Maratha Military Landscapes of India

The story of this place

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj understood one truth better than any ruler of his age: in the Sahyadri, the fort is the kingdom. Whoever held the gads held the land. So the Marathas built, adapted and expanded a network of forts between the late 17th and early 19th centuries, on hilltops, in forests, on plateaus, along the coast and on islands in the sea, and this living system of defence is what UNESCO has now recognised, under criteria that honour both its architecture and the traditions attached to it.

The twelve forts of the inscribed property are Salher, Shivneri, Lohgad, Khanderi, Raigad, Rajgad, Pratapgad, Suvarnadurg, Panhala, Vijaydurg and Sindhudurg in Maharashtra, and Gingee in Tamil Nadu. Each carries a chapter of the story. Shivneri is where Shivaji Maharaj was born. Rajgad was his first capital, and Raigad the capital where he was crowned Chhatrapati on 6 June 1674. At Pratapgad in 1659 he faced Afzal Khan, and near Salher in 1672 the Maratha army defeated a large Mughal force in open battle, a victory still told with pride.

The sea forts complete the vision. Sindhudurg, Vijaydurg, Suvarnadurg and Khanderi guarded the Konkan coast and the Maratha navy, for Maharaj knew that swarajya needed strength on water as much as on land.

What you will see

These are not palace museums; they are working fortresses shaped by the land itself. On the hill forts you will see massive gateways set at angles so that no elephant could charge them, bastions growing out of natural cliffs, rock cut water tanks that kept garrisons alive through sieges, and granaries, sadar buildings and temple ruins inside the walls.

At Raigad, the ropeway lifts you to the top, where you can stand at the site of the royal court, walk the old market street, and bow at the samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. At Shivneri, you climb through seven gateways to the small pavilion that marks the birthplace of Maharaj. Pratapgad rises out of thick forest near Mahabaleshwar with the Bhavani Mata temple inside. Panhala is a plateau fort so large that a town still lives within it.

On the coast, Sindhudurg rises straight out of the sea off Malvan, reached by boat, its walls built on rock in the water. Vijaydurg, Suvarnadurg and the island of Khanderi each guard their own stretch of the Konkan. And far to the south, Gingee in Tamil Nadu spreads across three hills, a fort so strong that old writers called it the Troy of the East.

Which forts to visit first from Mumbai and Pune

You do not need to see all twelve at once. From Pune, the easiest beginning is Lohgad, about 65 km away near Lonavala, an easy climb of under an hour from the base village and a favourite first fort for families. Shivneri at Junnar, about 90 km from Pune, is a gentle stepped climb to the birthplace of Maharaj. Rajgad, about 60 km from Pune, is a proper trek and best kept for the fit.

From Mumbai, Lohgad is about 100 km via the expressway, and Raigad, about 170 km away, is the most rewarding single visit because the ropeway removes almost the whole climb. Pratapgad pairs naturally with a Mahabaleshwar holiday, the road takes you almost to the top. Khanderi is a boat excursion off the Alibaug coast.

For the sea forts, base yourself in Malvan for Sindhudurg, a short boat ride from the jetty, and add Vijaydurg on the same coastal run. Suvarnadurg lies off Harnai near Dapoli. Panhala, about 20 km from Kolhapur, has a motorable road and suits elders well. Salher, deep in Nashik district, is the highest fort of the Sahyadri and a serious trek. Gingee is about 160 km from Chennai and about an hour from Puducherry, an easy add on to a Tamil Nadu trip.

Best time to visit

October to February is the season we suggest. The air is cool, the skies are clear, and this is also when the sea is calm for the boat crossings to Sindhudurg and Khanderi.

The monsoon, from June to September, turns the Sahyadri green and forts like Lohgad are at their most beautiful, but the rock is slippery, the mist hides the views, and boats to the sea forts often stop. Go in the rains only if you are steady on your feet.

Summer, from March to May, is hard on the open rock, especially at Gingee in the hot plains of Tamil Nadu. If you must travel then, climb at first light and be down before noon.

How to reach

Mumbai and Pune are the two gateways for the Maharashtra forts, both with international airports and good rail links. Lonavala station serves Lohgad, and the Mumbai Pune expressway puts most of the hill forts within a half day drive of either city.

For the Konkan sea forts, the Konkan Railway runs down the coast, and the drive along the coastal highway from Mumbai towards Malvan is itself a lovely journey of about a day, best broken at Dapoli or Ganpatipule. Kolhapur, with its own airport and railway station, is the base for Panhala. Nashik is the base for Salher, though the fort itself needs a further drive into the Baglan hills and a trek.

Gingee is reached from Chennai, about 160 km, or from Puducherry, about an hour away. The fort is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India and generally stays open from morning to late afternoon; there is an entry fee, please check the current rate on the ASI or Tamil Nadu tourism website.

Tips from our travel experts

Treat every fort as a half day, not an hour. Start early, carry water, a cap and good shoes with grip, and remember that most forts have no shops on top. At Raigad and Pratapgad, local guides are available and worth taking; the stones speak only when someone tells you their story.

Group the forts sensibly. A weekend from Pune covers Lohgad and Shivneri. A long weekend from Mumbai covers Raigad and Pratapgad with a night at Mahabaleshwar. The Konkan sea forts need their own relaxed coastal trip of three to four days.

And a request from our hearts: carry your litter back, do not scratch names on the walls, and speak softly at the samadhi of Maharaj at Raigad. Visit these forts the way you would visit a temple, because for crores of Indians, that is exactly what they are.

For our NRI and OCI travellers

If your family traces its roots to Maharashtra, this yatra will move you more than any monument tour. Many of our overseas guests land in Mumbai or Pune and give us four to five days: Raigad with the ropeway for the grandparents, Lohgad for the children, Pratapgad with a Mahabaleshwar stay, and Shivneri to stand where Maharaj was born.

The ropeway at Raigad and the motorable roads at Pratapgad and Panhala mean that three generations can share this journey together. If you are visiting relatives in Chennai or Puducherry, keep a day for Gingee and see how far the Maratha story travelled. Tell us your fitness levels honestly when you book, and we will match the forts to your family, not the other way around.