Mayapur
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Mayapur

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Mayapur Travel Guide

The kind season is the cool, dry winter, about October to March ; the Bengal summer is hot and humid, and Gaura Purnima, around February or March, brings huge crowds.

NABADWIPISKCONCHAITANYA MAHAPRABHUUPDATED JUN 2026
01When to go

The best time to visit Mayapur

The kind season is the cool, dry winter, about October to March; the Bengal summer is hot and humid, and Gaura Purnima, around February or March, brings huge crowds.

  • Winter, about October to March, is bestThe kindest time to visit Mayapur is the cool, dry winter, roughly October to March. The days are mild and the riverside air is pleasant. You can walk the temple grounds and cross the Ganges in comfort. Mornings are cool and lovely for the early worship. For most travellers, and for families and older pilgrims, this is your clear window. Plan your trip for these months, and the whole visit is easier and more peaceful.
  • Summer, about April to June, is very hotMayapur sits on the plains of Bengal, and from about April to June it turns very hot and humid. Afternoon temperatures often climb into the high thirties or low forties Celsius. If you must come then, move about in the early morning and the evening. Rest in the shade at midday, and drink plenty of water; the temple and the riverside are still open. But the heat is real, so pace yourself and cover your head.
  • The monsoon, about July to September, is green and wetThe monsoon, about July to September, greens the fields and swells the Ganges. It is atmospheric by the river. But it brings heavy rain and humidity, and paths can turn muddy. Boats can be affected by the high water. If you do not mind the damp, the season has its beauty. Just carry rain protection, keep your plans flexible around the showers, and take care near the swollen river.
  • Time it around Gaura Purnima with careThe great festival is Gaura Purnima, in spring, around February or March, the appearance day of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. It is a moving time, with huge crowds and a seven-day parikrama around Nabadwip. But it is very crowded, and rooms fill months ahead; if you want the full festival spirit, come then, but book early. If you want a calm, easy darshan, choose an ordinary winter week instead.
Cool winter days are kindest

Mayapur is loveliest on a cool, dry winter day, about October to March, when the temple grounds and the river are a pleasure. The Bengal summer, about April to June, is hot and humid, so move early and carry water if you visit then. The monsoon is green but wet. Gaura Purnima, around February or March, is deeply moving but very crowded, so book far ahead or pick an ordinary winter week for a calm, unhurried visit.

02Getting there

How to reach Mayapur, by road, rail and river

Reach Mayapur from Kolkata, about 130 km to the south, by road; the nearest railway is Nabadwip Dham and you can cross the Ganges by ferry from Navadwip.

By road from Kolkata, the usual way

Most travellers reach Mayapur by road from Kolkata, about 130 km to the south, a drive of roughly three to four hours. You can hire a car or taxi, join a tour, or take a bus toward Nabadwip or Krishnanagar. For a family or a group, a car hired for the trip is the easiest way; it lets you reach the riverside complex directly, and move around the temples and the ghats at your own pace.

By air to Kolkata

Your nearest airport is Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport at Kolkata, about 120 km away, well connected across India and abroad. From the airport it is a road journey of roughly three to four hours to Mayapur. Most visitors, from within India or overseas, fly into Kolkata, then continue by car or taxi. Pre-book a car for the drive, especially if you land late. Then you reach the temple town in good time.

By train, then a short road hop

The nearest railway station is Nabadwip Dham, about 30 km from Mayapur, with regular trains from Howrah in Kolkata. The nearest bus stand is at Krishnanagar, about 20 km away. From either you reach Mayapur by taxi or auto in well under an hour. Take the train to Nabadwip Dham or the bus to Krishnanagar, then a short road hop, and you arrive at the riverside without a long journey.

The ferry across the Ganges

Mayapur sits about 12 km from the old town of Navadwip, across the Ganges. Many pilgrims cross the river by ferry between the two. It is a short, pleasant crossing, and a lovely way to arrive at the temple town. If you are staying in or visiting Nabadwip, ask about the ferry. Let the wide, holy river carry you across to Mayapur.

Kolkata is the gateway, then road

The simple plan is to reach Kolkata, about 130 km away and the nearest airport and rail hub, then travel on by road. Fly or take a train to Kolkata, then hire a car for the roughly three to four hour drive to Mayapur. Or take a train to Nabadwip Dham, about 30 km off, and a short taxi hop. You can also cross the Ganges by ferry from Navadwip, a lovely way to reach the riverside temple town.

