Tsomgo Lake (also spelt Changu), Baba Mandir and Nathula Pass sit high above Gangtok, near the border with China, so you need a permit to go.
You cannot get this permit yourself. A registered Sikkim travel agent arranges it for you, along with a registered vehicle and a driver. Nathula Pass is open to Indian travellers only, on certain days of the week, and it is barred to foreign visitors. Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir are open to both, with the right permit.
Who needs a permit
You need a permit for every person on this trip, because it is a protected border area. You cannot drive your own car up. You go in a registered vehicle with a driver, and a registered agent gets the permit in your name. This is the rule for all of these high border places above Gangtok.
The one day trip, in plain words
Most people see these places on one long day from Gangtok. You climb up to Tsomgo Lake, a beautiful glacial lake at about 3,750 metres, then on to Baba Mandir, the shrine to a soldier that pilgrims love. Indian travellers can go higher still to Nathula Pass, on the old Silk Route border, on the days it is open. The air is thin and cold up here, so you take it slowly.
How the permit works, in plain words
The Sikkim Tourism Department and the local administration control entry to these border areas. They do not sell the permit to a walk in tourist. Instead, a registered Sikkim travel agent applies for you, using your identity and your photos, and gets the permit before the trip. That is why you book this through an agent or a tour, not on your own.
For Indian travellers
- You need the permit, arranged by a registered agent, with your identity and passport size photos.
- Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir are open to you with the permit.
- Nathula Pass is open to Indian travellers only, on certain days of the week, and it needs an extra permit that the agent books in advance, because the daily numbers are limited.
For foreign visitors
- The rules are tighter. Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir are open to you with a Protected Area Permit, arranged by a registered agent, and you usually travel in a small group, not alone.
- Nathula Pass is barred to foreign visitors. Please do not plan for it.
- Carry your passport, and give the agent time, because a foreigner permit takes longer. [The exact foreigner rule can change, so confirm it with a registered agent before you travel. Last checked 13 September 2026.]
How to arrange it, step by step
Pick a registered Sikkim travel agent or a tour that includes these places. Give your identity, your passport size photos, and your travel dates, at least a day ahead. Let the agent get the permit and the registered vehicle. Carry the same original identity on the day, because it is checked at the check posts. Start early from Gangtok, because it is a long, high climb.
Season and safety
You can visit through much of the year, but heavy snow can close the road to Tsomgo and Nathula at short notice in winter, and rain can block it in the monsoon. The height is real, so go slowly, drink water, and do not push on if you feel unwell. Nathula opens only on set days, so plan your Gangtok trip around those days if the pass is your dream.
Common mistakes to avoid
- The biggest mistake is thinking you can drive up on your own, because you cannot; you need a registered agent, a permit and a registered vehicle. Foreign visitors often plan for Nathula, which is barred to them. Do not leave the permit to the morning of the trip, because it needs a day. Do not ignore the height; give your body time.
Questions people ask
Can I get the Tsomgo and Nathula permit myself?
No. A registered Sikkim travel agent arranges it, with a registered vehicle.
Can foreigners go to Nathula?
No. Nathula Pass is open to Indian travellers only, on certain days.
Can foreigners see Tsomgo Lake?
Yes, with a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered agent, usually in a small group.
Which days is Nathula open?
Only on set days of the week, with limited daily numbers, so the agent books ahead. Confirm the current days.
Where is it official?
Sikkim Tourism, at sikkimtourism.gov.in, is the state authority; a registered agent handles the permit.