Keoladeo National Park

The story of this place

Keoladeo is a man made wetland, and this is the first thing to understand about it. It was shaped in a natural low lying area and managed as a duck shooting reserve at the end of the 19th century by the rulers of Bharatpur. The shooting has long stopped, and the area was declared a national park in 1982. UNESCO placed it on the World Heritage List in 1985.

Because the wetland is not fully natural, it depends on water that is brought in from a reservoir outside the park, traditionally the Ajan Bandh. A well planned system of small dams and channels holds water at different depths, and this is exactly what so many kinds of birds need. The park is managed by the Rajasthan Forest Department, with help from the villages around it.

The park sits on the Central Asian flyway, the great highway in the sky along which birds travel. In winter, large numbers of ducks, geese, waders and other water birds come down this flyway and rest here. Keoladeo was once the only known wintering ground in India for the critically endangered Siberian crane, though these cranes have not been recorded here in recent years. That loss is real, and we tell you honestly, but the park is still alive with birds every winter.

What you will see

Keoladeo is a mosaic of shallow wetlands, grasslands and woodland, all packed into a fairly small area of about 29 square kilometres. This mix is the secret of the place. In a short walk you pass open water, reed beds and dry forest, and each holds different birds.

According to UNESCO, some 375 bird species have been recorded here. In the breeding season the park forms one of the most spectacular heronries in the region, where herons, ibises, cormorants, spoonbills and storks nest together in large numbers in a good year. In winter you may see many kinds of ducks and geese, birds of prey circling above, and waders feeding at the water edge.

This is not only a bird park. You will also see spotted deer, nilgai, and if you are lucky the shy fishing cat or a python resting in the winter sun. Carry binoculars if you have them, walk slowly, and let the birds come into view. The quiet itself is part of the experience.

Best time to visit

The park is open through the year, but the two seasons feel very different. Winter, from about November to February, is the time of the migratory birds. This is the classic Keoladeo season, when birds arrive from Central Asia, Siberia and beyond, and the wetlands are full. October and March are also pleasant and rewarding.

The monsoon and the months just after, from July to September, are the breeding season for the resident water birds, when the heronry is at its busiest and the park is lush and green. The summer months of April to June are very hot and many wetlands shrink, so most bird lovers choose the cooler months.

Early morning and late afternoon are the best hours of any day. The birds are most active then, the light is soft, and the heat is gentle. Give the park an early start.

How to explore the park

Keoladeo is explored slowly and quietly, and this is part of its charm. Private cars and motor vehicles are not allowed inside beyond the entry area, which keeps the park calm and clean.

You can walk the main path, hire a bicycle, or take a cycle rickshaw. The cycle rickshaws here are special. The rickshaw pullers are trained local guides, recognised by the park, and many of them know the birds and their calls very well. Riding with one of them, you get both a comfortable seat and a knowledgeable guide who will stop and point out birds you would never have spotted on your own. This system also gives honest work to the villages around the park, so we are always happy to suggest it.

In a year of good water, boats are also available on some stretches, which bring you close to the birds without disturbing them. A licensed naturalist guide can be arranged at the gate, and for a serious bird lover this is money well spent.

How to reach

Bharatpur is very easy to reach, and this is one more reason we love adding it to a trip. The nearest railway station is Bharatpur Junction, only about 5 to 6 km from the park, with trains from Delhi and many other cities. The nearest airport is at Agra, about 55 km away, while Delhi and Jaipur airports are the larger gateways at roughly 220 km and 185 km.

The best part is how close Keoladeo is to two of India's greatest sights. Agra, with the Taj Mahal, is about 55 km away, and Fatehpur Sikri is only about 20 km away. This means you can easily join Keoladeo with the Golden Triangle. A common and lovely plan is to see the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, stop at Fatehpur Sikri on the way, and reach Bharatpur for an early morning at the birds the next day. Your Way to India consultant will arrange the car and the timing.

Tips from our travel experts

Come in the morning if you can. Carry binoculars, a hat, water and a camera with a good zoom. Wear neutral colours, not bright ones, so the birds stay calm near you. There is an entry fee, with different rates for Indian and foreign visitors, and small charges for a cycle rickshaw, bicycle, guide or boat. Rates change from time to time, so please check the current rate at the gate or ask your consultant.

Go slowly and speak softly. Keoladeo rewards patience more than speed. Two to three hours give you a good visit, but true bird lovers can happily spend a full morning and an evening here.

Keep the park clean, do not feed the birds or animals, and stay on the paths. If you are travelling with children, the cycle rickshaw ride keeps them happy while you watch the birds.

For our NRI and OCI travellers

Bharatpur fits beautifully into a first India trip. If you are already visiting Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, adding one night at Bharatpur gives you a completely different, peaceful day among nature, without adding a long journey.

If you are bringing your parents, the cycle rickshaw is a gentle and comfortable way for them to enjoy the park without a long walk. Foreign passport holders pay the foreign national rate at the gate, and OCI card holders should carry their card, as staff will guide you as per the current rule. Winter mornings can be cold and misty, so carry a warm layer even though Rajasthan feels warm by day.