03What to see

The great temples, the Ganges and the Goshala

The heart of Mayapur is the Chandrodaya Mandir and the rising Temple of the Vedic Planetarium, with the Yogapith, Prabhupada's Samadhi, the Goshala and the Ganges.

  • The Chandrodaya Mandir and its deitiesThe heart of Mayapur is the Sri Mayapur Chandrodaya Mandir, the main ISKCON temple. Inside are the deities of Sri Sri Radha-Madhava, with eight sakhis, and the Pancha-tattva. Kirtan and worship run through the day, and the hall fills with chanting and colour; you can sit quietly, watch the arati, and take in the devotion all around you. It is a living temple first, so move gently and with respect.
  • The Temple of the Vedic PlanetariumBeside the main temple rises the Temple of the Vedic Planetarium, a vast domed temple under construction since 2009. When finished, it will be one of the largest temples in the world, and its opening is set for 2027. So on a visit in 2026 you see it nearing completion, already huge against the sky; even now, the scale of it is a sight in itself, and worth the walk across the grounds.
  • The Yogapith and Prabhupada's SamadhiThe Yogapith, the birthplace shrine of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, stands a little apart, developed from the 1880s by Bhaktivinoda Thakur. In the main complex you will find the Samadhi Mandir of Srila Prabhupada, the ISKCON founder, a large domed shrine. His Pushpa Samadhi, his rooms and his bhajan kutir stand nearby. Together they hold the human and spiritual story of Mayapur, and reward an unhurried, respectful visit.
  • The Goshala, the Ganga and the groundsAround the temples are gardens, the wide Ganges, and a large Goshala, or cow sanctuary, where you can take a bullock-cart ride. There is a Ganga temple by the river, a full-dome theatre, and the samadhis of Vaishnava teachers. Take your time on the grounds. Walk down to the river, watch the boats, and let the calm of the place settle on you, beyond the main halls.
A living temple, so visit with respect

Mayapur is a working place of worship and pilgrimage, so treat it with real respect. Dress modestly, remove your shoes where asked, keep quiet during arati, and follow the temple guidelines. Ask before photographing people or the inside of shrines. Keep the grounds and the river clean, and carry your rubbish out. Treated with that care, Mayapur gives you a calm, moving day of devotion, music and quiet beauty by the Ganges.

04Things to do

The arati, the Ganges and the parikrama

The signature Mayapur experiences are the early mangala arati and kirtan, a walk to the Ganges, the Goshala, and the Nabadwip Parikrama in season.

  • Sit for the arati and the kirtanThe signature experience of Mayapur is the worship itself. Come for an arati, above all the early mangala arati, around 4:30 in the morning, when the temple wakes with lamps and chanting. Sit on the floor of the great hall. Let the kirtan wash over you, drums and voices rising together. You do not need to be a devotee to feel it; this is the living heart of Mayapur, and the thing you will remember most.
  • Walk down to the GangesMayapur stands where the Jalangi meets the Ganges, and the river is part of the experience. Walk down to the ghats in the cool of morning or evening. Watch the pilgrims bathe and pray, and the boats drift by; you can take a short boat ride, or simply sit on the bank. The wide, holy river, with the temple domes behind you, is one of the calmest and loveliest parts of a visit.
  • See the Goshala and take a cart rideFor a gentle hour, visit the large Goshala, the cow sanctuary, cared for as sacred. You can take a bullock-cart ride around the grounds, a slow, easy pleasure that children enjoy. The gardens, the cows and the open fields show the quieter, rural side of Mayapur. It is a good balance to the busy temple halls, and a calm way to spend part of your afternoon by the river.
  • Join the Nabadwip Parikrama in seasonIf you come around Gaura Purnima, in February or March, you can join the seven-day Nabadwip Parikrama. Pilgrims walk in great groups, with kirtan, to circle the places of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu's life across the river country. It is a moving, powerful thing to see and to share. If you are up for the walking and the crowds, it is the deepest way to experience Mayapur and Nabadwip together.
Come for the mangala arati at least once

The one thing not to miss at Mayapur is an arati in the great temple hall, above all the early mangala arati, around 4:30 in the morning. Rise in the dark, sit on the floor, and let the lamps, drums and chanting fill the hall. Whether or not you follow the faith, it is a moving start to the day. Add a walk to the Ganges at dawn, and you have the true heart of Mayapur.

