightseeing.
- What is there to do, and is it for camping?Kanatal is above all a forest camping and relaxing retreat, with bonfires, easy adventure activities, and gentle walks in the Kodia woods, plus day trips to the sacred Surkanda Devi temple and the great Tehri Lake with its boating. It is a quiet retreat rather than a sightseeing town, so come to camp, walk and unwind with a couple of excursions. For an accessible camping and forest weekend near Mussoorie, it is one of the best in Garhwal.
- What is Surkanda Devi, and can I see Tehri Lake?Surkanda Devi, above Kanatal at Kaddukhal, is a sacred Shakti Peeth at about 2,750 metres where by legend the head of the goddess Sati fell, reached by a steep 2.5 km climb or a ropeway, with magnificent Himalayan views. The great Tehri Lake, the reservoir of one of the country's tallest dams, is an easy day trip from Kanatal for the views and water sports. Both are highlights of a Kanatal stay, one sacred, one scenic and watery.
- Is Kanatal good for families, and can I see snow?Kanatal is an excellent family and weekend retreat, safe and green, with camps, easy activities and gentle day trips, close to Delhi. In winter, about December to February, the ridge can receive snow, a real draw, though snow can affect the roads, so check conditions and come prepared for the cold. For green forest and easy activities choose spring or autumn; for snow, come in deep winter with warm gear and a flexible plan.
Planning Kanatal from abroad
For overseas visitors, Kanatal is a gentle, green Garhwal forest retreat reached through Delhi and Dehradun, easy and family friendly.
- Route in through Delhi and DehradunFrom abroad, fly into Delhi and continue to Dehradun by a short domestic flight, train or road, then drive up into the hills to Kanatal. No permit is needed. Allow a comfortable few days for the hill drives and the retreat, rather than rushing. Delhi and Dehradun are the natural gateways, and the drive up through the Garhwal forests to the quiet ridge of Kanatal is a gentle and beautiful introduction to the Uttarakhand hills for a visitor from abroad.
- An easy, restful hill retreatFor an overseas visitor, especially a family, Kanatal offers an easy, green and undemanding taste of the Indian Himalayas, forest camps, gentle walks, a sacred temple and a great lake, without high altitude or hard travel. It is a soft, restful destination, ideal for relaxed time with parents and children close to nature. Paired with Dhanaulti, Mussoorie and Rishikesh, it makes a lovely, low-effort Himalayan break well suited to visitors from abroad.
- Come in the pleasant seasonTime an overseas trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon landslides and, unless you specifically want the snow, the coldest depths of winter. Carry warm layers for the cold nights on the ridge and good shoes for the forest walks and the Surkanda climb. A little planning around the season and the roads makes for a smooth and rewarding Garhwal trip from abroad.
- Combine faith, forest and lakeAdvise your family to see Kanatal not just as a camp but as a base for the region: the sacred Surkanda Devi Shakti Peeth, the great Tehri Lake and dam, the Kodia forest and nearby Dhanaulti, for a fuller picture of Garhwal. This gentle mix of faith, forest and lake, easy for all ages, rewards an unhurried few days far more than a single night's camp, and shows overseas visitors a soft, lovely and accessible side of the Himalayas.
Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors
Carry cash, expect patchy signal on the ridge, time the trip for the pleasant seasons, and book the camp and transport in advance.
- Carry cash from the plainsDraw plenty of Indian rupees in cash in Delhi or Dehradun before heading up to Kanatal, as cash machines are limited to the larger towns and can be unreliable, and the camps, local transport and small eateries are often cash matters. For a visitor from abroad who cannot easily solve a money problem up in the hills, arriving with enough cash for the trip is simply sensible and saves any awkwardness on the ridge, far from a working bank.
- Expect patchy signalMobile coverage is reasonable in the towns but can be patchy on the ridge and in the forest, and foreign SIMs may not work well, so download maps and details in advance, get an Indian prepaid SIM if you can, and tell family you may be briefly out of touch. Treat the occasional lack of signal as part of the forest calm. Do not rely on a strong connection at the camp or on the trails, and plan your logistics in advance.
- Time it wellPlan the trip for the pleasant months of about March to June or the clear autumn, avoiding the peak monsoon, when landslides can affect the roads, and, unless you want snow, the coldest depths of winter. This is both the loveliest and the easiest window for the ridge and the day trips. Build a little buffer for the winding hill roads and the weather, and keep the days unhurried after a long journey from abroad.
- Book the camp and transportFor an overseas visitor, it helps to book a good camp or resort and arrange reliable transport, a car and driver for the hill roads and day trips, in advance, especially for weekends and the busy seasons when the popular camps fill. This takes the worry out of the logistics and ensures a comfortable base and easy excursions. With the camp and transport arranged and the season well chosen, a Kanatal trip is easy and rewarding from abroad.
Pines, a bonfire, and a goddess on the summit
On the high forested ridge that runs between the old hill station of Mussoorie and the town of Chamba, in the Garhwal hills of Uttarakhand, lies a quiet village whose name, Kanatal, means lake, though there is no lake here now; by local tradition a lake once filled this hollow long ago, and drained away, leaving only the name and the memory. What Kanatal has instead is forest, pine and deodar and oak, apple orchards on the slopes, cool clean mountain air, and a deep, restful quiet, and it is for these that people come, to pitch a tent or take a cabin among the trees, to sit by a bonfire under a sky thick with stars, and to slow down after the noise of the plains. But the ridge holds more than rest. Climb the steep path above the road at Kaddukhal, or ride the ropeway, and you come to the summit temple of Surkanda Devi, one of the sacred Shakti Peeths of the goddess, where by the old legend the head of Sati fell to earth, and from which, on a clear morning, the whole white wall of the Himalaya stands revealed across the valleys. And not far off, held back by one of the tallest dams in the land, the great blue Tehri Lake winds among the hills where a town and its valley once stood. So Kanatal, small and quiet as it is, sits at the meeting of forest and faith and water, a gentle green retreat with a goddess on the summit above it and a vast lake shining in the hills beyond, and it asks of the traveller only that they slow down, look up, and rest a while among the pines.
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