All Sacred Circuits

Shakti Peetha · Shakti

Mahakali (Ujjaini) Shakti Peetha

Ujjain is famous the world over for Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, but the ancient city is a seat of the Devi too. The Shakti Peetha of Ujjain is worshipped at the Harsiddhi Mata temple, just a few minutes' walk from Mahakal, where the tradition says the elbow of Sati fell. Give the Mother her hour when you come for the Lord, and your Ujjain yatra becomes whole.

The story of this place

The old lists of the Shakti Peethas name Ujjaini among the places made sacred by the body of Sati, and in the living tradition of Ujjain that peetha is the Harsiddhi Mata temple. The Shiva Purana mentions it, and the tradition says the elbow of Sati fell here when Lord Vishnu's Sudarshan Chakra divided her body. You may also hear the Devi of Ujjain remembered as Mahakali in some old peetha lists; in the city itself, it is Harsiddhi Mata whom devotees have worshipped as the Shakti of this kshetra for centuries, watching over Mahakal's city from beside the old palace quarter.

The legend most loved in Ujjain ties the temple to King Vikramaditya, the celebrated ruler of the city, who is said to have been a great devotee of Harsiddhi and to have built the temple in her honour. The name Harsiddhi itself is taken to mean the giver of siddhi, the Devi who grants accomplishment and victory, which is why generations of devotees have come to her before beginning anything difficult. The temple as you see it today carries the graceful mark of the Maratha period, when much of sacred Ujjain was renewed.

What you will see

The temple complex has four entrances facing the four directions, and inside, the sanctum holds the beautiful vermilion image of Goddess Harsiddhi. Beside her, devotees offer prayers to Goddess Annapurna, Goddess Mahalakshmi and Goddess Mahasaraswati, and a Sri Yantra is enshrined here, the great symbol of Shakti.

What you will remember most, though, are the two towering deepstambhas, the lamp pillars in the courtyard, set with 726 lamp holders between them. On festival evenings, and above all during Navratri, every lamp is lit, and the two pillars become columns of living flame against the night sky. Devotees stand in silence and watch. If your dates allow you even one such evening, take it; it is among the most beautiful sights in Madhya Pradesh.

Darshan, timings and temple etiquette

The temple generally stays open from about 5:00 in the morning to about 7:00 in the evening. The morning aarti is held around 7:00 to 8:00, and the evening aarti around 7:00, when the lamps are lit; timings shift with the season and festivals, so check the current schedule before you plan your evening.

Darshan on ordinary days is calm and rarely takes long, which is a gentle change after the queues of Mahakaleshwar. Dress modestly, leave footwear at the stands, and keep the sanctum moving on busy days. During Navratri the temple fills with devotees for the lamp lighting, so come early and keep patience in the courtyard press. During the Simhastha Kumbh, held in Ujjain every twelve years, the whole city including Harsiddhi sees enormous crowds; plan those dates with special care.

Best time to visit

October to March is the pleasant season in Ujjain, with cool evenings that make the lamp lighting even lovelier. Navratri, in both Chaitra and Ashwin, is the high point of the year at Harsiddhi, when the deepstambhas are lit and the courtyard overflows with devotion.

Summer from April to June is very hot in Malwa, so keep temple visits to early morning and evening. The monsoon months are workable and the city is quieter then.

How to reach

The nearest airport is Devi Ahilyabai Holkar Airport at Indore, about 55 km away, roughly an hour and a half by road. Ujjain Junction, the city's main railway station, is only about 2.5 km from the temple and is connected to Delhi, Mumbai and the major cities of central India.

Within the city, the temple stands about 600 metres from the Mahakaleshwar temple, a walk of five to ten minutes through the old bazaar. Most of our guests take Mahakal darshan first and then walk across to Harsiddhi, with the Shipra ghats close by for the evening.

Tips from our travel experts

Plan your Harsiddhi visit for the evening aarti if you can, when the lamps on the deepstambhas are lit. It is the signature experience of this temple and it costs you nothing but timing.

Pair the Devi's darshan with Mahakaleshwar on the same day, since they are minutes apart. If you wish to attend the famous early morning Bhasma aarti at Mahakaleshwar, tell us well in advance, as it requires prior arrangement. And if you have an extra day from Indore, the Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga can be added to make a two Jyotirlinga and one Shakti Peetha circuit, which our pilgrims love.

For our NRI and OCI travellers

Fly into Indore, which has good connections through Delhi and Mumbai, and Ujjain is a comfortable morning drive. Two nights in Ujjain give you Mahakaleshwar, Harsiddhi and the Shipra ghats without rush.

Many of our overseas guests time their visit to Navratri for the lamp lighting at Harsiddhi. If elders are travelling with you, the short distances in Ujjain make this one of the easiest pilgrim cities in India for a family yatra.

Questions travellers ask us

Is Harsiddhi the Shakti Peetha of Ujjain?

Yes. In the living tradition of Ujjain, and as recorded by Madhya Pradesh Tourism, the Harsiddhi Mata temple is worshipped as the Shakti Peetha of the city, where the tradition says the elbow of Sati fell. Some old peetha lists remember the Devi of Ujjaini as Mahakali, and both names point to this ancient seat of Shakti in Mahakal's city.

How far is Harsiddhi from Mahakaleshwar?

About 600 metres, a walk of five to ten minutes through the old bazaar. Almost every pilgrim pairs the two: Mahakal darshan first, then the Devi. Keep the evening for Harsiddhi if the lamps are being lit.

What are the deepstambhas of Harsiddhi?

Two towering lamp pillars in the temple courtyard, set with 726 lamp holders between them. On festival evenings, especially during Navratri, all the lamps are lit at once and the pillars glow like columns of flame. It is the most famous sight of this temple.

What are the temple timings?

Generally about 5:00 in the morning to about 7:00 in the evening, with morning aarti around 7:00 to 8:00 and evening aarti around 7:00. Timings shift with festivals and seasons, so check the current schedule, especially if you are coming for the lamp lighting.

When should I visit Ujjain?

October to March for comfortable weather, and Navratri for the lamp lighting at Harsiddhi if you can manage the crowds. Remember that during the Simhastha Kumbh, held every twelve years, the city is extraordinarily full and plans need extra care.

A note on the tours below. These packages travel close to Mahakali (Ujjaini) Shakti Peetha, but a package may not include a guided visit to the site itself. If you would like this place added to your journey, please tell your Way to India travel consultant and they will happily build it into your itinerary for you.

Yatras with the temple an easy day trip away

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore

About 52 km from your stay at Indore