05Base and days

Where to stay, and how long to give it

Stay in the ISKCON guesthouses inside the complex, or in lodges nearby, and give Mayapur a night and a day or two.

  • Stay in the ISKCON guesthousesMayapur is set up for pilgrims, and the easiest place to stay is right in the ISKCON complex. There are several guesthouses, from simple rooms to more comfortable ones, within walking distance of the temples. Staying inside lets you reach the early morning arati easily, and feel the rhythm of the place; book ahead, especially in the winter season and around festivals, as the rooms fill fast.
  • Simple lodges and hotels nearbyBeyond the complex, there are simple lodges and hotels around Mayapur and across the river in Nabadwip. These suit travellers who want a little more independence, or who cannot get an ISKCON room in a busy season. They range from basic to reasonably comfortable. If you want the full devotional experience, stay inside the complex. If you want more choice, look to the lodges and hotels nearby.
  • Give it a day or twoYou can see the main temples of Mayapur in a full day. But to catch the early arati, walk the grounds unhurried, cross to Nabadwip, and feel the calm of the river, give it a night and a day or two. A single night lets you rise for the mangala arati, which is worth the stay. For most travellers, a day or two, with a night in the complex, is the rewarding measure.
  • Pair it with Nabadwip and KolkataPlan Mayapur within a wider Bengal trip. Across the river lies the old temple town of Nabadwip, rich in its own shrines and history, an easy pairing by ferry. Kolkata, about 130 km away, adds the great city, its sights and its food. Weaving the two riverside towns and the city together turns a single temple visit into a fuller Bengal journey, of faith, river life and culture.
Sleep in the complex, rise for the arati

The travellers who enjoy Mayapur most stay right in the ISKCON complex, in one of its guesthouses, and rise for the early mangala arati. Book well ahead in winter and around festivals, as rooms go fast. Give the visit a night and a day or two, to catch the dawn worship, walk the grounds and cross to Nabadwip. And pair Mayapur with Nabadwip across the river and with Kolkata for a fuller Bengal trip.

06What it costs

A gentle guide to the cost of a Mayapur trip

Mayapur is easy on the budget; the temples are free, and the main costs are the travel from Kolkata, the room and simple food, so carry some cash.

  • The temples are free to enterOne of the joys of Mayapur is that the heart of the visit costs nothing. The temples are free to enter, and the arati, the kirtan and the darshan are open to all. You may choose to give a donation, and prasad, the blessed food, is served, sometimes free and sometimes for a small charge; so the devotional core of your visit, the worship and the temples, asks nothing, which makes Mayapur gentle on any budget.
  • The travel is the main costThe main cost of a Mayapur trip is usually the travel, the car or taxi from Kolkata for the roughly 130 km, or the train and a short hop. Shared with a family or group, a hired car is very reasonable per head, and it buys real comfort and freedom. A train to Nabadwip Dham and a taxi is cheaper still. It is the getting there, more than anything at Mayapur, that shapes your budget.
  • Rooms, food and small extrasBudget for your room, whether an ISKCON guesthouse or a nearby lodge, and for meals, which are simple and inexpensive around the complex. Prasad and the temple canteens serve good, cheap vegetarian food. Small extras, a bullock-cart ride, a boat on the Ganges, a few donations, cost little. Overall, Mayapur is an easy, affordable trip, with the room and the travel the main things to plan for.
  • Carry some cashCarry enough cash for your room, food, donations and small rides. The complex and the town have some card and digital payment, but not everywhere, and the signal can be patchy. Draw cash in Kolkata or a larger town before you come. As at most pilgrimage towns, a little cash in hand, for the canteen, the cart ride and the small stalls, keeps your visit smooth and easy.
07Good to know

Practical tips: dress, timings and the early arati

A few facts help a lot: dress modestly, rise early for the arati, eat the prasad, drink safe water, and reconfirm the timings and festival dates.

  • Dress modestly and follow the temple rulesMayapur is a place of worship, so dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, for the temples. Remove your shoes where asked, keep quiet during arati, and follow the guidelines posted around the complex. Ask before you photograph people or the inside of shrines. A little care and respect go a long way here, and let you share in the devotion without causing offence.
  • Rise early for the best of the dayThe temple day begins very early, with mangala arati around 4:30 in the morning, and runs until about 8:30 at night. The early hours are the most beautiful and the least crowded. So rise early at least once, for the dawn worship and the cool of the morning. Plan your day around the arati times, rest in the heat of the afternoon, and return for the evening worship.
  • Eat the prasad and mind the foodMayapur is a vegetarian place, and the temple canteens and prasad halls serve simple, wholesome food. Eat the prasad, the blessed meal, as part of the experience. Drink bottled or filtered water, as you would anywhere in the region, and ease into the local food if your stomach is sensitive. The food is a gentle, nourishing part of the visit, and a good reason to eat where the pilgrims eat.
  • Reconfirm timings and festival datesArati times, prasad hours and the exact dates of festivals like Gaura Purnima can change from year to year, so reconfirm them before you travel or on arrival. If you are coming for a festival, book your room months ahead. Check the current temple guidelines too. A little planning, around the timings, the festival dates and the rooms, makes for a smooth and rewarding Mayapur visit.
Dress modestly, rise early, book ahead

A few things make a Mayapur visit easy. Dress modestly and follow the temple rules, removing your shoes where asked. Rise early at least once for the mangala arati, around 4:30 in the morning, the loveliest part of the day. Eat the simple prasad, and drink safe water. And reconfirm the timings and festival dates, booking your room months ahead if you come for Gaura Purnima, so your visit is calm and unhurried.

08Stay safe

Safety and health at Mayapur

Mayapur is safe and welcoming; the real cares are the Ganges, the heat and ordinary care of your things, food and water.

  • Mayapur is safe and welcomingMayapur is a calm, welcoming pilgrimage town, and most visits pass without any trouble. As anywhere, keep an eye on your belongings in the busy halls and at festival times, and take the usual care of your phone, money and documents. The people are friendly and used to visitors from all over the world. With ordinary common sense, you can relax and enjoy the devotion and the river in safety.
  • Take care by the GangesThe Ganges at Mayapur is wide and holy, and part of the visit is the river. But it is a real, deep river, so take care at the ghats and on any boat. Do not swim out of your depth. Keep children close to you at the water, and wear the life jacket on a boat ride. The bathing ghats can be slippery. A little caution by the river keeps the loveliest part of Mayapur safe.
  • Guard against the heatThe Bengal heat, from about April to June, is the main health risk, with high humidity and temperatures often in the high thirties or low forties Celsius. Drink plenty of water, wear a hat, and rest in the shade through the midday hours. Move about in the cool of the early morning and the evening. Sunstroke and dehydration are real in the hot months, so pace yourself and do not overdo the walking.
  • Ordinary care and your medicinesTake the usual care with food and water, eating the fresh temple prasad and drinking safe bottled or filtered water. Carry any personal medicines you need, as the town is small and a pharmacy may not have everything. Larger hospitals are in Krishnanagar and Kolkata. With sensible care over the heat, the river, the food and your things, Mayapur is a safe, gentle and deeply rewarding place to visit.
09Who it suits

Mayapur for every kind of traveller

Mayapur suits pilgrims, families, first-time visitors and photographers, with the early arati, the temples, the Goshala and the Ganges.

  • Pilgrims and spiritual seekersFor pilgrims and spiritual seekers, Mayapur is a deeply moving place, the birthplace of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and the world headquarters of ISKCON. You can sit for the arati, join the kirtan, walk to the Ganges, and feel the devotion that draws over a million visitors a year. Whether you follow Gaudiya Vaishnavism or simply love a holy place, Mayapur rewards you with a rare depth of faith and music.
  • Families and older travellersFor families, Mayapur is gentle and rewarding, with the temples, the Goshala, the bullock-cart rides and the river to enjoy, and simple, wholesome food. For older travellers and pilgrims, the complex is fairly easy to move around, though the early arati means a very early start. Keep children close by the river and in the busy halls. With that care, Mayapur suits families and older pilgrims well.
  • First-time and curious visitorsIf you are new to Mayapur, or simply curious, do not worry that you must be a devotee. The temple welcomes visitors from all over the world, and you can watch the arati, walk the grounds, and take in the river at your own pace. Dress modestly and move with respect. Come with an open mind, and you will find Mayapur a calm, colourful and moving window into a living tradition.
  • Photographers and river loversFor photographers, Mayapur offers the great temple domes, the colour of the arati, the pilgrims at the ghats, the cows and carts of the Goshala, and the wide Ganges in the soft light of morning and evening. Ask before you photograph people or inside the shrines. If you love rivers, Mayapur, set where the Jalangi meets the Ganges, is a calm and beautiful place to spend a slow day with a camera.
10A simple plan

A suggested plan for Mayapur

A simple plan: arrive and settle, rise for the mangala arati, add the Goshala, a boat and Nabadwip, within a wider Bengal trip.

  • Arrive and settle by the riverReach Mayapur by road from Kolkata, or by train to Nabadwip Dham and a short hop, and settle into your room, ideally in the ISKCON complex. Spend your first evening gently. Walk the grounds, see the main temple, and go down to the Ganges for the sunset. Get your bearings, find the arati times, and rest early, so you can rise for the dawn worship the next morning.
  • Rise for the mangala aratiOn your full day, rise in the dark for the mangala arati, around 4:30 in the morning, the heart of a Mayapur visit. Sit in the great hall for the lamps, drums and chanting. Afterwards, walk to the river in the cool dawn. Take breakfast prasad, then see the Chandrodaya Mandir, the Temple of the Vedic Planetarium, the Samadhi of Srila Prabhupada and the Yogapith at an unhurried pace.
  • Add the Goshala, a boat and NabadwipThrough the day, add the gentler pleasures. Visit the Goshala and take a bullock-cart ride, and take a short boat on the Ganges if you like. If you have time, cross the river by ferry to the old temple town of Nabadwip, rich in its own shrines. These round out your visit with the rural, riverine and historic sides of the Mayapur and Nabadwip country.
  • Fit it into a Bengal tripWeave Mayapur into a wider Bengal journey. Pair it with Nabadwip across the river, and with Kolkata, about 130 km away, for the great city, its sights and its food. Over a night or two at Mayapur, plus Nabadwip and Kolkata, you build a rich Bengal trip, of faith, river life and culture, with the temple town and the Ganges its calm, moving heart.
11Real questions

The real questions travellers ask about Mayapur

Short, honest answers to the questions that come up again and again before a Mayapur trip.

  • When should I visit, and what about Gaura Purnima?The best time is the cool, dry winter, roughly October to March, when the temple grounds and the river are pleasant. The summer, about April to June, is hot and humid. The great festival is Gaura Purnima, around February or March, the appearance day of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, with huge crowds and a seven-day Nabadwip Parikrama. Come then for the full spirit, but book months ahead, or choose an ordinary winter week for a calm visit.
  • How do I reach Mayapur?Mayapur is about 130 km north of Kolkata, roughly three to four hours by road. The nearest airport is Kolkata, about 120 km away. The nearest railway station is Nabadwip Dham, about 30 km off, with regular trains from Howrah, and the nearest bus stand is at Krishnanagar, about 20 km away. From either, a taxi or auto brings you in under an hour. You can also cross the Ganges by ferry from Navadwip.
  • Where do I stay, and can non-devotees visit?The easiest place to stay is inside the ISKCON complex, in one of its guesthouses, with simple lodges and hotels nearby and across the river. Book ahead in winter and around festivals. And yes, non-devotees are very welcome. You do not need to follow the faith to watch the arati, walk the grounds and take in the river. Just dress modestly and move with respect, and you will feel at home.
  • What are the temple timings, and is there an entry fee?The temple day begins very early, with mangala arati around 4:30 in the morning, and runs until about 8:30 at night, with worship and darshan through the day. The temples are free to enter, and the arati and kirtan are open to all. Prasad, the blessed food, is served, sometimes free and sometimes for a small charge. Reconfirm the current timings on arrival, as they can change through the year.
12For overseas visitors

Planning Mayapur from abroad

For overseas visitors, Mayapur is a welcoming ISKCON pilgrimage town reached through Kolkata, best in winter and paired with Kolkata and Nabadwip.

  • A welcome place for overseas visitorsFor overseas visitors, Mayapur is unusually welcoming, as the world headquarters of ISKCON, with pilgrims and guests from every country. English is widely spoken in the complex, and the guesthouses are used to international guests. You do not need to follow the faith to be welcome. Whether you come as a devotee or a curious traveller, you will find Mayapur an easy, warm and moving place to visit from abroad.
  • Route in through KolkataFrom abroad, fly into Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport at Kolkata, about 120 km away and well connected worldwide. Then reach Mayapur by road, roughly three to four hours, ideally in a pre-booked car. Kolkata is worth a day or two of your trip too. Allow for the drive and a night or two at Mayapur within a wider Bengal itinerary, and the journey is straightforward for an overseas visitor.
  • A deep window into a living traditionFor an overseas visitor, Mayapur offers a rare, close view of a living devotional tradition, the home of Gaudiya Vaishnavism and the birthplace of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. You can sit for the arati, hear the kirtan, walk to the Ganges, and see the great Temple of the Vedic Planetarium rising. Combined with Kolkata and old Nabadwip, it makes a rich, meaningful Bengal trip, well worth building into your India journey.
  • Come prepared and with respectOverseas visitors should come prepared, with modest clothing for the temples, safe water habits, and any personal medicines. Book an ISKCON guesthouse well ahead, especially in winter and around festivals. Rise early at least once for the dawn arati, the highlight of a visit. Move about with respect, follow the temple guidelines, and Mayapur will reward you with one of the warmest and most moving experiences of your India trip.
13Money and connectivity

Money, connectivity and timing for overseas visitors

Carry cash and some cards, get an Indian SIM, plan a winter visit, and pair Mayapur with Kolkata and Nabadwip.

  • Carry cash and some cardsFor an overseas visitor, carry enough Indian rupees in cash for your room, meals, donations and small extras, as not every place at Mayapur takes cards, and the signal can be patchy. Draw cash at the Kolkata airport or in the city before you set out, and keep some cards as a backup. Cash in hand, for the canteen, the cart ride and the small stalls, is the smoothest way to handle the everyday.
  • Connectivity and an Indian SIMMobile coverage is generally decent at Mayapur, better than in remote hill or desert regions, but it can be patchy in places. A foreign SIM will roam expensively, so it is wise to get an Indian prepaid SIM in Kolkata for your trip. Download any maps and details in advance. With a local SIM and a little offline planning, you stay easily in touch through your Mayapur and Bengal journey.
  • Plan the season and book aheadFor an overseas visitor, time your trip for the cool, dry winter, roughly October to March, and avoid the hot, humid summer. If you want the great Gaura Purnima festival, around February or March, plan for the crowds and book your room months ahead. Sorting your season, your rooms and your travel well before you come is the key to a smooth, rewarding Mayapur trip from abroad.
  • Pair Mayapur with Kolkata and NabadwipFor an overseas visitor, Mayapur is best enjoyed within a wider Bengal trip. Pair it with the great city of Kolkata, about 130 km away, and with the old temple town of Nabadwip across the river. An operator or a well-planned self-guided route can weave the three together. Rather than a lone stop, treat Mayapur as the calm, spiritual heart of a fuller Bengal journey, of faith, river life and culture.
Where a saint was born by the Ganges

A river town of chanting, and the birthplace of Chaitanya

North of Kolkata, where the wide Ganges runs down through the green flat country of Bengal and meets the smaller Jalangi, there stands a low riverbank town that the world now knows as Mayapur. Here, in the year 1486, was born Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, the saint whom his followers hold to be Krishna himself come again, who set the whole of eastern India singing the names of God in the streets, and whose gentle, ecstatic devotion still moves millions. For centuries the exact spot of his birth was lost to the shifting river, until in 1894 the scholar and saint Bhaktivinoda Thakur marked this place as the true birthplace, and slowly the temples rose again. Today Mayapur is the home of a worldwide movement, the headquarters of ISKCON, and pilgrims come here by the million from every country on earth. Rise before dawn, when the sky is still dark, and sit on the cool floor of the great temple hall for the first worship of the day. The lamps are lit, the drums begin, and hundreds of voices rise together in the old chant, until the whole hall seems to lift on the sound. Walk out afterwards into the grey light and down to the river, where pilgrims stand waist deep in the holy water, and the boats slide by, and the huge new dome of the Temple of the Vedic Planetarium stands against the brightening sky. Whether or not you share the faith, there is something here that stays with you: the sense of a place given wholly over to devotion, on the bank of a river that India has held sacred since before memory, in the town where, they say, a barefoot saint once danced and wept for the love of God.

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